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Excalibur 21


rdatelle

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Hi everyone, I'm back for a little while. Surgery went well and I'm home taking it easy for a week or so. I think I mentioned that I will be moving from Georgia to Florida around January. Selling off a lot of my tools so I don't have to cart them with me. I already sold my DeWalt 788 and now I'm thinking about selling my Excalibur 21 inch. I thinking on maybe buying the new Pegus from Bearwoods when I get to Florida. Wondering what you all think I could get for it. It comes with the stand, foot switch, light and I also put the new pegus blocks on it. I also have the chair i'll throw in with it. It's around three years old. It's all a little dusty  and I didn't have time to wipe everything off. I thought maybe $500 or more. Thanks for all your input, Ralph.

ex21.jpg

ex211.jpg

chair.jpg

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Now, If you were in Western Australia, I'd snap it up at $500.
Before you purchase you Pegas from Bear Woods try @Denny Knappen he is a Pegas distributor.
I've got one more move ahead of me and hopefully that will my last. Just looking in my shed makes me shudder. ;)

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52 minutes ago, Denny Knappen said:

Thanks for the vote of confidence.  I would be happy to give a quote but only by PM or email.

 

52 minutes ago, Denny Knappen said:

Thanks for the vote of confidence.  I would be happy to give a quote but only by PM or email.

Thanks Denny, I'll do that. I didn't know you sold those. I learn something new everyday. I'll message you. Thanks, Ralph.

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I'm assuming you're talking about the table top? I've thought about re-painting mine.. Yours looks much more worn than mine does.. I assume you must have several hours on the machine..

If I was going to actually re-paint mine I would suggest taking the table off since it's only 4 screws.. this way you're not getting over spray on the rest of the saw.. If I do mine with paint I'll be using a automotive Urethane base coat clear coat on it.. Real durable stuff... Or a single stage Urethane... If I was just cleaning it up to sell then I would try matching the color as best as you can and then use a quality spray can of paint.. NOT rust-o-lium either.. as that stuff take a long time to cure good and solid.. it's more of a cheap oil base paint...but doesn't hold up real well.. I'd go with Dupi-color or Krylon enamel.. 

Not cheap but some auto paint supply stores will mix up a single stage Urethane and put it into a spray can for you.. One can should coat it several times.. keep it stored in a cool dry place and it might last for a long time.. Thing with Urethane paints is it has a catylist / activator and once it's mixed.. you don't have forever to hold onto it and use a will.. Should also wear quality respirator with these types of paints.. 

I had also thought about asking a powder coat place what it would cost.. that would hold up quite a long time too..   

 

If you do decide to spray it.. you should use a de-waxing solvent on it.. especially if you've waxed it.. then sand it down.. I'd use 400 grit wet sanding paper and then follow up with a 600 grit wet sanding paper.. Drop of dish soap in the bucket of water will help the sandpaper last longer and also helps remove any contaminants .   

Edited by kmmcrafts
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About that table top,  whenever I see that, I know the user has some hours under his belt, and their reputation in my mind skyrockets.

Using that when judging how much a used EX has been used, is very handy.  Unless they had it covered, a pristine EX table would be a good indicator of low hours.  Secondly, I would look at it's country of origin, I wouldn't pay anything for the chinese version, life is too short.

It doesn't hurt to put it on the market for $500, you can always come down if it doesn't sell.  It's really asking $400 for the saw, and $100 for the upgrades, which sounds better when worded that way.

 

 

Edited by hotshot
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3 minutes ago, munzieb said:

I had thought about having my top powder coated because it is a very hard finish but the local company closed down. Oh well...

You might check into having it epoxy coated.. That is ( I believe ) stronger than powder coat.. also believe that is what the Pegas table has on it..

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On 7/29/2020 at 4:25 PM, kmmcrafts said:

I'm assuming you're talking about the table top? I've thought about re-painting mine.. Yours looks much more worn than mine does.. I assume you must have several hours on the machine..

If I was going to actually re-paint mine I would suggest taking the table off since it's only 4 screws.. this way you're not getting over spray on the rest of the saw.. If I do mine with paint I'll be using a automotive Urethane base coat clear coat on it.. Real durable stuff... Or a single stage Urethane... If I was just cleaning it up to sell then I would try matching the color as best as you can and then use a quality spray can of paint.. NOT rust-o-lium either.. as that stuff take a long time to cure good and solid.. it's more of a cheap oil base paint...but doesn't hold up real well.. I'd go with Dupi-color or Krylon enamel.. 

Not cheap but some auto paint supply stores will mix up a single stage Urethane and put it into a spray can for you.. One can should coat it several times.. keep it stored in a cool dry place and it might last for a long time.. Thing with Urethane paints is it has a catylist / activator and once it's mixed.. you don't have forever to hold onto it and use a will.. Should also wear quality respirator with these types of paints.. 

I had also thought about asking a powder coat place what it would cost.. that would hold up quite a long time too..   

 

If you do decide to spray it.. you should use a de-waxing solvent on it.. especially if you've waxed it.. then sand it down.. I'd use 400 grit wet sanding paper and then follow up with a 600 grit wet sanding paper.. Drop of dish soap in the bucket of water will help the sandpaper last longer and also helps remove any contaminants .   

Thanks kevin, I'll check that out or maybe just sell it the way it is.

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On 7/29/2020 at 4:29 PM, hotshot said:

About that table top,  whenever I see that, I know the user has some hours under his belt, and their reputation in my mind skyrockets.

Using that when judging how much a used EX has been used, is very handy.  Unless they had it covered, a pristine EX table would be a good indicator of low hours.  Secondly, I would look at it's country of origin, I wouldn't pay anything for the chinese version, life is too short.

It doesn't hurt to put it on the market for $500, you can always come down if it doesn't sell.  It's really asking $400 for the saw, and $100 for the upgrades, which sounds better when worded that way.

 

 

Thanks Randy. Not sure if I should just leave it the way it is.

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3 hours ago, rdatelle said:

Thanks kevin, I'll check that out or maybe just sell it the way it is.

Another thing I should have mentioned... paint drying times.. A typical spray can of paint doesn't have any catylist / activator to speed up the "full" curing time.. so those paints typically take either 30, 60, or 90 days to fully cure.. While it dries to the touch and most cases is fine for painting certain things.. But i would think the paint would be way to soft to "try to scroll on it" until it has cured completely.. otherwise a good chance the paint will scratch off quite quickly.. A paint with a catylist would be much faster to cure more durable etc etc... But if you're just selling it... does that really matter?  Maybe the magnetic sheet is a better way to go with it...or just leave it as is..

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20 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Another thing I should have mentioned... paint drying times.. A typical spray can of paint doesn't have any catylist / activator to speed up the "full" curing time.. so those paints typically take either 30, 60, or 90 days to fully cure.. While it dries to the touch and most cases is fine for painting certain things.. But i would think the paint would be way to soft to "try to scroll on it" until it has cured completely.. otherwise a good chance the paint will scratch off quite quickly.. A paint with a catylist would be much faster to cure more durable etc etc... But if you're just selling it... does that really matter?  Maybe the magnetic sheet is a better way to go with it...or just leave it as is..

Your right kev, I might just leave it the way it is.

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On 7/27/2020 at 9:28 AM, Denny Knappen said:

Thanks for the vote of confidence.  I would be happy to give a quote but only by PM or email.

After reading in here his aclaim, I followed his instructions and will now await my new Pegus w/stand in about a week.

As I told Denny, assuming Covid-19 doesn't claim me as its victim, I may still have a few more years of scrolling in me.  So I decided to spend my childrens inheritance and get a saw that, I hope, is better than the  Porter Cable Scrollsaw I purchased from Lowes.  The PC does the job but the blade has a tndency to jump around a lot and the whole thing vibrates pretty badly.  I'll put it up on a local selling site and see if a can get a few of my dollars back.   I know the value of good tools so it was a no brainer.

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51 minutes ago, FrankEV said:

After reading in here his aclaim, I followed his instructions and will now await my new Pegus w/stand in about a week.

As I told Denny, assuming Covid-19 doesn't claim me as its victim, I may still have a few more years of scrolling in me.  So I decided to spend my childrens inheritance and get a saw that, I hope, is better than the  Porter Cable Scrollsaw I purchased from Lowes.  The PC does the job but the blade has a tndency to jump around a lot and the whole thing vibrates pretty badly.  I'll put it up on a local selling site and see if a can get a few of my dollars back.   I know the value of good tools so it was a no brainer.

FrankEV, you are going to LOVE your new saw. I don't have a Pegas but if they are anything like my Excaliburs, you won't be disappointed. Enjoy your new toy and be sure to post some pics of your work. We all love pics.

 

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