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Advice please


wombatie

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I am doing a LARGE cutting at the moment and it looks as if I will have to use spiral blades on some of it. Now I must confess I have only tried them once and I hated them, so I have little to no experience with them. If you have any advice on using spirals please let me know, I need all the help I can get. Thanks

 

Marg

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AAh! Now your talking my language!Spirals!Make them over tight ,and your rate of speed cutting in all directions would be about half or less than when useing a straight blade.The benefits of useing spirals are vast.Their getting used to cutting with them is like useing a toy called" etch a sketch"where your useing two knobs to draw a picture on a slate.I too could have never been convinced that spirals were the cadillac of blades till i heard about the proper use of them from a member.The blade must be extra tight .When it's loose it bends like a rubber band and breaks and you have no control following a line.Straight line cuts are even slower as the blade wants to follow any devient in grain of wood direction.Practice makes perfect.Practice with a thick spiral to get a good feel of it's caracteristics. :)

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Yep! Slow feed is the tip with spirals. Also a good magnifier helps.

Since you say that you have to cut a "big" piece here is an idea that I have used for that.

For some of the needed cutting you cannot reach because of the limit of your table throat I have put the straight blade in backwards and finished that way.

 

Once I had to make a big sign for a bar with their logo and name. It was 3ft X 2ft. and this is how I did it.

 

John

 

Old Dust

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I use spirals alot.

Since they cut in all directions, it is harder to follow a straight line.

You really can't get in "a grove" with them, like a standard blade, since they respond to pressure in any direction.

With practice, it is possible to cut almost as straight as standard, but its really a hand/mind/eye coordination type of thing.

I usually have both corners of a piece, with my thumbs on the bottom and fingers on the side.

Thumb pressure feeds the piece, and can also be used for very small course adjustments. Fingers are for over all direction, and larger course adjustments.

This allows me to apply subtle pressure in any direction needed - If I sense I'm veering off to the right, i can apply pressure with the opposite hand to get it back on course.

You have to keep an eagle eye on progress, and like with standard blades, anticipate turns ans curves before they come.

When starting a new direction, its best to go very slow, and let the blade cut a little notch until you are sure you are feeding it the right way to stay on line.

Though not always necessary, turning a piece from time to time can help with accuracy, as I find it easier to stay on line going top to bottom than left to right.

 

I have found that spirals don't cut well in all directions if you are cutting thick wood, say 3/4 and up.

They cut much better feeding the wood away from you than they do if you pull it towards you. Haven't figured out why this is so, but it is so.

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Thanks guys for all the advice. Unfortunately I don't have time to practise too much. What I have been doing so far is going so far one way and then going back on itself and then going down the other cutting it off and then turning the whole thing around and starting from the opposite end, sounds complicated I know but so far it working. Fingers crossed. I will take photos when its finished.

 

Marg

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Thanks guys for all the advice. Unfortunately I don't have time to practise too much. What I have been doing so far is going so far one way and then going back on itself and then going down the other cutting it off and then turning the whole thing around and starting from the opposite end, sounds complicated I know but so far it working. Fingers crossed. I will take photos when its finished.

 

Marg

 

 

been there done that. kind of a pain in the butt however it does work

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