Sinister1957 Posted August 27, 2020 Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 Hi All I am relatively new at scroll sawing. I am looking to cut out chess pieces . I am using walnut and curly maple ... 1.5" thick ...I think I read someone used 5 blades to cut one piece is that typical. I am using Flying Dutchman UR7 (just ordered polar#7 ..I see they where recommended by some on forum) . I can cut out a 3.5 inch rook with one blade with very little burn marks on walnut a bit more on maple. Results are pretty good, but I think I can do a little better, if I slow it down a bit. Any other pointers would be appreciated. Thank you Anthony OCtoolguy and amazingkevin 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted August 27, 2020 Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 You might like the Polar blades a little better than the UR for compound cutting. Lots of variables in how many blades it takes to cut a piece. One is the hardness of the material being cut. Another is the blade being used. Add in technique, blade speed, feed rate and there are any number of reasons why one could break a lot of blades. Ultimately, if you are having success with what you are doing, then no real reason to change anything. Practice will yield consistent and improved results. OCtoolguy, WayneMahler and amazingkevin 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted August 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 Bill Yes I am waiting for polar blades before I make any more attempts. I am interested in seeing the difference. Speaking of blades I had an entry level Band saw that I was about to throw out the window. Before doing so I purchased an olson blade ..Hell, it was a night and day difference. I actually use my band saw now. Only issue is it cuts to about 3.75 I wish it was 6" only reason I would replace it now. amazingkevin and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted August 27, 2020 Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 I cut a set out of walnut an popular. Used Pegas MG # 5. It has been awhile but I think I was able to cut 4 pieces with one blade. RabidAlien, Dave Monk, Gonzo and 6 others 7 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted August 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 Trackman Looks great.. I thought I might be a little stingy with my blade usage. I must have misread the statement about 5 - 7 blades for one piece, perhaps it was that many for whole set. The set I am working on is similar to yours (classic set from a book of 15 chess sets) mainly for the practice. I would also like to make a more modern set with some inlay. amazingkevin and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted August 27, 2020 Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 FD UR is a reverse blade and that is what is causing the burning. A blade like FD Polar is not reverse and cleans out the kerf with less burning. I used FD Polar for years on compound cutting. I now use Pegas Skip blades, especially number 7. amazingkevin, OCtoolguy and John B 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted August 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 30 minutes ago, Denny Knappen said: FD UR is a reverse blade and that is what is causing the burning. A blade like FD Polar is not reverse and cleans out the kerf with less burning. I used FD Polar for years on compound cutting. I now use Pegas Skip blades, especially number 7. Great ..I figure I am about 80% there with burning I am about 90% without. The new blades and a little more technique and I should be OK OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted August 27, 2020 Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 To help eliminate burning, I use clear packing tape on top of the pattern and all sides of the blank. OCtoolguy and John B 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 5 hours ago, dgman said: To help eliminate burning, I use clear packing tape on top of the pattern and all sides of the blank. I use blue tape under the pattern and when I finish the first side I reinforce the blank with packing tape John B and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomanydogs Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 I use two side pieces of thin wood and two clamps. I find that if I tape after making cuts unless you clear all the saw dust it always seems to get under the packing tape. amazingkevin, OCtoolguy and ChelCass 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 12 hours ago, Tomanydogs said: I use two side pieces of thin wood and two clamps. I find that if I tape after making cuts unless you clear all the saw dust it always seems to get under the packing tape. Great idea using the clamps. Tomanydogs and amazingkevin 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandaideman Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 think you are on your way. I just cut one each of pawn K, Q, Bishop and rook. They are from a pattern about 2 Years ago scroll saw woodworking and crafts issue 74 by Clayton Meyers. They just looked like fun and are but had to Practice using a soft wood Pine to get the technique figured out. But now may try harder wood. Other things to do have been covered here by the responses. PS: there is a pattern for a SeaPlane in the same Magazine fun to make with the kids. amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 On 8/28/2020 at 5:02 AM, Tomanydogs said: I use two side pieces of thin wood and two clamps. I find that if I tape after making cuts unless you clear all the saw dust it always seems to get under the packing tape. I like this idea. I started with the two pieces of wood and threaded rod thing because I had it already. That didn't work so well because I found it hard to get and keep even pressure. Next, I went to using small bar clamps. Bar clamps are what is pictured in the instructions I received with some birdhouse patterns. The bar clamps worked much better. However, I still needed to keep tightening them as I cut, but I could adjust them individually. Using spring clamps should eliminate adjusting as I cut completely. I have a bunch of Bessy spring clamps I got very cheap a few years ago. amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Cover the piece you are cutting with clear packaging tape, Eliminates the burn marks. amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 3 hours ago, BadBob said: I like this idea. I started with the two pieces of wood and threaded rod thing because I had it already. That didn't work so well because I found it hard to get and keep even pressure. Next, I went to using small bar clamps. Bar clamps are what is pictured in the instructions I received with some birdhouse patterns. The bar clamps worked much better. However, I still needed to keep tightening them as I cut, but I could adjust them individually. Using spring clamps should eliminate adjusting as I cut completely. I have a bunch of Bessy spring clamps I got very cheap a few years ago. Just have to be careful that the spring clamps don't generate enough pressure to close the kerf too much and pinch the blade, creating more friction and heat. amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted August 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 I use two pieces of wood with threaded rod I make it real tight. After reading some of the responses here, I am wondering if I might be making it to tight and perhaps pinching the blade. I am not sure if that even makes sense because there is no more pressure added when wood is cut away. but maybe I am compressing it too much. amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodrush Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 On 8/27/2020 at 4:51 PM, Denny Knappen said: FD UR is a reverse blade and that is what is causing the burning. A blade like FD Polar is not reverse and cleans out the kerf with less burning. I used FD Polar for years on compound cutting. I now use Pegas Skip blades, especially number 7. Pegas skips have always been my go to blade amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 (edited) I haven't finished all the pieces or did a final sanding and finish..but I am pretty happy with my progress Edited September 1, 2020 by Sinister1957 BTW using polar FD 7 and no burn marks RabidAlien, amazingkevin, preprius and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 You are doing an exceptional job so far! Keep it up! Sinister1957 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 14 minutes ago, dgman said: You are doing an exceptional job so far! Keep it up! dgman Thank you.. I find Scroll sawing produces some impressive results even with my limited talent even though I am using templates created by others I find it quite satisfying seeing a piece come to life .. I wish I was artistic and talented enough to produce my own original stuff. amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 I started a chess set years ago and never got it finished. My kids kept running off with the pieces. amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted September 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2020 Hi.. Just a little update finished cutting all the pieces including an extra queen..need to finish with a light sanding and I guess tung oil and shellac..I am pretty happy with the way it is coming out so far ..this is only my third scroll saw project ..I did a gear clock a simple letter "B" one of Steve goods and this....any suggestions on the easiest finish ...This is the part I have no patience for.. amazingkevin and JimErn 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted September 7, 2020 Report Share Posted September 7, 2020 From were I set you did a bang up job! I just dipped mine in 50/50 mix. Getting a even coat on these won’t be easy. PS why the extra queen, planning on cheating? LOL amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister1957 Posted September 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, trackman said: From were I set you did a bang up job! I just dipped mine in 50/50 mix. Getting a even coat on these won’t be easy. PS why the extra queen, planning on cheating? LOL used some tung oil on a few test pieces that part was easy enough putting on the shellac or lacquer is a pain...what did you use in your 50/50 dip... Don't you get an extra queen when a pawn reaches other side.. PS..thanks for the compliment ☺ Edited September 8, 2020 by Sinister1957 amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Great looking cutting. I never learned chess. I may have to scroll checker pieces. You have done very well! amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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