Anyone use Mineral oil on their projects?

[new2woodwrk]

I've started using Mineral oil on some projects, specifically puzzles and stand up pieces (puzzles not cut out completely).

Problem is I'm not sure how long to soak or how many times to dip the project.

I dipped a few yesterday, and they seem to have dried overnight. I was under the impression they would not dry that quickly.

Thoughts?

Thanks as always in advance

[kmmcrafts]

Mineral oil never does dry.. It just soaks into the wood or evaporates..  I do not use mineral oil by itself for that reason..  The problem with mineral oil in my opinion is that at any given time it can sweat back out of the wood pores during heat or humidity changes.. as a experiment take your so called dry piece and throw some heat on it with a hair drier or heat gun see if it starts leaking and puddling up beads of oil from out of the woods grain... This is why I use Danish oil... it is designed to be a finish and has a small amount of polyurethane in it to sort of put a very thin protective film over the wood.. You'll get the same grain popping oil finish look but one that is designed to be a finish with a protective film . 

[BadBob]

Pure mineral oil doesn't work for me. Dipping is far to messy. The oil puddles in the tight places and I have found only two ways to get the oil out. I can blow it out with compressed air (messy), or put in my oven on warm. In the oven, the oil thins and gets absorbed better or drips off. The smoke point of mineral oil is low, and it burns. So be careful if you try this.

In my experience, paint cures faster than mineral oil soaks in. Shellac if fast but has its issues.

Butcher block finish works better, but you are paying a lot of money for mineral oil with a bit of wax in it. Better to make your own. That is what I do. I mix mineral oil with beeswax and just a bit of carnauba wax. I'm still experimenting.

I don't dip anything except the ends of axles for my toys.

 

[Roberta Moreton]

I use mineral oil on things that touch food like utensils, trivets, cutting boards. I also use it for things that touch small children like puzzles and rattles. It is easy to replenish as needed. 

[OzarkSawdust]

Yup...as one of Iggy's "Puzzle Zombies" I use food grade mineral oil on all my puzzles. I'll get 3-4 cut out, give them about a 5 second dip, and place them on a wire cookie rack over a pan. I have a plastic container with a lid that I keep the oil in. Don't remember the exact size but it's big enough to dip one puzzle, then the lid goes on. It has a handle on each side that flips up and locks the lid on...very important LOL.

I originally slotted 3 days sitting, but later found it "dried" sooner. If I turned it over after a day the oil that was sitting on the wire rack was now on top and finished by the second day. Also if I needed to speed it up for a show I would get a roll of the blue shop towels and lay the puzzle on it after an overnight in the rack. These blue towels are designed to soak up oil and grease in mechanic shops, so they pull the excess oil off very well. I might note that these puzzles are the only thing I use mineral oil on. Almost forgot, I do use it on Trivets although I haven't don any this year. 

I made and sold just over 100 of these puzzles at craft shows last season (Dec - Mar) while we were in south TX Rio Grande Valley, and have made a bunch this summer to take down this season as stock. So I can spend less time working and more time having fun with friends and going to Mexico! 

I tried to answer you with a bunch, maybe too much, info on how I do puzzles. If you really want to know... message Iguanadon aka. Iggy. He's the Jedi Master of the animal puzzles! He does hundreds every year and has quite a following in his area.  He is very successful so why should I "reinvent the wheel"? 

OK...I'll shut up now  

 

Edited September 6, 2020 by OzarkSawdust

[new2woodwrk]

3 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Mineral oil never does dry.. It just soaks into the wood or evaporates..  I do not use mineral oil by itself for that reason..  The problem with mineral oil in my opinion is that at any given time it can sweat back out of the wood pores during heat or humidity changes.. as a experiment take your so called dry piece and throw some heat on it with a hair drier or heat gun see if it starts leaking and puddling up beads of oil from out of the woods grain... This is why I use Danish oil... it is designed to be a finish and has a small amount of polyurethane in it to sort of put a very thin protective film over the wood.. You'll get the same grain popping oil finish look but one that is designed to be a finish with a protective film . 

Thanks,

Problem is Danish Oil is a lot more expensive.

I think also, certain types are not child safe. At least I read an article and that was what I gathered from the inference.

[dgman]

It is never recommended to use products that are not designed as a finish to be used as a finish. Mineral oil is not designed as a finish. It does nothing to seal and protect the wood. And as mentioned, mineral oil never fully dries. It might be appropriate for cutting boards and utensils, but that’s it. Any product designed as a finish will become food and child safe once fully cured, not necessarily dry, but cured. In my opinion, any project that will be handled must have a topcoat. Wood will soak in fingerprints and skin oils and dust and dirt if not topcoated. Appropriate topcoats include Lacquer, shellac and Polly. 
Other products some folks use as a finish, but are not designed as a finish are orange oil and lemon oil. These products are designed as cleaners and polish’s.

For me, using an oil is used to bring out the natural color and grain of the wood. Since I use mostly hardwoods, using an oil greatly enhances the beauty of woods like Walnut, Cherry, Oaks and even Maple, but most hardwoods are enhanced.

My procedure is as follows. I soak all my scroll saw projects in a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. The oil brings out the natural color and grain of the wood, and the mineral spirits thins out the oil, allowing it to flow easily around the project, and acts as a drier. I use an on old metal baking pan for this. I let it soak for a few minutes. Then, I remove the project and wipe off the excess oil with blue shop towels. I set them on baking cooling racks to dry. After the oil dries, usually in 24-36 hours, I apply Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. Usually two or three coats. The lacquer dries fast. Depending on humidity, I can apply two or three coats in about an hour. After the lacquer is dry, if it has dust nubs, I’ll rub out the finish with a folded piece of brown paper bag. It’s like using 2400 grit sand paper. I store the oil mix in an old glass mason jar.
 

[OzarkSawdust]

1 hour ago, dgman said:

It is never recommended to use products that are not designed as a finish to be used as a finish. Mineral oil is not designed as a finish. It does nothing to seal and protect the wood. And as mentioned, mineral oil never fully dries. It might be appropriate for cutting boards and utensils, but that’s it. Any product designed as a finish will become food and child safe once fully cured, not necessarily dry, but cured. In my opinion, any project that will be handled must have a topcoat. Wood will soak in fingerprints and skin oils and dust and dirt if not topcoated. Appropriate topcoats include Lacquer, shellac and Polly. 
Other products some folks use as a finish, but are not designed as a finish are orange oil and lemon oil. These products are designed as cleaners and polish’s.

For me, using an oil is used to bring out the natural color and grain of the wood. Since I use mostly hardwoods, using an oil greatly enhances the beauty of woods like Walnut, Cherry, Oaks and even Maple, but most hardwoods are enhanced.

My procedure is as follows. I soak all my scroll saw projects in a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. The oil brings out the natural color and grain of the wood, and the mineral spirits thins out the oil, allowing it to flow easily around the project, and acts as a drier. I use an on old metal baking pan for this. I let it soak for a few minutes. Then, I remove the project and wipe off the excess oil with blue shop towels. I set them on baking cooling racks to dry. After the oil dries, usually in 24-36 hours, I apply Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. Usually two or three coats. The lacquer dries fast. Depending on humidity, I can apply two or three coats in about an hour. After the lacquer is dry, if it has dust nubs, I’ll rub out the finish with a folded piece of brown paper bag. It’s like using 2400 grit sand paper. I store the oil mix in an old glass mason jar.
 

Dan, I saw someone mention the 50/50 bath before. But they said NOT the "green" mineral spirits...?? What's that all about?

[dgman]

1 hour ago, OzarkSawdust said:

Dan, I saw someone mention the 50/50 bath before. But they said NOT the "green" mineral spirits...?? What's that all about?

Some stores sell a product that is more environmentally friendly. It’s fine for cleaning paint brushes and accessories after using oil based finishing products like Polly Or lacquer. It’s is milky and not suitable for mixing with oil based finishes. Here in California, we couldn’t buy regular mineral spirits for awhile. In the County I live in (Ventura Co.), I can now find it at any hardware store. Ray @octoolguy say he can’t find it where he lives (Orange Co.). Just make sure it doesn’t say “green”  On the label. If you can’t find regular mineral spirits, you can order it from Amazon.

[kmmcrafts]

5 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

Thanks,

Problem is Danish Oil is a lot more expensive.

I think also, certain types are not child safe. At least I read an article and that was what I gathered from the inference.

I don't know this for fact... it's only what i have read on various sites... including toy making sites..

All wood finishes and paints sold in the USA is technically child safe once fully cured...

I use the Danish oil rather than a top coat for puzzles because Danish oil has a small amount of polyurethane in it to help protect the wood... technically it's quite a process to get a top coat on all sides of the puzzle pieces... and there is no real simple solution to finishing / sealing them.. The Danish oil is a better choice ( matter of opinion I suppose ) than mineral oil because it does have the small amount of poly to help protect and offer a slight amount of sealing.. not very much poly though so this sealing is minimal amounts but better than just oil IMO...

While you have no control over what a person that buys the puzzle  does with it.. I personally wouldn't recommend someone giving them to children small enough that is still putting things in their mouths anyway.. Each of my puzzles has a Choking Warning card in it so they shouldn't be giving them to small children anyway..  

 

 

[kywoodmaster]

I will add that in my area the "green" mineral spirits is labeled as low VOC or environmentally friendly. If you open it and it don't smell really strong it is the wrong one!!!!!

 

[BadBob]

13 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I personally wouldn't recommend someone giving them to children small enough that is still putting things in their mouths anyway.. Each of my puzzles has a Choking Warning card in it so they shouldn't be giving them to small children anyway..  

I put a label on the invoice of each package I send out and also have this warning in my listing description.

 

[BadBob]

Please don't take my word for it. Do your research and vet your sources.

Wood has toxins in it. Some are very bad for humans, and some are not so bad, but they all have toxins.

Mineral oil has issues too. I did a bit of research into mineral oil, not random people on the internet but actual research papers. Mineral oils are absorbed through your skin and can cause health issues. Unfortunately, most, if not all, of the information is behind a money wall where you have to pay to read the research. Mineral oil is a liquid byproduct of refining crude oil to make gasoline and other petroleum products.

As far as I know, it is illegal to sell finishes in the US that are toxic when cured and has been for many years. Dry is not cured. Some oil-based finishes can take weeks or months to cure.

Polyurethane is essentially a plastic coating. Is there a difference between a wood toy coated with polyurethane and a toy made from som mysterious injection molded plastic.

My definition of nontoxic is that it means that if you touch it or ingest it, you will not need to be rushed to the emergency room. However, some years later, you may be diagnosed with some debilitating disease caused by contact with this substance.

Toxins are all around us. I have beans in my garden that, if eaten raw, will make you ill and may kill you.

Unfortunately, if you are selling, many of your customers believe in myths, not facts. I am slowly tracking down all mentions of toxins in my shop listing and removing them. I tell them what the finish is, and they decide. If they ask about it, I will give them my opinion.

Edited September 8, 2020 by BadBob

[GusGustin]

So .. the mineral oil .. where is a good place to get that stuff ?

[Gonzo]

5 minutes ago, GusGustin said:

So .. the mineral oil .. where is a good place to get that stuff ?

Drug store

[dgman]

8 minutes ago, GusGustin said:

So .. the mineral oil .. where is a good place to get that stuff ?

Think about it, if you have to go to the drugstore for a wood finish, there is something wrong there!

[kmmcrafts]

15 minutes ago, GusGustin said:

So .. the mineral oil .. where is a good place to get that stuff ?

I buy it at Walmart.. it's usually in the stomach medicine areas.. Most all stores that sell medicine will probably have it. 

I use it to make butcher block wax with it.. by melting beeswax in with it to create a paste like wax treatment for cutting boards etc.. I used to use the mix s a finish for a few years.. I would never recommend just plain old mineral oil as a finish but folks do it and I guess it works for the short time frame to get rid of them.. It can and will dry out and leave the wood as if there is not finish over a period of time...

[new2woodwrk]

1 hour ago, GusGustin said:

So .. the mineral oil .. where is a good place to get that stuff ?

I just bought food grade on Amazon

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNI1JI0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[kmmcrafts]

I thought I read somewhere that all mineral oil was food grade? 

FYI Baby oil is nothing more than just mineral oil with the baby scent added to it.. 

[John B]

I never use oils as a finish, as they offer non, if any; protection to the item. In particular toys as they are handled, played with and get dirty. You can't clean an item if it does not have a proper protective finish.

[new2woodwrk]

8 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I thought I read somewhere that all mineral oil was food grade? 

FYI Baby oil is nothing more than just mineral oil with the baby scent added to it.. 

From what I've read there is a slight difference: https://bizfluent.com/info-12044319-differences-between-food-grade-pharmaceutical-grade-mineral-oil.html

 

[OzarkSawdust]

On 9/7/2020 at 7:19 AM, BadBob said:

Please don't take my word for it. Do your research and vet your sources.

Wood has toxins in it. Some are very bad for humans, and some are not so bad, but they all have toxins.

Mineral oil has issues too. I did a bit of research into mineral oil, not random people on the internet but actual research papers. Mineral oils are absorbed through your skin and can cause health issues. Unfortunately, most, if not all, of the information is behind a money wall where you have to pay to read the research. Mineral oil is a liquid byproduct of refining crude oil to make gasoline and other petroleum products.

As far as I know, it is illegal to sell finishes in the US that are toxic when cured and has been for many years. Dry is not cured. Some oil-based finishes can take weeks or months to cure.

Polyurethane is essentially a plastic coating. Is there a difference between a wood toy coated with polyurethane and a toy made from som mysterious injection molded plastic.

My definition of nontoxic is that it means that if you touch it or ingest it, you will not need to be rushed to the emergency room. However, some years later, you may be diagnosed with some debilitating disease caused by contact with this substance.

Toxins are all around us. I have beans in my garden that, if eaten raw, will make you ill and may kill you.

Unfortunately, if you are selling, many of your customers believe in myths, not facts. I am slowly tracking down all mentions of toxins in my shop listing and removing them. I tell them what the finish is, and they decide. If they ask about it, I will give them my opinion.

"Mineral oil has issues too. I did a bit of research into mineral oil, not random people on the internet but actual research papers. Mineral oils are absorbed through your skin and can cause health issues. Unfortunately, most, if not all, of the information is behind a money wall where you have to pay to read the research. Mineral oil is a liquid byproduct of refining crude oil to make gasoline and other petroleum products."

Mineral oil is sold in most stores as a natural laxative. It is meant to be taken internally for it to work, although I've never tried using it that way...LOL.

It's also in cosmetics, baby oil, massage oil, that's all I'm going to tell about that use...LOL,  and a host of other things in everyday life. Maybe there's an "industrial mineral oil" also that's not as refined ??? I'm not worried about the mineral oil itself, if I had to take a tablespoon of something in the shop I put on wood....that would be better than lacquer or shellac!

You can get a pint of mineral oil at Walmart for $1.98...at Home Depot Watco Danish Oil is $8.98. If you're doing one or two or a few it doesn't matter. When making a hundred to two hundred puzzles it does , at least to me.

Walgreens Mineral Oil _ Walgreens.html

Edited September 11, 2020 by OzarkSawdust

[Woodmaster1]

I make a mineral oil beeswax mix or linseed oil beeswax mix using a crockpot and putting in tins. After the beeswax has melted and the oil blends with wax it is good to put in tins. I give a tin with each cutting board or cheese cutter that goes out the door as gifts.

Edited September 13, 2020 by Woodmaster1

[Rockytime]

2 hours ago, Woodmaster1 said:

I make a mineral oil beeswax mix or linseed oil beeswax mix using a crockpot and putting in tins. After the beeswax has melted and the oil blends with wax it is good to put in tins. I give a tin with each cutting board or cheese cutter that goes out the door as gifts.

That's a cool and nice thing to do!

[Rolf]

only on cutting boards