chipping

[shutterbug]

I am making a hummingbird (8x10" without borders included) ON 1/4" Baltic Birch using a Dewalt DW788 on slow speeds for control. Blades are Flying Dutchman FD-UR no. 5 with a no. 65 mini-bit pilot hole. Before starting, I sand down the good side, blue tape it entirely, then attach pattern to the tape using 3M spray glue. Doing all this I am getting chipping periodically and do not know how to resolve this. All help would be appreciated. Attachment show what I mean by chipping.

[andy chew]

being in 1/4 inches stock make sure your rev. teeth on the blade are not coming out the top of the stock?

[montgomery0]

It looks like your chipped edges are on the sharper turns that are on your pattern. My chipping occures when I try and turn those curves fast cause I know I can stay on the line, however, I have found that I need to slow down a bit and let the blade do its job, therefore getting your "peaks, waves and points to come out whole from top to bottom.

I personally have found that the FD-SR blades cause me less chipping {extra hard woods} and allows me to go into my turns a little more aggressive a with smoother flow and a good follow through. My advice is not set in stone. There are more Wise folks in the Village... Great advice awaits you....MUCH RESPECT...Mark

[shutterbug]

mark, you are a wise man. the last pattern I did was a fret of a rose using FD SR 3's with not one chip. I believe now that they are a better blade han the UR's and just placed an order for a gross with Mike's Workshop. Them being less TPI per inch (7-vs-3) means more control. As soon as my order comes in I will redo using SR's.

[Vector01]

Hey:

 

In my experience with the FD-UR blades and 1/4" BB ply, I found an increase in chatter (wood lifting) while cutting. Every third blade is a reverse which accounts, in my opinion, for the increase in chatter. More chatter increases the possibility of tearout.

 

As mentioned by Montgomery...Making tight turns with little support material can also cause chipping. I also have a DW788 and run my speed between 3-4 when cutting fretwork in 1/4" BB ply. I normally use FD-PSR5 blades when cutting intricate details in BB ply. I've used these for quite awhile with excellent results (no tearout).

 

If you are experiencing a lot of chatter when using these blades, just increase your downward pressure on the wood when cutting. If this continues to be a problem try a different blade. Cutting to slow can be a problem also. I find you tend to push harder on the wood to compensate for the slow cutting at lower speeds.

[Dan]

Dean,

 

A #5 blade on 1/4" ply can be tough to avoid the chips. I'd go with a #3. Sometimes the reverse teeth will cause the chip-out. Also, if you by cheap plywood, you'll see more chips or tears.

 

Dan

[montgomery0]

Good termenology Vector.. " chatter " If that boards jumpin' around on ya', better hold it down for a true cut...That is a tremendous aid to a true cut, staying down and true to your blade as if you were in a caddy going around those curves opposed to the ol' 51 plymouth. Tight...True.... and Firm....= good results...I do agree with Dan as I have found the # 3 a good blade...Aggressive, good on turns, ya' gotta stay awake tho, it will wander on those straight-aways.

[Vector01]

Oops...I should have wrote "every third tooth on the blade (FD-UR) is a reverse." A bit of brain fade on that one...LOL.

[Joey]

Shutterbug,

I also use the FD-SR #3 blades for fret work.I do not know if its

the blades or my using a backer board on everything I cut. My backer

boards are old drawer bottoms, paneling, scrap ply wood etc. Do not

have tear out problems, at least so far that is. Most times the backers

can be used,like when your cutting christmas ornaments.

Joey

[amazingkevin]

Excellant shop talk ,i'm all ears!This kind of talk makes my day!I'm going to go with more teeth!And controlling the reverse teeth to not come out on top is a plusi never thought of .that means initial blade installation position is critical.Some thing i never thought about doing ,very tricky idea!All are great ideas and all should work!Just a thought ,Is baltic birch void free?

[two saws]

I agree with most every one else about using the FD-UR blades on Baltic Birch ply. I just cannot do anything with them, wether its the #1- 3- 5 -7 -9 when cutting BB ply. Even if I stack 3 or 4 and use a slower speed they just seem to have a mind of their own!! Now for hard wood 1/16 up to 1 inch there is no better blade made!! They will track on the line and go where you want it to and cut smooth with out to much fuzz to get rid of.

Shutterbug ,just save those FD-UR blades for hardwoods and try the FD-SR blades and if you do a lot of fret work with small and tight corners you might come over to the dark side and try the FD new spirial blades. Spirial blades take a little time to get use to but once you do you will like them,trust me!!! lololol!!

Ervin

[Lucky2]

Yes Kevin, all baltic birch is supposed to be void and defect free, depending upon the grade. What I mean by that is it's all void free, but some of it that has had a defect or knot hole will have had a small patch applied to it at the factory. And on BB these patches are supposed to be only on the bottom side of the sheet.

Len