OCtoolguy Posted October 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 16 hours ago, Rockytime said: Hi Ray. I forget that not too many saws have a sliding table so what I'm talking about will not work on a saw without one. With the table in the closed position the fence is moved next to the blade and locked in place. when needing to move the fence move it by sliding the table in and out and the fence is always in place. When you talk about our blade arbor being difficult to adjust I guess I have no answer. You are correct about replacing the saw. The picture shows a bit of the table slid out in the upper left hand corner. Hope that explains it. Thanks Les. I see and understand what you are saying now. Yesterday I found a great video on Youtube that went into detail on how to make the fine tune adjustments on my saw using a dial indicator. Another tool that I don't have anymore. But, I'm going to pick one up at H/F and do some really fine adjustments on my saw. I think it might just make the difference. I thought I was doing it correctly when I did it the last time but now I see where I might have gone wrong. My saw may just be OK after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 On 10/12/2020 at 2:35 PM, stoney said: Ray my contractor Delta table saw has a cast iron top and wings and is belt driven. I'm not taking about one of the direct drive folding stand type contractor saws. Mine is a quality made piece of equipment but they still refer to it as a contractor saw. Maybe it's for higher quality contractors. LOL Al, I guess I misspoke when I referred to the jobsite saws as contractors saws. I know the difference and what you have is what I would be looking for. But, it seems that they are holding their value. The cheapest one I've seen on C/L was $550 and it looked like it had a lot of "contracting" on it. I'll be patient and something will come along. It's not like I have to have it yesterday. stoney 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 On 10/11/2020 at 7:16 PM, ScollSaw Slasher said: Got a quandary there Ray. When I look at the table saws for $500, I just keep nursing along my Delta contractor saw. Been through three chain link belts, welded the sliding stop fence twice after run ins with the garage door, a lot of tweaking over the years with sleds, movable cabinet base etc etc. But it sure has cut a lot of cabinets with precision and power even though the motor isn't the biggest on the block. So keep your eyeballs peeled for the Delta, and not the current ones. Want a vintage that's made out of real metal and not these plastic pieces of crap. As a side note. A friend worked at a small Home Depot at the time. It was decided to get rid of the big tools for space and I picked up mine for $250 still in the box. Best deal I've ever made. Sounds like you were in the right place at the right time. Congrats on a great deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgiro Posted October 17, 2020 Report Share Posted October 17, 2020 The Delta Contractor saw, sold at Lowes, is an excellent saw. However; the Rigid, sold at HD, is just as good and come with a lifetime parts & service guarantee. Personally, I use and recommend Sawstop, and not just for the safety reasons. My contractor saw, out of the box, had the table to blade measurement at 5 thousandths of an inch. After three years use, it has actually gotten better - 4 thousandths. Having said that, add another $900 to the cost of the saw for the safety braking system. But weigh that against Emergency Room charges. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted October 17, 2020 Report Share Posted October 17, 2020 24 minutes ago, tgiro said: The Delta Contractor saw, sold at Lowes, is an excellent saw. However; the Rigid, sold at HD, is just as good and come with a lifetime parts & service guarantee. Personally, I use and recommend Sawstop, and not just for the safety reasons. My contractor saw, out of the box, had the table to blade measurement at 5 thousandths of an inch. After three years use, it has actually gotten better - 4 thousandths. Having said that, add another $900 to the cost of the saw for the safety braking system. But weigh that against Emergency Room charges. Yeah, I totally agree with you there.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puzzleguy Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 On 10/11/2020 at 8:51 PM, octoolguy said: The saw that I want will not be motorized. Those are the ones that the blade attaches directly to the motor. I want a belt driven saw, tilting arbor. I will find what I'm looking for more than likely used. The new ones are out of my price range. If I thought I'd live another 20 productive years, I would buy a cabinet saw. But at my age, the next guy would get more out of it than I would. I did find a nice Ridgid saw on C/L but the seller hasn't answered my email. Agree - if you have a problem with it , the machine is not trashed , you can find used motors - or upgrade its power - i really like my older US made Delta contractors saw - being a former woodshop teacher , i know all about the unisaw -this is a close 2nd ( almost ) Ive cut big stuff like plywood 4' x 8' - with a little help -it does it fine - basically the same size table as the unisaw . No regrets -could of bought alot worse --- OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl S Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Saw Stop just for the safety factor OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KennyHopkins Posted November 17, 2020 Report Share Posted November 17, 2020 Laguna Fusion F2. OCtoolguy and OzarkSawdust 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkSawdust Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) On 10/13/2020 at 10:38 PM, Rockytime said: Hi Ray. I forget that not too many saws have a sliding table so what I'm talking about will not work on a saw without one. With the table in the closed position the fence is moved next to the blade and locked in place. when needing to move the fence move it by sliding the table in and out and the fence is always in place. When you talk about our blade arbor being difficult to adjust I guess I have no answer. You are correct about replacing the saw. The picture shows a bit of the table slid out in the upper left hand corner. Hope that explains it. OK...NOW I get it!! I've had that same saw for over 2 years and never knew it would do that! I've always moved the fence to the measurement till I needed more space...then put it on the mark and moved the sliding table. I guess it never dawned on me to set it against the blade, lock it straight, then move the sliding table...DUH! I'll have to try it later today. Thanks Les!! I still want a new saw though I'm looking also. Don't want to spend $1,000+ but want the Biesemeyer style fence. Edited November 22, 2020 by OzarkSawdust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodmaster1 Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 I own a Delta Unisaw made a year before they moved production overseas. I have a 5hp motor and I wouldn't trade it for any other saw on the market. I. Have used lathe major brands powermatic ,sawstop, jets still like the Unisaw the best. OzarkSawdust 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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