Bad wood? Or me?

[new2woodwrk]

We're in a tight spot in this area for wood. Since the hurricane, wood specially good wood is very hard to come by. I've been lucky enough to get some Poplar here and there, but it has just about run out now.

I picked up a 1x12x10 board of common (pine in our area, not knotty) for $28 and figured I make a bunch of unfinished kids stuff.

I sanded both sides, put up the shelf paper, glued down the patterns, cut out the individual patterns with a Jig Saw and began cutting the outlines of the puzzles.

At first, I used a #12 Pegas MG, but had to switch. I tried a #5, had to switch and finally settled on my go to blade #3 Pegas MG!

The problem...!

#1 The wood did not slide as easily as other woods I have used. I have used common in the past with no problems sliding across the acrylic.

#2 It was very difficult staying on or near the line to cut. I've not had this much trouble since I first started a few years ago. I felt like I had forgotten everything and was a beginner again!

#3 The chatter and lifting of the subject was insane! I had to forcefully push down on the wood to keep it from chattering and lifting. I've NEVER had to do that before.

At first I thought it was my speed and a new blade. I changed the blade to an older one, no change. I slowed down the speed, no change. I normally run around 5-7 for outer lines, and 5 for nibs and inside lines on puzzles

I changed the blades to a 5, same thing. Changed to a 3 same but a little more manageable.

I finally got 6 puzzles cut out and ready, but it took the better part of a morning and afternoon!

Do you think the wood could be the problem or am I just the world's worst scroller!

Thanks as always in advance for reading

[Wizard of Oz]

I am no expert, but sounds to me like pitch from the pine making it sticky.

[FrankEV]

Lumber yard 1x pine can be wet and/or have pine sap near the board surface.  Either could cause the wood to not slide well, even if sanded. 

However, it sounds more like (to me) blade problems and an attempt to cut too quickly. 

Inavertantly installing the blade upside down can also cause some of the problems you described and trying to cut too fast will cause many of the same problems.   

I recently stack cut two pieces of 1/2" sanded ply and it seemed like I had to slow my push speed WAY down to let the blade do the cutting.  As soon as I pushed a little too hard it was impossible to stay on the pattern line and the blade went dull real fast.   Even though they need to be changed more frequently as they dull rather fast, I find smaller blades do better when cutting thicker panels.

[jollyred]

Go to your scrap pile and get another board.  Since you cut it before, it should cut all right again.  If you still have the problem, it's the saw or blade.  If it cuts all right, it's the wood.

Tom

[OCtoolguy]

Sounds like wet wood to me. Buying pine for the home stores can be a lesson in frustration. It's never dried enough. Especially down where you are. I'd try to order some from one of the suppliers in a drier climate. You've been scrolling long enough now to know the basics and it doesn't sound like you have done anything wrong. As suggested, take a piece of scrap wood that you have had laying around and see how it responds to the same setup you are using on the new wood. I'll bet it works great.

 

[new2woodwrk]

Thanks all,

Using a scrap is a great idea! Why didn't I think of that LOL

I'll try that later and report

[new2woodwrk]

8 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Sounds like wet wood to me. Buying pine for the home stores can be a lesson in frustration. It's never dried enough. Especially down where you are. I'd try to order some from one of the suppliers in a drier climate. You've been scrolling long enough now to know the basics and it doesn't sound like you have done anything wrong. As suggested, take a piece of scrap wood that you have had laying around and see how it responds to the same setup you are using on the new wood. I'll bet it works great.

 

I didn't think I could order planks of wood at a reasonable price.

You think places like "Ooch" would have long planks of poplar, pine etc that can be delivered?

[OCtoolguy]

7 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

I didn't think I could order planks of wood at a reasonable price.

You think places like "Ooch" would have long planks of poplar, pine etc that can be delivered?

I buy from Cherokee and they ship me wood up to 4 feet. I've not checked anything longer. Not sure what UPS restrictions are. Why do you need such long boards? 

I know that Iggy buys his poplar at Lowe's. I thing he buys 4 ft. lengths.

[new2woodwrk]

4 hours ago, octoolguy said:

I buy from Cherokee and they ship me wood up to 4 feet. I've not checked anything longer. Not sure what UPS restrictions are. Why do you need such long boards? 

I know that Iggy buys his poplar at Lowe's. I thing he buys 4 ft. lengths.

Because of the Hurricane, wood here very hard to find. Lowes had some Poplar and pine, but all that is left is bunch of junk - twisted, knotted, warped etc.

Do you have a link for cherokee?

[amazingkevin]

21 hours ago, FrankEV said:

Lumber yard 1x pine can be wet and/or have pine sap near the board surface.  Either could cause the wood to not slide well, even if sanded. 

However, it sounds more like (to me) blade problems and an attempt to cut too quickly. 

Inadvertently installing the blade upside down can also cause some of the problems you described and trying to cut too fast will cause many of the same problems.   

I recently stack cut two pieces of 1/2" sanded ply and it seemed like I had to slow my push speed WAY down to let the blade do the cutting.  As soon as I pushed a little too hard it was impossible to stay on the pattern line and the blade went dull real fast.   Even though they need to be changed more frequently as they dull rather fast, I find smaller blades do better when cutting thicker panels.

The knowledge you have is incredible

[CharleyL]

Wax your table with Johnson's Paste Wax or equivalent, but not automotive wax. Cut into an old candle or piece of canning wax to wax your blade, and do this often as you cut, because it rubs off. Cutting 3/4" wood is always a slow process, but pine can give you even more problems. Your blade sizes seem best, but your feeding speed and saw speed will need to be slowed because of the problems. Learn to let the blade cut the wood. Those are very tiny teeth on that blade and they don't cut nearly as fast as those on band saws. A blade with a wider tooth set like one that is not precision ground may do much better for this. You are likely going to need to sand the cuts anyway. It's worth a try.

 

Charley 

[OCtoolguy]

5 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

Because of the Hurricane, wood here very hard to find. Lowes had some Poplar and pine, but all that is left is bunch of junk - twisted, knotted, warped etc.

Do you have a link for cherokee?

Cherokeewoods.com

Or look up Cherokee Wood Products. There is a special section for scroll saw wood.

[puzzleman]

On 10/16/2020 at 6:39 PM, new2woodwrk said:

We're in a tight spot in this area for wood. Since the hurricane, wood specially good wood is very hard to come by. I've been lucky enough to get some Poplar here and there, but it has just about run out now.

I picked up a 1x12x10 board of common (pine in our area, not knotty) for $28 and figured I make a bunch of unfinished kids stuff.

I sanded both sides, put up the shelf paper, glued down the patterns, cut out the individual patterns with a Jig Saw and began cutting the outlines of the puzzles.

At first, I used a #12 Pegas MG, but had to switch. I tried a #5, had to switch and finally settled on my go to blade #3 Pegas MG!

The problem...!

#1 The wood did not slide as easily as other woods I have used. I have used common in the past with no problems sliding across the acrylic.

#2 It was very difficult staying on or near the line to cut. I've not had this much trouble since I first started a few years ago. I felt like I had forgotten everything and was a beginner again!

#3 The chatter and lifting of the subject was insane! I had to forcefully push down on the wood to keep it from chattering and lifting. I've NEVER had to do that before.

At first I thought it was my speed and a new blade. I changed the blade to an older one, no change. I slowed down the speed, no change. I normally run around 5-7 for outer lines, and 5 for nibs and inside lines on puzzles

I changed the blades to a 5, same thing. Changed to a 3 same but a little more manageable.

I finally got 6 puzzles cut out and ready, but it took the better part of a morning and afternoon!

Do you think the wood could be the problem or am I just the world's worst scroller!

Thanks as always in advance for reading

I intentionally stay away from soft woods for puzzles - they break too easily.

Your problem sounds like the blade is upside down.

bb

[new2woodwrk]

3 hours ago, puzzleman said:

I intentionally stay away from soft woods for puzzles - they break too easily.

Your problem sounds like the blade is upside down.

bb

Actually we finally figured it out...

We purchased very long boards for the first time (and last). I always eye check the boards when I buy them, and it looked fine.

After having placed several I cut the board in half and went to work on the  puzzles.

After posting this problem and reading the responses, I re-examined the remaining board and Cracker Jacks - the cursed board is bowed!

Explains the chatter and why it was so hard to cut.

We went out and purchased new boards and I'll use the remaining board for drawer fronts.

Thanks all for jumping in and offering your insights

[Jim McDonald]

On 10/17/2020 at 5:48 PM, new2woodwrk said:

Because of the Hurricane, wood here very hard to find. Lowes had some Poplar and pine, but all that is left is bunch of junk - twisted, knotted, warped etc.

Do you have a link for cherokee?

My son works in the building supply industry. With the lockdown, they sold lots of lumber as people worked on their homes. Now, the sawmills are running wide open trying to catch up and in my opinion, kilns may be working overtime and there may be some damp wood hitting the market.

I just tried to get some wood brick mould, and found out it had been on back order since 9/1. Had to go with PVC to get done before winter.

[ike]

I have a problem with my saw blade. It's hard to tell which is the proper way to insert them so I have a nerrow ipiece of plywood and with my square I draw lines ply. 

tthen after inserting a new blade I cut dthe line if the saw is leading to the left side the blade is in correctly, but if it leads to the right I have the blade in upside down I then change the blade.

IKE