Hegner Mod

[danny]

I just do not Understand what was said about things like boss.  What is the boss?  The lower part that holds

the I say triangle r part that the blade is secured to just snaps into place so easy.  What could be Faster

and Better?  I just never heard of Top Feeding on a Hegner.  I have had mine for 14 years and I Love the

way it is now.  What some say really Interests me to learn more.  A Better Way.  Really I would like to learn.  Danny  :+}

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, danny said:

I just do not Understand what was said about things like boss.  What is the boss?  The lower part that holds

the I say triangle r part that the blade is secured to just snaps into place so easy.  What could be Faster

and Better?  I just never heard of Top Feeding on a Hegner.  I have had mine for 14 years and I Love the

way it is now.  What some say really Interests me to learn more.  A Better Way.  Really I would like to learn.  Danny  :+}

When the upper arm is raised, at the rear of the main frame there is a round "boss" that is cast into it. The arm is stopped from raising further by that "boss". By removing it the arm is not constrained from rising to it's fullest. Makes for a lot more room under the arm. 

[kmmcrafts]

The Hawk saws have this too.. Believe it's just a bolt with a rubber cap on the end though.. and could just remove the bolt.. My older saw arm raises way way up.. broke a blade once and the arm come up and busted my magnifier light bulb, LOL 

The Ultra and the newest saw arms don't really go up all that high.. I've thought about removing the bolt and drilling a hole below it and putting the bolt back in the lower hole.. as they don't go up nearly as high as that old saw does.. makes the old saw more fun to use on some bigger projects.. funny thing is.. the old saw is the smaller one so I'm limited on those big projects anyway with only the 20" throat instead of the 26" on the others..

[danny]

When the upper arm is raised, at the rear of the main frame there is a round "boss" that is cast into it. The arm is stopped from raising further by that "boss". By removing it the arm is not constrained from rising to it's fullest. Makes for a lot more room under the arm. 

Thanks Ray for this Info.  Never would of known this.  Now I will look into what you and others have said.    Danny  :+}

 

 

 

[rash_powder]

So, with the seeds of an idea from Rockytime, I went on a parts hunt to see if I could ‘make’ a clamp with as little machine work as possible.  The parts in the pic are what I found.  The coupling nut is a bit loos up and down but will work fine.  A shorter cap screw would be nice, but it’s what they (Menards) had and I can cut it.  
 

 

[Jim Finn]

I installed Hegners quick clamp on the bottom.  It is made to be used on the top.  It worked for me  but because I do not do fretwork I do not need this. so I went back to just using it on the top.

[Rockytime]

On 11/11/2020 at 2:07 PM, rash_powder said:

So, with the seeds of an idea from Rockytime, I went on a parts hunt to see if I could ‘make’ a clamp with as little machine work as possible.  The parts in the pic are what I found.  The coupling nut is a bit loos up and down but will work fine.  A shorter cap screw would be nice, but it’s what they (Menards) had and I can cut it.  
 

 

That is a pretty good idea. Saves a lot of work. You will have to drill the blade hole directly on a corner rather than on the flat. The flat will not seat well into the recessed V. The round one will automatically center on the V. Should work. 

[rash_powder]

A hand held test fit seemed like it will be good to go.  I put two holes in, the first one was a wee bit crooked.  Its a bit of a pain to file a square to the world flat on the corner.  A center punch is definitely necessary as was a very light touch when starting the drill in.  The Loc-tite is drying so will try it prob friday.  I parts for another today.

[Rockytime]

18 minutes ago, rash_powder said:

A hand held test fit seemed like it will be good to go.  I put two holes in, the first one was a wee bit crooked.  Its a bit of a pain to file a square to the world flat on the corner.  A center punch is definitely necessary as was a very light touch when starting the drill in.  The Loc-tite is drying so will try it prob friday.  I parts for another today.

You know the rule: Np photo, it didn't happen.

[Rockytime]

Previously there was mention of Jet blade holders. I spent the $20 for a set of three just to see what they were. I received them and modified one to work. First of all there is a through hole, one of which has to be plugged. The holes are large enugh to drive a truck through. The hole that was no plugged needed to be plugged and re-drilled which I did with a #52 drill. This is still a bit large but will accept some of the large blades. Then a flat was milled on the opposite side of the hole for the clamping screw to seat on. Don't think I will bother with the other two. Easier and cheaper to just purchase clamps. But, it was fun.

[rash_powder]

What you see is a Pegas #3 MG that I pulled from my waste pail to set things up.  I think I made a 1/16" hole, only through one side.  The grub screw isn't shown, but its in there with enough blue Loc-Tite gel for a dozen or so bolts.  I sanded the mating ends of the cap screw and grub screw at work as flat and square as I could.  This hasn't been tested yet, but the cap screw provides enough leverage that I don't think I will need tools to tighten it up.  There is a full 8mm of engagement surface, so hopefully I won't need tools, but if I do, a cheap hex key to leave at my saw will be more than adequate.  

Hopefully #2 will be drill more squarely on the first try.  I want to make another two or three so that I can have several blades ready to go.

If I could locally source an 8mmx1.25x15mm socket head cap screw that would be glorious; but the 20mm I have should be fine.  Will see in a day or two!

[nrscroller]

HI

Do you have to put that jet clamp in a vise to load up the blade?

Bill

[nrscroller]

Hey Stoney

How do you relocate that stop, I don't use a hold down and i would love to be able to get my arm up higher on mine.

thanks Bill 

MESSAGE ME WITH THAT INFO PLEASE!!!!

[Rockytime]

14 hours ago, nrscroller said:

Hey Stoney

How do you relocate that stop, I don't use a hold down and i would love to be able to get my arm up higher on mine.

thanks Bill 

MESSAGE ME WITH THAT INFO PLEASE!!!!

After cutting the boss off both my Hegners I did not replace it with a bolt. The arm just raises so far and stops. No bolt needed.

[Scrappile]

14 hours ago, nrscroller said:

Hey Stoney

How do you relocate that stop, I don't use a hold down and i would love to be able to get my arm up higher on mine.

thanks Bill 

MESSAGE ME WITH THAT INFO PLEASE!!!!

Bill, I just drilled and tapped a hole for a 3/8" bolt.  3/8" was the size that leather stop fit on.   I drilled the hole about 1/1/4" below the existing stop... Does not have to be exact,  You will need a little shorter spring. I found one at ACE Hardware ..  I see @Rockytimeis asking a good question... I am not sure of the answer.  My guess is that in case of a blade breaking that arm would fly up fast and high... May damage something, I don't know.

[Rockytime]

2 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Bill, I just drilled and tapped a hole for a 3/8" bolt.  3/8" was the size that leather stop fit on.   I drilled the hole about 1/1/4" below the existing stop... Does not have to be exact,  You will need a little shorter spring. I found one at ACE Hardware ..  I see @Rockytimeis asking a good question... I am not sure of the answer.  My guess is that in case of a blade breaking that arm would fly up fast and high... May damage something, I don't know.

I have broken blades and the arm flew up. There is nothing to break as there is not very much force. Also I did not have to change springs on either the 14" or 18". Don't know about the larger saws.