Jewelry Box Help Needed

[OzarkSawdust]

I'm building my first medium size jewelry box. So far...so good, mostly. Most was engineered on the fly, hope I made good notes for the next one LOL.

I'm to the point of attaching the hinges and latch, and don't want to screw up what I've done so far. I made this one out of wood I had laying around, the body is 1/2" Oak and the lid, and tray, is 1/4" Walnut. The parts are small with very small screws, see photo, for reference that's a #3 Pegas blade beside the screw. 

What's the best way to mount these hinges straight and in the proper position? I assume I'll need a dent or pilot hole to get the small screws to go in the right position.

Also...do you guys that build trinket/jewelry boxes on a regular basis, for sale, think I should use 1/4" for the next box? What thickness do you use for body & lid? 

Edited October 25, 2020 by OzarkSawdust

[dgman]

I do think 1/2” is to thick for a jewelry box. I would use 1/4”, although some like Jim Finn uses 3/8”. As far as the hinges, you do need a pilot hole for the screws. I use gimlets. They are manual screw starters. They come in sets to accommodate different sizes of screws. Basically, they are threaded at the tip with a loop at the top to turn it into the wood to make your screw hole. Since you are using 1/2” for the body, the screws will not penetrate through the wood. However, the screw may be to long for the 1/4” top. I mount the hing to a scrap of the top material and see how much it protrudes. Then grind the tip on a grinder to the length needed. Then gently screw in the screw, backing it out to clear the dust until it is seated properly. You may want to use a steal screw first as the small brass screw break easily.

You can get gimlets at garrettwade.com. Look for screw gimlets.

Edited October 25, 2020 by dgman

[OzarkSawdust]

2 hours ago, dgman said:

I do think 1/2” is to thick for a jewelry box. I would use 1/4”, although some like Jim Finn uses 3/8”. As far as the hinges, you do need a pilot hole for the screws. I use gimlets. They are manual screw starters. They come in sets to accommodate different sizes of screws. Basically, they are threaded at the tip with a loop at the top to turn it into the wood to make your screw hole. Since you are using 1/2” for the body, the screws will not penetrate through the wood. However, the screw may be to long for the 1/4” top. I mount the hing to a scrap of the top material and see how much it protrudes. Then grind the tip on a grinder to the length needed. Then gently screw in the screw, backing it out to clear the dust until it is seated properly. You may want to use a steal screw first as the small brass screw break easily.

You can get gimlets at garrettwade.com. Look for screw gimlets.

Interesting, I had never seen those before. Do you think the smallest gimlet in that set is small enough for those screws? 

I was thinking maybe one of those little push drills they sell to use with our #58 & #60 bits. I think people that make jewelry use them also. Heck, I might get both! I'm sure they both will come in handy.

Thanks for the info!

[Dave Monk]

I do not make my boxes like that because if the lid warps it is really noticeable. 

[dgman]

48 minutes ago, OzarkSawdust said:

Interesting, I had never seen those before. Do you think the smallest gimlet in that set is small enough for those screws? 

I was thinking maybe one of those little push drills they sell to use with our #58 & #60 bits. I think people that make jewelry use them also. Heck, I might get both! I'm sure they both will come in handy.

Thanks for the info!

Yes, that is what I use when setting small screws. I measure the length of the screw and apply some blue tape to the gimlet as a depth stop.

[jollyred]

You can also use a hinge bit (formerly known as a Vix bit) to set the holes.  These self center on the hinge screw hole, and the depth can be controlled.  If you plan on making a number of these, the hinge bit is the way to go.   Just be sure the bit is sized to fit your screw.  

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Self-Centering-Hinge-Bit-A99SCHB1/312284028?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000071858300-58700006314327728-92700057006649503&msclkid=4f625f0da6f61376d3a1009b822b39b7&gclid=4f625f0da6f61376d3a1009b822b39b7&gclsrc=3p.ds

Otherwise, using a gimlet or awl to mark the center of the hinge hole then drilling the hole is a good way to do it.

Tom

[ben2008]

I use VIX bits to center holes in hinges.

https://www.amazon.com/COMOWARE-Centering-Woodworking-Window-Replacement/dp/B08CGHQPBR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Vix+Bit&qid=1603699600&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyS0FSUkxGODJQWElOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTE5Njc3Mk0yVlo4QkFLS1pFVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTExOTI4MlVZRDY5RTdSTzlONiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Edited October 26, 2020 by ben2008

[MrsN]

When my students are using small hinges I have them hot glue them in place to mark where the pilot holes will go. We also sometimes use it to hole the hinge in place while putting in the little screws, one less thing to try and hold/line-up. 

[munzieb]

I posted this a while back and this technique works well for me.

Thanks Dave. I've got the hinge thing down pat. I posted my technique in an earlier post but 2 sided tape makes it easy. I'll mark off the outside edges of the hinge on the lower base. The hinges I use are 1/8" thick at the hinge. I actually mounted the lower hinge before I glued the box together, that way I can do all my cuts on the scroll saw. I cut down the 1/8" on the sides and trim out the recess for the hinge. I use the 2 sided tape to hold the hinge in place and drill out for the screws. I'll pre tap the screws with wax and remove the screws. Next, I assemble the sides. I remove the tape on the lower hinge and replace with a smaller piece. I put a piece of 1/16" wood inside the sides of the hinge so that it stands flush and then apply a full size piece of 2 sided tape on top of that. I'll properly position the box frame on top box top and make sure the tape on the top of the hinge adheres to the box top. I use an exacto knife to lift the hinge off the base. They will be properly aligned and I pre drill the mounting screws making sure it doesn't go all the way through by marking the drill with blue tape. I will pre tap the holes with wax. Since the top is 1/4" and screws are 1/4". I'll hold the screw with a vice grip and grind them down to the right size to fit. This actually goes pretty quick once you do it a few times. I've also done this with piano stop hinges also. (since you assembled the box already, use a xacto knife to trim out for the depth of the hinges)

[OzarkSawdust]

13 hours ago, jollyred said:

You can also use a hinge bit (formerly known as a Vix bit) to set the holes.  These self center on the hinge screw hole, and the depth can be controlled.  If you plan on making a number of these, the hinge bit is the way to go.   Just be sure the bit is sized to fit your screw.  

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Self-Centering-Hinge-Bit-A99SCHB1/312284028?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000071858300-58700006314327728-92700057006649503&msclkid=4f625f0da6f61376d3a1009b822b39b7&gclid=4f625f0da6f61376d3a1009b822b39b7&gclsrc=3p.ds

Otherwise, using a gimlet or awl to mark the center of the hinge hole then drilling the hole is a good way to do it.

Tom

That's 1/8" for #8, #10, #12 screws. I may look around to see if they make them for #2, I think that is what these are. But thanks, I have them on my list of tools to get foe other projects. That looks like a quick and easy way to do it.

 

edit: I found a nice chart for screw hole sizes

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Wood-Screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx

And on Amazon there are hinge bit sets with small sizes!

Thanks!

 

Edited October 26, 2020 by OzarkSawdust

[OzarkSawdust]

1 hour ago, MrsN said:

When my students are using small hinges I have them hot glue them in place to mark where the pilot holes will go. We also sometimes use it to hole the hinge in place while putting in the little screws, one less thing to try and hold/line-up. 

Thanks Katie! I thought of that...but wondered if that was a dumb idea lol. Now I know it will work!

[oldhudson]

The first step with any hinge is careful layout. I think the thickness of stock depends on the overall size of the box. (in the in the jewelry box pictured,  the top of the box was 3/4 and the sides were 7/8 I think, the trays were 1/4 on the outside and 1/8 for the dividers) I don't build a lot of boxes but I usually use a vix bit to pilot. And I'm surprised no one mentioned mortising the hinge in place. The lid stand 'proud' without a mortise (at least in situations where the hinge is 'captured' between the lid and box side)?  As someone mentioned use a steel screw after making a pilot hole, just in ensure the brass one doesn't snap off. In the last pic, a business card box,  the hinges aren't mortised because they are not because they are outside the box.

 

[OzarkSawdust]

1 hour ago, oldhudson said:

The first step with any hinge is careful layout. I think the thickness of stock depends on the overall size of the box. (in the in the jewelry box pictured,  the top of the box was 3/4 and the sides were 7/8 I think, the trays were 1/4 on the outside and 1/8 for the dividers) I don't build a lot of boxes but I usually use a vix bit to pilot. And I'm surprised no one mentioned mortising the hinge in place. The lid stand 'proud' without a mortise (at least in situations where the hinge is 'captured' between the lid and box side)?  As someone mentioned use a steel screw after making a pilot hole, just in ensure the brass one doesn't snap off. In the last pic, a business card box,  the hinges aren't mortised because they are not because they are outside the box.

 

Very beautiful box!! The business card box is cool. The hinges will be outside on this box, I need to figure out mortises and how to do them first. I also want to put inlays in the top, when I get this "basic box" down pat. What is the best thickness for an inlay? 

[OzarkSawdust]

14 hours ago, dgman said:

Yes, that is what I use when setting small screws. I measure the length of the screw and apply some blue tape to the gimlet as a depth stop.

Thanks Dan! I ordered a set from Garrett Wade last night.

[Rockytime]

6 hours ago, MrsN said:

When my students are using small hinges I have them hot glue them in place to mark where the pilot holes will go. We also sometimes use it to hole the hinge in place while putting in the little screws, one less thing to try and hold/line-up. 

Super idea!

[OCtoolguy]

19 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

I do not make my boxes like that because if the lid warps it is really noticeable. 

Ok Dave, how do you make yours? I love learning new things.

 

[Dave Monk]

3 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Ok Dave, how do you make yours? I love learning new things.

 

I do a lot of styles. Here's one example. Glue it all together and saw it in two on my table saw.

[OzarkSawdust]

37 minutes ago, Dave Monk said:

I do a lot of styles. Here's one example. Glue it all together and saw it in two on my table saw.

I've loved that box cense the first time you put it on here. The inlay is just awesome!

So you use a table saw and not a band saw? I think Jim Finn told me one time he cuts it open with a band saw. I'm going to have to try that...on scrap first 

[Rockytime]

I think a finely tuned band saw could do that. I, however, will never know as I just sold my band saw.

[Dave Monk]

49 minutes ago, OzarkSawdust said:

I've loved that box cense the first time you put it on here. The inlay is just awesome!

So you use a table saw and not a band saw? I think Jim Finn told me one time he cuts it open with a band saw. I'm going to have to try that...on scrap first 

I cut it all the way around on my table saw. I set the blade so it doesn't quite go all the way through. Then I take a utility blade and cut through the remainder all the way around. It takes very little effort with a ROS to smooth it up.  

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

I do a lot of styles. Here's one example. Glue it all together and saw it in two on my table saw.

Damn! You do nice work! I'm envious of your abilities. Fantastic!