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Variable speed control box for a Hegner scroll saw


Recipe one

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Hi Rockytime 

 

Thanks for the information appreciated I was interested in a 14" Multimax  but I wonder if you can use an adaptable speed control box too slow it down enough .

have more control over whether it would work right? or is it not worth it  better off buying one that already has it built into the equipment such as an 18" Multimax  

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I am pretty sure Hegner uses capacitor start motors like what are found in furnaces, air conditioners, etc.  These motors use a variable frequency drive to control there speed correctly.  The router speed controls are generally variable voltage.  Its been a while since I looked into all this; but that router control will likely limit the power of the saw.

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Hello Everyone 

 

Thank you for all your input appreciated, adding a speed control box to a single speed scroll saw setup? sounds like maybe it would be best to 

look for one that already has it built into the machine, than to find out it does not perform properly, with the machine you just purchase- adding a speed control box

The last thing I want is a saw that is too fast and aggressive, have to try to get use to the fact that it has no other speed option for cutting intricate parts out.

I have never owned a good quality scroll saw for though that do once comfortable with the saw and how it is design to cut material , question how accurate can you cut parts out with a top of the line saw like a Hegner 

scale model building .   Any additional help would be appreciated 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Recipe one said:

Hello Everyone 

 

Thank you for all your input appreciated, adding a speed control box to a single speed scroll saw setup? sounds like maybe it would be best to 

look for one that already has it built into the machine, than to find out it does not perform properly, with the machine you just purchase- adding a speed control box

The last thing I want is a saw that is too fast and aggressive, have to try to get use to the fact that it has no other speed option for cutting intricate parts out.

I have never owned a good quality scroll saw for though that do once comfortable with the saw and how it is design to cut material , question how accurate can you cut parts out with a top of the line saw like a Hegner 

scale model building .   Any additional help would be appreciated 

 

 

 

As accurate as you want it to be. It's mostly in the operator more than the saw. If you stick with one of the top names, not the entry level saws, you'll be fine. I turn the speed down on mine occasionally but most of the time I leave it about 2/3 throttle. The key word here, no matter what saw you decide on, is PRACTICE! Don't jump in and think you'll be an expert right off. Get some thin plywood and just scribble some patterns on that and cut away. Lot's of "how to" videos on youtube.

 

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Hello SSV Patron 

 

Thank you for the information and advice appreciated,Question as I was trying to educate myself a bit more here board thickness and cutting on a scroll saw . I have one project I was trying to do that requires a board thickness of 3/4 but I read somewhere that scroll saws are design to hand a max of 1/4 ? choose of material to work with would be Alder the softest of the hardwoods just above pine and poplar . 

Any additional help would be appreciated 

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I am not sure where you saw scroll saws are designed for a max of 1/4" but I cut wood often up to 1 1/2" (38mm) thick on my scroll saw.  3/4" is really a standard for many projects.  Even those of us who stack cut will typically stack 3/4" or more.  Now thicker woods do require larger blades.  Typically I would use a 2/0 or #1 blade on 1/4" or less and a #5 or #7 on 3/4" or more. For a newbie I would recommend poplar.  Pine is softer but the pronounced grain in pine can cause blade control issues as the blade will tend to follow the grain.

 

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Hi Scott 

 

Thank you for the information appreciated, encouraging news board thickness that a scroll saw is designed to handle up too great ! I have one more question 

when looking at the older model Hegner's vs the new models, I did notes that the new models have a throat plate insert, while the older ones I have seen do not have this 

design option?  is there a the big advantage to having the plate can the work piece get snagged when cutting on one that does not have this design feature . 

any help appreciated 

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1 hour ago, Recipe one said:

Hi Scott 

 

Thank you for the information appreciated, encouraging news board thickness that a scroll saw is designed to handle up too great ! I have one more question 

when looking at the older model Hegner's vs the new models, I did notes that the new models have a throat plate insert, while the older ones I have seen do not have this 

design option?  is there a the big advantage to having the plate can the work piece get snagged when cutting on one that does not have this design feature . 

any help appreciated 

Not sure what you mean by throat plate.  There is a slot from the front of the table to the blade hole slot that is used for ease of blade changes but there is no removable insert like on a band saw or table saw.  Do you have a picture?

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@NC Scroller The later models of Hegners have a round hole in the table where the blade goes through as opposed to the rectangular holes in the early models.   It comes with a metal insert that reduces the size of the hole and you can buy plastic replacement inserts that you drill the size hole you want for the blade to actually go through... Give you options for zero clearance inserts for less tear out.. I make my own inserts for my saw.

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3 hours ago, Recipe one said:

Hi Scott 

 

Thank you for the information appreciated, encouraging news board thickness that a scroll saw is designed to handle up too great ! I have one more question 

when looking at the older model Hegner's vs the new models, I did notes that the new models have a throat plate insert, while the older ones I have seen do not have this 

design option?  is there a the big advantage to having the plate can the work piece get snagged when cutting on one that does not have this design feature . 

any help appreciated 

Mine didn't have the removable plate but I never found any problem with that. The old fix is to tape a playing card over the hole to get a zero clearance cutting area.

 

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18 minutes ago, Recipe one said:

Hello Scrappile

 

Thank you for the information appreciated it is not a problem to design one to fit the rectangular hole on the older models yes ? if so what material do you use to make yours up is it some sort of plastic .

Thanks 

 

Sorry, David,,, I can't answer your question I have never been around an older Hegner.... Maybe @octoolguy answered it... I have an "auxiliary" table top on mine,,, just to make the table a little bigger.. You can see my top is getting somewhat worn.... will have to make a new one one of these days.My table top is Masonite... Work great.. I salvaged the Masonite from an old baby crib.... I have enough left for one more top...;)

IMG_4232.JPG

Edited by Scrappile
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2 hours ago, Scrappile said:

@NC Scroller The later models of Hegners have a round hole in the table where the blade goes through as opposed to the rectangular holes in the early models.   It comes with a metal insert that reduces the size of the hole and you can buy plastic replacement inserts that you drill the size hole you want for the blade to actually go through... Give you options for zero clearance inserts for less tear out.. I make my own inserts for my saw.

Learn something new every day.....Thanks  Scrap.

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