Suggestions and tips for a (kinda) newbie?

[DrunkenMonkey]

Hey guys and gals, I did a little bit of scroll saw work in woodshop classes back in the day, but its been a while so I'm hoping I'm not biting off more than I can chew with this project. I'm trying to make a portrait of my girlfriend and I as a Christmas gift. I have someone else converting a picture to pattern for me because I wasn't happy with my own attempts.

If anyone is able to offer any tips for me I would be so appreciative! Suggestions for type of wood? Blade? Mounting it (thinking mount the cutout onto something dark(?) and make a frame of some kind)? General newbie scroll tips?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer advice! I'm really nervous but also super excited to get (back) into this!

[John B]

Mark, I don't know in which part of the world you are from, but it seems that the preferred timber for portraits in the US is Baltic Birch ply either 1/8 - 1/4"
In Aust. Hoop pine ply is the best.
Most portrait cutters glue their cut out to a black or coloured piece of ply, some time using coloured felt instead of paint. If you are uncertain about making a frame, a lot of people purchase a photo frame and make the scroll work the appropriate size.
Hope this give you a kick start

[ike]

 

I use 1/8 Baltic berch with a cheep ply backing painted black. the cheep ply is floor underlayment It use to be $15 per sheet but the way wood is going up it's hard to tell what it is now. I use a #3 olson  blade .

IKE

[Ctutor]

Cheep is not the way to go for something like a portrait.  Try Ochooch hardwoods or some other supplier even Amazon and get some good ply.  The uderlaiment will spliinter and make things look . . . well cheep.

[Foxfold]

 

1 hour ago, ike said:

I use 1/8 Baltic berch with a cheep ply backing painted black. the cheep ply is floor underlayment It use to be $15 per sheet but the way wood is going up it's hard to tell what it is now. I use a #3 olson  blade

I agree with @ike,  that's the best way, in my opinion, to go but as has been said I suppose it depends on where in the world you are and what you have at your disposal.

I've used ¼" ply before now for 'portrait' style work and it's turned out fine.  These 3 were done with ¼" I too use a cheap ply painted black for a backer.  Or you can make a frame.  Here are the three types of 'frame' I use.  1) with the 'backer' bigger than cutting, 2)  Frame incorporated into cutting 3)  Glued onto a large backer and then framed with another wood.

 

 

Edited December 5, 2020 by Foxfold

[don in brooklin on]

If you are a newbie cutting 1/8 Baltic Birch on it own is difficult.

It is easier to control the blade when cutting 1/8 material when you stack cut. You get more resistance and more control.

Steve Good has some comments on cutting thin wood at https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2020/05/mini-church-electric-tea-light-candle.html

There is a video imbedded that is interesting for new and experienced.

 

Edited December 5, 2020 by don in brooklin on

[NC Scroller]

I agree with most of what was said.  1/8" or 1/4" Baltic Birch for the portrait.  The backer can be painted or stain plywood  or solid wood or other materials like colored mat board.  Like Don said cutting a single piece of 1/8" or 1/4" material can be tricky.  Blade size should be small like 2/0 or #1.  Many people like spiral blades for portraits.  If you post a picture we might be able to give you better suggests.