Delta Rants

[Rolf]

This is where I differ a bit. I have too many hobbies and projects and not enough time. So I just need my tools to work so new it is for me. 

I have had to spend too much of my time fixing and repairing things in the past. I do love fixing things but for the most part my projects are more fun. Fortunately for the first time in my life I have the resources, a lot of which was generated by my Hawk G4 26, to buy what I want. 

[OzarkSawdust]

2 hours ago, Woodmaster1 said:

Tuff choice Tablesaw or wife(lol)

I'm not going down that rabbit hole! 

[OCtoolguy]

8 hours ago, Woodmaster1 said:

Tuff choice Tablesaw or wife(lol)

That saw probably came on the market about the same time we got married.

 

[OCtoolguy]

16 hours ago, dgman said:

You can always come up and use mine Ray!

Long drive but thanks for the offer. I wish you lived down here.

 

[OCtoolguy]

On 12/30/2020 at 2:44 AM, new2woodwrk said:

Mine has the motor inside - works like a charm and I use it a lot. Not as much as a professional, but often enough that I turn it on and run some wood through it at least twice a week, sometimes more.

Unisaws have the motor inside also. The difference is where the blade attaches. If it goes directly onto the motor shaft, it's a motorized saw and they are notorious for having wobble and runout on the blade. 

[dgman]

1 hour ago, octoolguy said:

Unisaws have the motor inside also. The difference is where the blade attaches. If it goes directly onto the motor shaft, it's a motorized saw and they are notorious for having wobble and runout on the blade. 

The Unisaw actually has three belts, all in a row that turn the trunnion, which turns the blade.  

[OCtoolguy]

2 minutes ago, dgman said:

The Unisaw actually has three belts, all in a row that turn the trunnion, which turns the blade.  

Correct Dan. I had mine for more than 10 years and never even had to adjust the belts. That saw was my pride and joy. 

[new2woodwrk]

15 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Unisaws have the motor inside also. The difference is where the blade attaches. If it goes directly onto the motor shaft, it's a motorized saw and they are notorious for having wobble and runout on the blade. 

Thanks,  I didn't know that - so much I still don't know, hence the moniker... new2woodwrk

Mine has not as of yet exhibited the wobble - is there a way to correct that?

[OCtoolguy]

7 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

Thanks,  I didn't know that - so much I still don't know, hence the moniker... new2woodwrk

Mine has not as of yet exhibited the wobble - is there a way to correct that?

Not really. It all depends on the quality of the motor and they are mass produced. They have cheap bearings and the end play is usually a lot. When I bought my job site saw, I checked it and it seemed to be pretty tight so I took it knowing in my mind it was not my forever saw. But at my age, I guess it is. Keep your eyes open for a used Unisaw. The mechanism is bulletproof and the motor is replaceable when needed. I just saw one near me for $600 but I don't have 220 and that's what they really need.

[new2woodwrk]

3 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Not really. It all depends on the quality of the motor and they are mass produced. They have cheap bearings and the end play is usually a lot. When I bought my job site saw, I checked it and it seemed to be pretty tight so I took it knowing in my mind it was not my forever saw. But at my age, I guess it is. Keep your eyes open for a used Unisaw. The mechanism is bulletproof and the motor is replaceable when needed. I just saw one near me for $600 but I don't have 220 and that's what they really need.

So you're saying if the wobble occurs the whole motor needs to be replace?

[OCtoolguy]

Just now, new2woodwrk said:

So you're saying if the wobble occurs the whole motor needs to be replace?

Basically yes because that amount of play is as close as you'll ever get to being right on. If you have a dial indicator, that's the best way to check but you can use a piece of wood and a pencil too. First thing is take the throat plate out and with the saw unplugged, mount a blade and grab it by the outer edges and do a push/pull in it. If it moves in and out very much, I mean less than .010 I would say that's ok. But anything more than that is not acceptable. Then roll the blade toward you and mark a tooth with a sharpee and place a straight edge along side of the blade and rotate the blade to that same marked tooth at the back. There should not be much deviation between the too. It can mean either an out of center shaft or the whole motor is out of alignment. That can be adjusted but the bent shaft can't. I can't remember what saw you have. Is it a motorized contractor saw or a job site saw. My saw is a jobsite saw and I have tuned it to be the best it an ever be. It will only go downhill from here.

 

[new2woodwrk]

On 1/3/2021 at 5:34 PM, octoolguy said:

Basically yes because that amount of play is as close as you'll ever get to being right on. If you have a dial indicator, that's the best way to check but you can use a piece of wood and a pencil too. First thing is take the throat plate out and with the saw unplugged, mount a blade and grab it by the outer edges and do a push/pull in it. If it moves in and out very much, I mean less than .010 I would say that's ok. But anything more than that is not acceptable. Then roll the blade toward you and mark a tooth with a sharpee and place a straight edge along side of the blade and rotate the blade to that same marked tooth at the back. There should not be much deviation between the too. It can mean either an out of center shaft or the whole motor is out of alignment. That can be adjusted but the bent shaft can't. I can't remember what saw you have. Is it a motorized contractor saw or a job site saw. My saw is a jobsite saw and I have tuned it to be the best it an ever be. It will only go downhill from here.

 

Thanks,

I have a contractors saw the 36-725

I have tuned it very well - spent days getting it set up with Ytube vids

So far no movement in the shaft on mine. It's accurate to about 1/64 which I can live with for my use

Edited January 6, 2021 by new2woodwrk

[OCtoolguy]

5 minutes ago, new2woodwrk said:

Thanks,

I have a contractors saw the 36-725

I have tuned it very well - spent days getting it set up with Ytube vids

So far no movement in the shaft on mine. It's accurate to about 1/64 which I can live with for my use

That's a nice looking saw. Should serve you for a long time. If you have it tuned and the motor has no run out or endplay, you're in business.