Thinking About A New Miter Saw

[Rolf]

I bought a Makita LS 1016 ten years ago, It has a unique multi rail slider that takes less space behind the saw. 

I could never get the fence perfect but it is fine for what I need. It is a 10 inch saw that will cut a 12"width.

Lots of new saws out there and since this will be a workhorse in your shop I would not cheap out.

Edited January 21, 2021 by Rolf

[WayneMahler]

I was just out at Lowes. They have a 10" sliding Metabo saw. The slide is all in front so no extra back space needed. Bases seems a bit small though. Bosch also produces a great sliding miter saw. The slide in more a folding arm then an actual sliding bar system. Something worth thinking about. I think the Metabo runs around $300 and the Bocsh is $500 - $600 I believe. 

[tgiro]

Kevin - since you already have a Hitachi, I would recommend you look at the new Metabo Sliding saws. Hitachi Power Tools bought Metabo a while back and changed the name of their US products to Metabo.

Most sliding miter saws have sliders that tend to bang against the wall, as they slide back behind the machine. Metabo (HTP) designed theirs so the slider is towards the front of the machine. You can back the saw up to a wall and still have full sliding action. And they still have the laser line guide.

We have them at Lowes, if you want to look/touch/feel. I don't know if they are at HD, but they are on Amazon.

[OzarkSawdust]

I bought the DeWalt DW780 12" double bevel sliding compound miter last summer. Great saw!! It has a light, instead of a laser, that shows you where both sides of your blade are going to cut.  I put it on a Delta 36-267 folding miter saw stand. It's real beefy and has sliding arms that will support a total over 9' of board. still folds up and rolls out of the way. Then I stuck a 100 tooth Makita blade on it. I really like the setup!

 

 

Edited January 19, 2021 by OzarkSawdust

[kmmcrafts]

5 hours ago, OzarkSawdust said:

I bought the DeWalt DW780 12" double bevel sliding compound miter last summer. Great saw!! It has a light, instead of a laser, that shows you where both sides of your blade are going to cut.  I put it on a Delta 36-267 folding miter saw stand. It's real beefy and has sliding arms that will support a total over 9' of board. still folds up and rolls out of the way. Then I stuck a 100 tooth Makita blade on it. I really like the setup!

 

 

Seen this model last night while researching online.. I really like this model and this might be the one I shoot for unless something better comes up.. What is important to me besides a quality saw is the larger width it can cut.. so far this model has the largest 90 degree cross cut. I'm planning to start making some signs on my CNC.. and right now I'm all the time having to flip the board to be able to cut all the way.. and this is on small signs 10 - 12" My CNC has a 24 x 24" capacity.. well actually 24 wide.. since it's open frame CNC I can carve any length so long as I stop and move the board through and able to re-align everything, LOL Anyway I see a need for a large cross cut saw.. Probably mostly work with 14" or less but anything that can cut that or larger is what I'm looking for.. I also see a open end drum sander in my future too, LOL

[NC Scroller]

Whatever you do don't cheap out on the blade unless you are just using it to break down stock.  If you are looking to cut picture frames and moulding the blade can make a big difference.  Think more teeth and less hook.

[ben2008]

10 hours ago, FrankEV said:

Les,

Please read my reply to kmmcrafts above.   

I highly suggest you don't waste your money on a power miter saw for making picture frames...YOU WILL NOT BE HAPPY.

If you have a decent table saw, buy a good frame miter making sled.  Perfect miters every time and lengths exactly repeatable.  

I guess I must just be too dumb to know better. I have been cutting picture frames and compound miter cuts (for cove molding) for about 25/30 years. I started with a cheap Ryobi miter saw then advanced to a Makita compound miter saw with a stand and stops. It has a built in hold down. You must secure the wood to get accurate cuts. I saw Norm Abrams ( New Yankee Workshop) do it many years ago and just followed his advice. Are there other ways to cut picture frames and cove moldings? Yep, and pretty sure they work just fine too.

Forgot. This is the saw blade I use on my miter saw. Freud D1090X 90 tooth blade.

Edited January 20, 2021 by ben2008

[ben2008]

21 hours ago, Rockytime said:

You cut picture frames with it? I ask because a long time ago I inquired on this forum about using a miter saw for picture frames. The general consensus was that they are not accurate enough. I was about to buy one until that advise was given. How accurate is yours? I would again consider purchasing one.

My Makita is still quite accurate. The key is securing the wood so it doesn't move. My Makita has a left side hold down clamp built in. I have cut picture frames and have done compund miter cuts with it. Many years ago I watched many videos (VCRs) with Norm Abrams and the New Yankee Workshop. I just followed his advice on how to get accurate cuts wih the miter saw. Are they accurae? I have had no complaints. 

Edited January 20, 2021 by ben2008

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, ben2008 said:

I guess I must just be too dumb to know better. I have been cutting picture frames and compound miter cuts (for cove molding) for about 25/30 years. I started with a cheap Ryobi miter saw then advanced to a Makita compound miter saw with a stand and stops. It has a built in hold down. You must secure the wood to get accurate cuts. I saw Norm Abrams ( New Yankee Workshop) do it many years ago and just followed his advice. Are there other ways to cut picture frames and cove moldings? Yep, and pretty sure they work just fine too.

Forgot. This is the saw blade I use on my miter saw. Freud D1090X 90 tooth blade.

That's the blade I run.. and I just bought it so that is kind of why I was wanting to stick with a 10" saw rather than the 12.. but after researching more.. I may end up going with the 12" saw just because it seems to have the largest cross cut.. Anyway.. I've run several brands and configurations of blades on my saw but this one has been the best by far.. I was planning to send in my old blade for sharpening and tuning. Not sure what that cost but the place I buy my lumber will send them out to some company that sharpens them etc.. 

[Rockytime]

11 hours ago, FrankEV said:

Les,

Please read my reply to kmmcrafts above.   

I highly suggest you don't waste your money on a power miter saw for making picture frames...YOU WILL NOT BE HAPPY.

If you have a decent table saw, buy a good frame miter making sled.  Perfect miters every time and lengths exactly repeatable.  

Shucks, I wanted to buy a new toy. Actually I have a simple miter sled for my little Kobalt saw. Works well. Guess I'll have to think of another tool to buy. Simple but it works.

[ben2008]

46 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

That's the blade I run.. and I just bought it so that is kind of why I was wanting to stick with a 10" saw rather than the 12.. but after researching more.. I may end up going with the 12" saw just because it seems to have the largest cross cut.. Anyway.. I've run several brands and configurations of blades on my saw but this one has been the best by far.. I was planning to send in my old blade for sharpening and tuning. Not sure what that cost but the place I buy my lumber will send them out to some company that sharpens them etc.. 

I get my blades sharpened at at Forrest. I have 2 of their Woodworker2 blades. They are expensive but also top quality. I also have Freud blades for my table saw and miter saw. I just bought a Freud Rip blade for my table saw. I'm not a professional only a hobbiest. But I believe in buying top quality. If I can't afford it, I just save up until I can. In my experience it pays off in the long run. I have an RBI scroll saw for 29 years and it still runs just fine with zero problems. I also have the 20+ year old Makita compound cut miter saw and finally my table saw is a Jet contractor saw. I have never had an issue with any of them. I have had my share of inferior products through the years. I learned my lesson the hard way. 

For what you are attempting the 12" DeWalt seems to be your ticket. I have some DeWalt tools and I like them very much. They are top quality and some of them are made in America. I also have Bosch tools. 3 routers a Bosch router table, Bosch sabre saw and palm sander.

[ben2008]

44 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

That's the blade I run.. and I just bought it so that is kind of why I was wanting to stick with a 10" saw rather than the 12.. but after researching more.. I may end up going with the 12" saw just because it seems to have the largest cross cut.. Anyway.. I've run several brands and configurations of blades on my saw but this one has been the best by far.. I was planning to send in my old blade for sharpening and tuning. Not sure what that cost but the place I buy my lumber will send them out to some company that sharpens them etc.. 

Forest blades will also sharpen any blade to original specs.

[John B]

I have a Dwalt sliding compound mitre saw, 255mm (10") and have it for close to around 10 years. It has an electric brake which is brilliant. As for the centre holes in the blades you can get bushes to make them fit just about any arbour hole.

[Bill WIlson]

I have a DeWalt 12" compound miter saw.  It seems to be plenty accurate, but the thing I like most is the LED light that shines on the blade, casting a shadow where it will contact the wood.  The light is located directly over the blade, so it is accurate, as opposed to most lasers that are on one side of the blade and have a little offset to them.

My CMS didn't come with this factory installed.  I was able to find it as an accessory and my saw was already wired to accept it.  It works great.  I think every manufacturer should adopt this method.