Marquetry

[rustynail]

As we are talking about ways to cut marquetry here is a link to the chevalet I made after I took a class at the American School of French Marquetry with Patrick Edwards in San Diego, California.

 

https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/83169

 

 

 

 

[OCtoolguy]

47 minutes ago, rustynail said:

As we are talking about ways to cut marquetry here is a link to the chevalet I made after I took a class at the American School of French Marquetry with Patrick Edwards in San Diego, California.

 

https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/83169

 

 

 

 

That's neat. I'd like to try operating one.

[Scrappile]

I have wanted to build one,,,, even have the plans for one somewhere, but I figure, that is for serious marquetry,,, I'm talking serious... If I went that route, I would want to go to school for it, which at my advanced age, is not feasible....or affordable.  I follow the marquetry guys on Lumberjocks.... they do some amazing work..

@octoolguy received, my book today... I paid $8 for it off Ebay... said in good condition... looks new... I have done real well on ebay for books and magazines... not been disappointed yet... Tomorrow, the one I thought I had will magically show up right before my eyes!!!  Oh well I bought it off ebay also and didn't pay nearly new price for it.

[rjweb]

Paul,

i visit lumberjocks all the time, but have never seen a marquetry group, RJ

[Scrappile]

18 minutes ago, rjweb said:

Paul,

i visit lumberjocks all the time, but have never seen a marquetry group, RJ

To my knowledge there is no "marquetry group".  There are some very professional marquetry people on Lumberjocks one teaches and has a school in San Diego.  Lumberjocks is where I first started getting interested in marquetry.  This is one:http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com.  There are others...

[OCtoolguy]

5 hours ago, Scrappile said:

I have wanted to build one,,,, even have the plans for one somewhere, but I figure, that is for serious marquetry,,, I'm talking serious... If I went that route, I would want to go to school for it, which at my advanced age, is not feasible....or affordable.  I follow the marquetry guys on Lumberjocks.... they do some amazing work..

@octoolguy received, my book today... I paid $8 for it off Ebay... said in good condition... looks new... I have done real well on ebay for books and magazines... not been disappointed yet... Tomorrow, the one I thought I had will magically show up right before my eyes!!!  Oh well I bought it off ebay also and didn't pay nearly new price for it.

That's great Paul, and as for age, it's only a number. Don't think about it and just keep doing what you're doing. Stay busy and when you time comes, you'll have died a happy man. I told my wife, if I don't answer, come check on me and if I'm slumped over my saw, I went doing what I love. "Tan my hide when I die Clyde and then hang it on the shed". As the song goes.

 

[rustynail]

 

[meflick]

So, I’m interested as I see this as similar to Intarsia I do but much thinner and without all the massive sanding. I’ve gotten some of the books and videos you guys have mentioned here and read them and watched them. Have not gotten a chance to try anything yet. My question is on this Chevalet tool. I understand it is “old school” and such but my question is what/how would it different, better or worse then cutting with a scroll saw? If you had a scroll saw, is there a “need” for the Chevalet does it offer something that you can’t do with the scroll saw? An advantage over the scroll saw? Or just another neat tool to do it “old school”?

[Scrappile]

16 minutes ago, meflick said:

So, I’m interested as I see this as similar to Intarsia I do but much thinner and without all the massive sanding. I’ve gotten some of the books and videos you guys have mentioned here and read them and watched them. Have not gotten a chance to try anything yet. My question is on this Chevalet tool. I understand it is “old school” and such but my question is what/how would it different, better or worse then cutting with a scroll saw? If you had a scroll saw, is there a “need” for the Chevalet does it offer something that you can’t do with the scroll saw? An advantage over the scroll saw? Or just another neat tool to do it “old school”?

No real knowledge do I have,,, but it a person got into real intricate marquetry, like the designs on furnisher, jewelry boxes and such,,, I think the chevalet would be the thing.... I would just like to build one,,, but if I was to go that far into marquetry,,, well it would have to be my main hobby and I would need some schooling..  You know, like this kind of art:

 

[rustynail]

3 hours ago, Scrappile said:

No real knowledge do I have,,, but it a person got into real intricate marquetry, like the designs on furnisher, jewelry boxes and such,,, I think the chevalet would be the thing.... I would just like to build one,,, but if I was to go that far into marquetry,,, well it would have to be my main hobby and I would need some schooling..  You know, like this kind of art:

 

Kind of funny you posted a picture of this box as it was one of 5 Identical box's that Patrick Edwards was making at his studio (ASFM) when I was taking a marquetry class with him. He stated he had them all pre sold at $5,000 each. All made with veneer cut on the chevalet.

 

Edited March 29, 2021 by rustynail
Patrick holding box with his assistant and his box each had there own designs

[rustynail]

On 3/27/2021 at 8:20 PM, Scrappile said:

To my knowledge there is no "marquetry group".  There are some very professional marquetry people on Lumberjocks one teaches and has a school in San Diego.  Lumberjocks is where I first started getting interested in marquetry.  This is one:http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com.  There are others...

You mention the CSFM the guy (Paul / Ship wright) who started the CSFM he had taken a class the same time I was at ASFM and went on to start the CSFM in Canada.

http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

[rustynail]

4 hours ago, meflick said:

So, I’m interested as I see this as similar to Intarsia I do but much thinner and without all the massive sanding. I’ve gotten some of the books and videos you guys have mentioned here and read them and watched them. Have not gotten a chance to try anything yet. My question is on this Chevalet tool. I understand it is “old school” and such but my question is what/how would it different, better or worse then cutting with a scroll saw? If you had a scroll saw, is there a “need” for the Chevalet does it offer something that you can’t do with the scroll saw? An advantage over the scroll saw? Or just another neat tool to do it “old school”?

The chevalet is one of many ways to cut.  With the chevalet you can cut very small and intricate pieces, also you have a lot of control due to you control the cut speed. A hand coping saw is similar as if you look at the chevalet you can see the arm and it looks like a coping saw but with the chevalet the arm (coping saw part) is mounted with its articulating movement so you have tremendous accuracy and control.  Also, it cuts perfectly at 90 degrees which is key to assembling the piece once cut out. Also, unlike intarsia there is no sanding. Once cut it just assembles like a puzzle, assemble is the easy part. You can cut on a Scrollsaw but not to this degree as I have done both, but you can do great work on a Scrollsaw.

[meflick]

Thanks guys. Thanks Richard for the video and additional info. would be interesting to see one in person and give it a whirl to cut on. Maybe one day, I will give it ago with my scroll saw to start and see how I like it. I love the cutting for the Intarsia pieces, but it’s all that Sanding that gets in my way to completing a piece. Have several cut and/or partially sanded that I need to complete. I have found that when I start one, if my process gets interrupted, I have trouble getting back to all that sanding to finish.  

I just got a small pack of veneer pieces so will try something simple maybe soon.

Edited March 29, 2021 by meflick
Typo

[OCtoolguy]

4 hours ago, meflick said:

Thanks guys. Thanks Richard for the video and additional info. would be interesting to see one in person and give it a whirl to cut on. Maybe one day, I will give it ago with my scroll saw to start and see how I like it. I love the cutting for the Intarsia pieces, but it’s all that Sanding that gets in my way to completing a piece. Have several cut and/or partially sanded that I need to complete. I have found that when I start one, if my process gets interrupted, I have trouble getting back to all that sanding to finish.  

I just got a small pack of veneer pieces so will try something simple maybe soon.

That simple leaf/stem seems to be the first project for learners. You mentioned that you have the book that I recommended. That's where you want to start. It's fun and NO sanding.

[meflick]

Ok, just a couple quick questions regarding “tools”. Do you Need the veneer tape, the roller, the veneer knife, etc. that are sold or not really? Other options for tape or tools? Specific glue needed or regular Titebond wood glue I would already have fine? I was at our local Woodcraft earlier (because I was close by) and looked at the veneer tape (which I got), the veneer knife and roller (which I did not get.) Just want to make sure I have what I will need. Finally, is it better to do the “Pad” or “stack” method or the double-bevel method or just a personal preference?

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, meflick said:

Ok, just a couple quick questions regarding “tools”. Do you Need the veneer tape, the roller, the veneer knife, etc. that are sold or not really? Other options for tape or tools? Specific glue needed or regular Titebond wood glue I would already have fine? I was at our local Woodcraft earlier (because I was close by) and looked at the veneer tape (which I got), the veneer knife and roller (which I did not get.) Just want to make sure I have what I will need. Finally, is it better to do the “Pad” or “stack” method or the double-bevel method or just a personal preference?

If you have a scroll saw, some veneers, some glue (any wood glue) and a pattern, the only thing I can think of is tracing paper, and some carbon paper. Yes, they still make it. I strongly suggest that you read the book first. At least once so that you can get a good mental picture of what you will be doing. I'm left handed so I have to more or less reverse everything. It's really not a mystery and once you read the book and actually do it, you'll be amazed at how easy it is. I've not done the "package" style yet but I'm going to give that a try after watching a video on it. The main thing is learning where to drill your holes so that they start on the "keep" side and exit on the "waste" side. I am using a little jeweler's drill holder but I'm going to buy a really good fine needle scribe to "poke" the holes rather than drill them. In the thicker veneers that I learned on, it would have been difficult to poke the holes so we used that little pin vise affair. The most important thing I can stress at this point is READ the BOOK! And I don't use the tape.

 

 

[rustynail]

On 2/6/2021 at 10:58 AM, Matt B said:

Based on this thread, I ordered the videos and booklets from Paul Schurch this morning.  The videos are very high quality. The camera show exactly what Paul is describing as he works.  The editing is proper and professional.  The information in the videos are recapped in the booklets.   I watched about 30 minutes of the Marquetry techniques video and so far it is very clear on how to perform the process.

The way the ordering process works is that you order and pay on his website.  The cost is $60.00 for the two videos and the two booklets.  About five minutes after paying,  you receive a link to the two videos and two booklets.  You download the videos and booklets to your computer. The videos are in a zip format, so you will need to extract the videos. I have a high speed internet connection and the whole process of downloading and extracting took less than five minutes.

My thoughts are the videos and the companion booklets are of a high quality and will provide the information needed to get started and to learn how to do marquetry.  I would prefer to have a hands-on class, but that is not happening right now. The price of $60.00 seems appropriate based upon the high quality and the amount of information provided.

 

meflick, Get the videos if you really want to learn or I feel  you will be wasting a lot of time and effort 

Edited March 30, 2021 by rustynail
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[rustynail]

3 hours ago, meflick said:

Ok, just a couple quick questions regarding “tools”. Do you Need the veneer tape, the roller, the veneer knife, etc. that are sold or not really? Other options for tape or tools? Specific glue needed or regular Titebond wood glue I would already have fine? I was at our local Woodcraft earlier (because I was close by) and looked at the veneer tape (which I got), the veneer knife and roller (which I did not get.) Just want to make sure I have what I will need. Finally, is it better to do the “Pad” or “stack” method or the double-bevel method or just a personal preference?

I use veneer tape on every marquetry project I have done unless I am using hide glue then not so much. Veneer tape works for all sort of thing during the process, and comes off very easy with water, scraper or sander. Blue tape is a must as well. But should not be used during glue ups. Not sure what you mean by veneer knife. An exacto knife or hobby knife is used a lot though. Package cutting is the easiest as all the pieces fit just back together like a puzzle just make sure your saw is 90 degrees and cutting up and down and not front to back or angled 

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, rustynail said:

I use veneer tape on every marquetry project I have done unless I am using hide glue then not so much. Veneer tape works for all sort of thing during the process, and comes off very easy with water, scraper or sander. Blue tape is a must as well. But should not be used during glue ups. Not sure what you mean by veneer knife. An exacto knife or hobby knife is used a lot though. Package cutting is the easiest as all the pieces fit just back together like a puzzle just make sure your saw is 90 degrees and cutting up and down and not front to back or angled 

Not sure about that "not angled". The one that we did in the class required angling the table at 8 degrees if I recall. 

[rustynail]

9 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Not sure about that "not angled". The one that we did in the class required angling the table at 8 degrees if I recall. 

 Ray you are correct if you are doing the double bevel technique and cutting each piece in one at a time, but if you are doing packet cutting you cut all the pieces of veneer at once up to about 16 different species of veneer and just assemble them to together like a puzzle at 90 degrees were as the double bevel cut they are cut one at a time and fit together like a cork in a bottle due to the 8 degree angle. Lots of different techniques as everyone seems to have there preference. knife, packet, double bevel, coping saw, chevalet, laser, and so on. I think the packet cut is the easiest to learn especially for a scroller 

[meflick]

@rustynailand @octoolguyRichard and Ray - thanks - I have gotten those books and videos right after Paul started this thread almost two months ago now. I read them and watched them as soon as I got them. I also found other sources, info. and books and reviewed them and read more (I will list some of those later when I get a chance to sit down and compile.) I tend to do a lot of research, reading, watching, exploring on something like this before I attempt it. Since I watched the videos and read those books back a month or so ago, we took a vacation away and I’ve had several other things going on so just this week I started looking at this again when I ordered and got some veneer pieces in so just looking to clarify somethings like tapes, glue, etc. before I give it a try with some simple things. Blame the lawyer in me I guess. I plan to go back to the videos and books to review the basics. One of my biggest questions for myself is which way to go, with the packet method, or the double bevel method. I understand the difference and how each works just not sure if one way was better for a beginner then another. I have stack cut on my saw and done Intarsia. 
 

Richard, this is the knife or saw I was referring to: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/4200-veneer-hand-saw

I have also seen where some use transfer tape (like used in tshirt transfers or auto industry) in place of veneer tape. I have some of that on hand and may try it at some point.

Ray, as I’ve said before I’m a “jack of all trades and master of none” so I have tracing paper and carbon paper on hand for other hobby projects I do. So I think I have all the basics I need to give it a whirl soon. Just have to muster up the courage. Also Ray, I’m left handed too and completely understand the reversing everything. Might explain a lot about us.
 

thanks again to you both and all who have contributed information on this thread. I will let you know when I’ve given it a try.

[Rockytime]

Ah, you left handed people. Welcome to my world. Do you also have problems with writing on spiral notebooks and three ring binders? 

[meflick]

1 hour ago, Rockytime said:

Ah, you left handed people. Welcome to my world. Do you also have problems with writing on spiral notebooks and three ring binders? 

Nope, I learned to “adapt” by just slightly titling to the side to keep it out of the way.  I didn’t flip my notebooks upside down and write upside down to avoid that issue.  Always found that strange. However, my writing tended to slant back to the left. But often had ink or pencil smeared on side of hand as it slides across what you just wrote. But that’s okay as we are at least in our right minds. I was only lefty in my immediate family. Had a cousin who was left handed, we had a great grandmother who was left handed. My son is left handed, I told him sorry as being a lefty is not good for many sports especially with many old biases out there.

Back on topic - in my online perusing I ran across this article on Paul Schurch and how he got started and trained in marquetry. It was interesting article.

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-how-to/design-drawing-furniture-styles/the-marquetry-magic-of-paul-schurch

Edited March 30, 2021 by meflick

[Trapper John]

Wow - a lot of interesting comments here.  I am curious (or stubborn) enough to attempt both knife/window technique and the bevel cut approach with my scroll saw.  I see advantages to both techniques.  Knife work requires a different kind of deliberacy; pressure, blade quality and sharpness, and cutting angle are more deliberate and obviously slower.  Using a fret saw and chevalet are even more traditional.  This approach allows the ultimate in speed and control.

At this point I am not smart enough to do more than observe and question.  For example, I am not at all sure about why a simple bird's mouth is not as favored as a chevalet.  For me the two methods that I have worked with have shown me that patience is as important as method, and the jury is out on which I prefer.  Ultimately the answer to that question will require more time.

[OCtoolguy]

38 minutes ago, meflick said:

Nope, I learned to “adapt” by just slightly titling to the side to keep it out of the way.  I didn’t flip my notebooks upside down and write upside down to avoid that issue.  Always found that strange. However, my writing tended to slant back to the left. But often had ink or pencil smeared on side of hand as it slides across what you just wrote. But that’s okay as we are at least in our right minds. I was only lefty in my immediate family. Had a cousin who was left handed, we had a great grandmother who was left handed. My son is left handed, I told him sorry as being a lefty is not good for many sports especially with many old biases out there.

Back on topic - in my online perusing I ran across this article on Paul Schurch and how he got started and trained in marquetry. It was interesting article.

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-how-to/design-drawing-furniture-styles/the-marquetry-magic-of-paul-schurch

Thanks, a great informative article. I sure wish he had finished the youtube series that he started. He left many people wanting more but it never came.