Blade Question Pegas Modified Geometry

[harpolemond]

Will do my best to get three images in here.

Bought a half gross of #2/0 Pegas modified Geometry known as the M/G blade.

All over the net scrollers are in love with this blade and it appears those who do a varied type of works.

So:  I do a variety of types of cuts myself,  and found this blade to be about the same as a certain few others, which leads to my question.  This blade is not nearly as aggressive or accurate as a couple of the FD blade types I have so there has to be a problem.

     Even though I know that advertisements on the net are overbearing, and many companies are paid to place certain products up front and tout their wonderful attributes, there are still those single folks out there that are totally very good at their work and they also are touting this blade.  I am not a newbie to scrolling.  My work is sometimes extremely intricate and detailed. So keeping in mind so many love this blade, and I am not new to this sport, what on earth is going on?

    I cannot find anywhere on the net a very detailed description of the tooth layout of these blades. All I found was how wonderful the new modified geometry of the blade is and that it provides so much good work with no burnouts, lasts longer.  etc. But no where could I find a description of the tooth design or layout.  I see pics with the blade cut off with three teeth facing right and the rest left with everything in between not shown.  I cannot find a total blade pic or a pic of the center of those blades.  Soooo.  I got my Canon SLR out and went to work on a macro. This is what I found. And it looks this way under magnification as well.

   Turns out that every other tooth appears to be, "blunted"  and only about half the height of tooth before it.

In other words, every other tooth is sharp, and every other tooth has a blunted and not sharp point. In fact every other tooth is only half as high and has no sharp point.  sooo

Not saying what company I ordered from but it is reputable.  Many of us use it from time to time.  Are these blades the MGs or did I get some duds? I really don't know as I have never seen anything like this before.....

   I did a negative image of one of these pics to help with the sharpness thing.  You can clearly see the teeth in image 5 two teeth located in the center of these blades. One is quite sharp and the next is only half the height and duller.  Could use a little help here as this blade is new to me and I always want to learn more  thnx in advance as I am sure someone here know something. 

[harpolemond]

Just now, harpolemond said:

Will do my best to get three images in here.

Bought a half gross of #2/0 Pegas modified Geometry known as the M/G blade.

All over the net scrollers are in love with this blade and it appears those who do a varied type of works.

So:  I do a variety of types of cuts myself,  and found this blade to be about the same as a certain few others, which leads to my question.  This blade is not nearly as aggressive or accurate as a couple of the FD blade types I have so there has to be a problem.

     Even though I know that advertisements on the net are overbearing, and many companies are paid to place certain products up front and tout their wonderful attributes, there are still those single folks out there that are totally very good at their work and they also are touting this blade.  I am not a newbie to scrolling.  My work is sometimes extremely intricate and detailed. So keeping in mind so many love this blade, and I am not new to this sport, what on earth is going on?

    I cannot find anywhere on the net a very detailed description of the tooth layout of these blades. All I found was how wonderful the new modified geometry of the blade is and that it provides so much good work with no burnouts, lasts longer.  etc. But no where could I find a description of the tooth design or layout.  I see pics with the blade cut off with three teeth facing right and the rest left with everything in between not shown.  I cannot find a total blade pic or a pic of the center of those blades.  Soooo.  I got my Canon SLR out and went to work on a macro. This is what I found. And it looks this way under magnification as well.

   Turns out that every other tooth appears to be, "blunted"  and only about half the height of tooth before it.

In other words, every other tooth is sharp, and every other tooth has a blunted and not sharp point. In fact every other tooth is only half as high and has no sharp point.  sooo

Not saying what company I ordered from but it is reputable.  Many of us use it from time to time.  Are these blades the MGs or did I get some duds? I really don't know as I have never seen anything like this before.....

   I did a negative image of one of these pics to help with the sharpness thing.  You can clearly see the teeth in image 5 two teeth located in the center of these blades. One is quite sharp and the next is only half the height and duller.  Could use a little help here as this blade is new to me and I always want to learn more  thnx in advance as I am sure someone here know something. 

Almost forgot folks, these are brand new out of the half gross set

[kmmcrafts]

Believe that is how they are made ( I think ).. I see that blunted one on my larger blades.. What gets me with these Pegas blades is they are never consistent.. (ie not every blade I use has that blunt ( I don't think ) and sometimes it's only a portion of the blade that way while other times the whole length is that way.. I don't get it.. BUT I never looked at them so closely either and it could be my old eyes messing with my brain, LOL. But that said.. they still are not consistent as in the length.. some have a pointy tip like they didn't get snipped correctly.. some don't have that and sometimes the longer snipped part is on the top of the blade while other times it's on the bottom of the blade.. at one time it was said they made them that way on purpose to distinguish the top / bottom of the blade but they need to make up their mind on which end is going to be marked and keep it that way.. Many folks may not notice this stuff because they run a saw that clamps the blade differently than the Hawk saw does.. most times I have to take a pair of side cutters and cut off a portion of the blade for it to fit into my saw.. had one the other day that was only 4" long instead of 5" LOL what the heck?

While they all have always cut really well for me.. I do tend to break more of them in my Hawk than the Excalibur and also never break a FD blade in my Hawk so they aren't as strong of a blade they do stay sharp a long time for me.. I like them... but I'm also more impressed with the consistent FD blades.. Never had to fuss with cutting the blade to get the right length to work in my saw.. always know what the top of the blade is with the mark that they stamp on the FD blades..  I think I'm close to being done with Pegas blades.. I've mentioned it to Bob in the past and there was always a excuse reason for the inconsistency.. Great cutting blades but can live without them as FD blades are just about as good of cutting blade too.. and consistency matters.. at least to me it does.. 

Another peeve for me is.. hardly any sellers of the Pegas blades mention what the smallest drill hole should be to use for a said size blade.. Any selling site for FD I've been on list that size drill bit for the said blade size in the description.. While all of these are kind of petty things to some people.. I guess I just find it annoying to have to cut the blades to length to make them work in my saw.. The Hawk is designed to bottom the blade out in the blade holders / clamps and then adjust the saw tension and after that you have the correct / same tension every time you change a blade.. But when the blades are not consistent length that screws that all up.. and you never really get it right cutting the blades too. This is not an issue with saws like the Pegas, EX, Dewalt etc.. as you don't bottom out the blade in the holders..

[harpolemond]

1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

Believe that is how they are made ( I think ).. I see that blunted one on my larger blades.. What gets me with these Pegas blades is they are never consistent.. (ie not every blade I use has that blunt ( I don't think ) and sometimes it's only a portion of the blade that way while other times the whole length is that way.. I don't get it.. BUT I never looked at them so closely either and it could be my old eyes messing with my brain, LOL. But that said.. they still are not consistent as in the length.. some have a pointy tip like they didn't get snipped correctly.. some don't have that and sometimes the longer snipped part is on the top of the blade while other times it's on the bottom of the blade.. at one time it was said they made them that way on purpose to distinguish the top / bottom of the blade but they need to make up their mind on which end is going to be marked and keep it that way.. Many folks may not notice this stuff because they run a saw that clamps the blade differently than the Hawk saw does.. most times I have to take a pair of side cutters and cut off a portion of the blade for it to fit into my saw.. had one the other day that was only 4" long instead of 5" LOL what the heck?

While they all have always cut really well for me.. I do tend to break more of them in my Hawk than the Excalibur and also never break a FD blade in my Hawk so they aren't as strong of a blade they do stay sharp a long time for me.. I like them... but I'm also more impressed with the consistent FD blades.. Never had to fuss with cutting the blade to get the right length to work in my saw.. always know what the top of the blade is with the mark that they stamp on the FD blades..  I think I'm close to being done with Pegas blades.. I've mentioned it to Bob in the past and there was always a excuse reason for the inconsistency.. Great cutting blades but can live without them as FD blades are just about as good of cutting blade too.. and consistency matters.. at least to me it does.. 

Another peeve for me is.. hardly any sellers of the Pegas blades mention what the smallest drill hole should be to use for a said size blade.. Any selling site for FD I've been on list that size drill bit for the said blade size in the description.. While all of these are kind of petty things to some people.. I guess I just find it annoying to have to cut the blades to length to make them work in my saw.. The Hawk is designed to bottom the blade out in the blade holders / clamps and then adjust the saw tension and after that you have the correct / same tension every time you change a blade.. But when the blades are not consistent length that screws that all up.. and you never really get it right cutting the blades too. This is not an issue with saws like the Pegas, EX, Dewalt etc.. as you don't bottom out the blade in the holders..

I somewhat agree Kevin. Glad I only bought a half gross of these.  I have about three dozen left. I have found complaints about the Pegas blades elsewhere, but I do have some skips that seem to be much more consistent.

Blade breakage for these blades also do seem to be a problem.

That said If I mount six of these blades, [Jet has multiple separate mounts] I could go through all of those pretty quickly, but since they are not mounted as I go but six at a time I loose sight of how they truly preform.  But I definitely found these blades not to be up to the standards of some I regularly use. Won first place at the IL state fair in 2019 with an excalibur and FD superior puzzle blades and with Sharktooth 3/0.  I think Sharktooth is made by Olson but don't quote me. They are killer and the FDs are some of the best I have in my stock. I don't use any other Olson blade

I am in agreement with you about the FDs.  I Don't use reverse blades since my Jet doesn't seem to allow those five bottom teeth to contact the wood, so I do my fretwork with the FDs and Sharktooth.  Niqua is FD I believe.

Thanks for the info. Seemed to me to be one of the oddest things I have encountered recently. Dull points every other tooth?  Very odd and I have three dozen of these. Prob throw them away

Now I have watched videos of blades being made. Rolls of steel wire fed into the machine and stamped out. Then cut.  Depending on blade then they are heated and freeze cooled?  Something like that. But at the end of one video they made a statement I didn't wanna hear.  When the stamper that cuts the teeth out has gone through some time of use, they become inconsistent. The stamper doesn't cut nearly as sharp ending in less sharp blades and becoming inconstant.   This may be what I encountered but even so where is the quality control?   TY again for your post

 

 

[Joe W.]

2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Another peeve for me is.. hardly any sellers of the Pegas blades mention what the smallest drill hole should be to use for a said size blade.. Any selling site for FD I've been on list that size drill bit for the said blade size in the description.. 

Hi, I found this in my download folder while housekeeping my folders and remembered this message.  The list is not complete but I thought it might help a little, drill size wise. 

SS_BLADE_CHART_2-22-2013.pdf

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, harpolemond said:

I somewhat agree Kevin. Glad I only bought a half gross of these.  I have about three dozen left. I have found complaints about the Pegas blades elsewhere, but I do have some skips that seem to be much more consistent.

Blade breakage for these blades also do seem to be a problem.

That said If I mount six of these blades, [Jet has multiple separate mounts] I could go through all of those pretty quickly, but since they are not mounted as I go but six at a time I loose sight of how they truly preform.  But I definitely found these blades not to be up to the standards of some I regularly use. Won first place at the IL state fair in 2019 with an excalibur and FD superior puzzle blades and with Sharktooth 3/0.  I think Sharktooth is made by Olson but don't quote me. They are killer and the FDs are some of the best I have in my stock. I don't use any other Olson blade

I am in agreement with you about the FDs.  I Don't use reverse blades since my Jet doesn't seem to allow those five bottom teeth to contact the wood, so I do my fretwork with the FDs and Sharktooth.  Niqua is FD I believe.

Thanks for the info. Seemed to me to be one of the oddest things I have encountered recently. Dull points every other tooth?  Very odd and I have three dozen of these. Prob throw them away

Now I have watched videos of blades being made. Rolls of steel wire fed into the machine and stamped out. Then cut.  Depending on blade then they are heated and freeze cooled?  Something like that. But at the end of one video they made a statement I didn't wanna hear.  When the stamper that cuts the teeth out has gone through some time of use, they become inconsistent. The stamper doesn't cut nearly as sharp ending in less sharp blades and becoming inconstant.   This may be what I encountered but even so where is the quality control?   TY again for your post

 

 

Don't get me wrong, I like the blades.. and I've had very little issue with them in the Excalibur and minimal issues with the Hawk.. Biggest complaint from me is the inconsistent length.. I like the cutting better than the FD blades.. but I'm not sure I like it enough to have to keep trimming off the ends so they actually work in the Hawk saws..  

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, Joe W. said:

Hi, I found this in my download folder while housekeeping my folders and remembered this message.  The list is not complete but I thought it might help a little, drill size wise. 

SS_BLADE_CHART_2-22-2013.pdf 211.47 kB · 1 download

Yeah I have that chart too somewhere.. I suppose it'd do better if I'd print it and have it in the shop and by my computer..LOL

[harpolemond]

3 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah I have that chart too somewhere.. I suppose it'd do better if I'd print it and have it in the shop and by my computer..LOL

ty

[harpolemond]

Just now, harpolemond said:

ty for the chart I didn't have this and it will help with pilot holes

 

[harpolemond]

3 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Don't get me wrong, I like the blades.. and I've had very little issue with them in the Excalibur and minimal issues with the Hawk.. Biggest complaint from me is the inconsistent length.. I like the cutting better than the FD blades.. but I'm not sure I like it enough to have to keep trimming off the ends so they actually work in the Hawk saws..  

Actually I am not giving up on Pegas as yet, but a half gross of blades all like this?  Probably will try just a single dozen in the future. If it is the same then I will know.  I do have other Pegas I like. Some skips.  but otherwise I use FDs and Sharktooths.   I stay away from regular Olsons but those PGTs are pretty nice for a straight cut

I just was curious as to if this was the norm for this blade and did I get a dud set  thnx for all the replies

 

[Foxfold]

I must admit, I too bought these blades although only a dozen, just to try.  I spoke about them here.

 

[ike]

I used the pegas blades several years ago and I had a problem with breakage and short life. So I went back to Olson's match bladesThey very seldom break and last longer than any other blade  the olson last for about 40 minuts I have had some that lasteed a little over an hour . I cut mostly at about 75% speed. I useallly go thru a gross of #5  in a year. I cut every day for 4 or 5 hours between March and november. I could not do that with a pegas blade. I never go by the way the blade is design I just go by the amount of blades I go thru in a days time.

IKE

[OzarkSawdust]

I'll have to look at what I was using before Pegas...but I couldn't cut a straight line to save my life. I would have to turn the material 30-40* to try and cut it. I switched to Pegas MGs and have no trouble cutting straight now. Don't know the detailed geometry behind it, geometry makes my head hurt, just want to make nice easy cuts. 

I don't seem to have the touch, or pay attention with my music cranked up, to know exactly when the blade dulls and should be changed. I change it when I notice I'm pushing it a little harder. I start a pattern with a new blade, most of the time, and if I'm pushing harder or the cuts are a little "fuzzy" I change. When I get ready to cut the piece away from the main board I put in a fresh blade. The only blade breaks I notice are when I've left a #1 in for a lot of cutting. All this applies to straight blades...Don't think I've ever left one of those "evil spiral blades" in long enough to get dull!

That being said I would be open to trying a dozen of something else if it cut straight, turned sharp, and didn't splinter.

[kmmcrafts]

5 hours ago, OzarkSawdust said:

I'll have to look at what I was using before Pegas...but I couldn't cut a straight line to save my life. I would have to turn the material 30-40* to try and cut it. I switched to Pegas MGs and have no trouble cutting straight now. Don't know the detailed geometry behind it, geometry makes my head hurt, just want to make nice easy cuts. 

I don't seem to have the touch, or pay attention with my music cranked up, to know exactly when the blade dulls and should be changed. I change it when I notice I'm pushing it a little harder. I start a pattern with a new blade, most of the time, and if I'm pushing harder or the cuts are a little "fuzzy" I change. When I get ready to cut the piece away from the main board I put in a fresh blade. The only blade breaks I notice are when I've left a #1 in for a lot of cutting. All this applies to straight blades...Don't think I've ever left one of those "evil spiral blades" in long enough to get dull!

That being said I would be open to trying a dozen of something else if it cut straight, turned sharp, and didn't splinter.

All blades cut straight if the person behind the saw is cutting straight 

If you're used to the Pegas you probably wont like many other blades.. I know my previous post sounds like I don't like them.. but I do.. they are my favorite blade.. Now if they could make them all the same length I'd be much happier about them.. Maybe I just need to get rid of these Hawk saws as they are the only saw that gives me trouble about the blade length, LOL I do love the way they cut.. But it's really annoying that they are different lengths many times.. when other blades are all consistent in length..

[Rolf]

I am currently working on a blade presentation for our Scrolling club. 

I have started to use more Pegas blades as I go along.  Unfortunately one of the resources I lost after retiring was the digital Microscopes on my workbench, or I would get some really great images. 

But here are a few I took with my cell phone. Comparing  a 2/0R Olson 28TPI and the Pegas MGT 2/0R 

Kevin I never noticed any length differences. On the Hawk I tweak the tension for each new blade if need be. On the EX 16 with Pegas clamps I lower the blade a bit in the upper clamp to back off on the tension a bit, or the EX seems to over tension the small blades, I get no excessive breakage.

Ike the Olson Mach series is a great blade.  I also still use the Olson 2/0 R 28TPI blade for my Detailed  Ornament stacks The BB birch kills those blades. 10 to 15 minutes and they are dull and or will pop.  The Pegas MGT 2/0 cuts much faster and lasts longer for me.

Kevin for drill hole sizes. I just look at the blade width and look at a number drill chart #72  (0.025) is good for my small Pegas 2/0. Or a #68 (.031) if I want a bit more room I have a huge machinist drill chart on my wall. 

 

[kmmcrafts]

22 minutes ago, Rolf said:

I am currently working on a blade presentation for our Scrolling club. 

I have started to use more Pegas blades as I go along.  Unfortunately one of the resources I lost after retiring was the digital Microscopes on my workbench, or I would get some really great images. 

But here are a few I took with my cell phone. Comparing  a 2/0R Olson 28TPI and the Pegas MGT 2/0R 

Kevin I never noticed any length differences. On the Hawk I tweak the tension for each new blade if need be. On the EX 16 with Pegas clamps I lower the blade a bit in the upper clamp to back off on the tension a bit, or the EX seems to over tension the small blades, I get no excessive breakage.

Ike the Olson Mach series is a great blade.  I also still use the Olson 2/0 R 28TPI blade for my Detailed  Ornament stacks The BB birch kills those blades. 10 to 15 minutes and they are dull and or will pop.  The Pegas MGT 2/0 cuts much faster and lasts longer for me.

Kevin for drill hole sizes. I just look at the blade width and look at a number drill chart #72  (0.025) is good for my small Pegas 2/0. Or a #68 (.031) if I want a bit more room I have a huge machinist drill chart on my wall. 

 

Rolf, I posted these pictures a couple years back when I had a bad batch of Pegas #5 blades.. The bad batch had that notch about an inch down from the tip.. But look at the tip of the blade.. It's not clean cut and flat on the end.. It has a thinner portion that is kind of pointy... This is how my #3 Pegas blades have been for the past couple years.. Maybe the blades I've been buying are all old stock and they aren't messed up anymore like this.. But anyway.. that pointed extension is longer and shorter from one blade to the next and some blades don't have that at all..

In the Hawk as you know you bottom out the blade in the lower clamp.. then pull the upper arm down to it comes to the stop pin on the upper arm.. that sets your tension.. you adjust small amounts for smaller / bigger blades.. but you never should need to adjust every blade you put in the saw provided they are all the same size.. in my case I mostly use the #3 MG blade.. none of them for the past two years or more have been consistent in length.. I buy my blade 2-4 gross at a time.. so maybe just have some of those from a bad batch they ran a while back.. I complained to Bear wood a couple years ago about the #5 blades shown in this picture.. and they sent me a new batch which was better because that notch was gone.. but all the #3 blades have been this way that I've ordered over the last couple years.. Maybe they have this issue fixed now.. I haven't ordered since late spring / early summer of 2020 when I ordered 3 gross of the #3's and all those was this way too.. I've since run about out of Pegas blades and have been using up old batches of the FD-UR blades that I've had for years just trying to use them up.. It's tempting to just stick with the FD blades as this gets old having to either cut the end of every Pegas blade to make it work in the Hawk.. Been nice to run those FD blades lately as they have been consistent in length..

[Scrappile]

All my Pegas "Skip" and "doubled skip" blades I have, have that Configuration at the top of the blades,,, without the notch lower down... I like it because it tells me easily which way is up and I don't have to grind a point at the top,,,, I do that on all my blades,,, helps when bottom feeding...  I just got the "double skip" last month,,,, the "skip" ones I received a couple months ago..

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, Scrappile said:

All my Pegas "Skip" and "doubled skip" blades I have, have that Configuration at the top of the blades,,, without the notch lower down... I like it because it tells me easily which way is up and I don't have to grind a point at the top,,,, I do that on all my blades,,, helps when bottom feeding...  I just got the "double skip" last month,,,, the "skip" ones I received a couple months ago..

When they first started coming like this it was mentioned that it was a marking to know which end is top... However I've had blades that don't have it at all.. some that have it on both ends and some just on the top or bottom.. That is why I say there is not consistency to the over all length.. nor is there any specific reason for the pointed end if it's not consistent to the top or bottom of the blade.. Maybe the last few I've bought over the last 3 years was bad.. they cut great.. no issues there.. and no issues when using the Excalibur as you can position the blade in the clamps where ever you like so long as it reaches both the clamping screws on both top and bottom..  The Hawk is designed to bottom the blade out in the lower clamp.. then pull the upper arm down and bottom the blade out into the upper clamp.. once setting the tension for said blade it's good for all that style and size blade.. But very annoying when the blades are all different lengths.. as a longer blade is tensioned too loose and you end up breaking it.. too short a blade same thing.. so every blade has to adjust the saws tension..

Edited February 9, 2021 by kmmcrafts

[harpolemond]

On 2/9/2021 at 4:27 PM, kmmcrafts said:

Rolf, I posted these pictures a couple years back when I had a bad batch of Pegas #5 blades.. The bad batch had that notch about an inch down from the tip.. But look at the tip of the blade.. It's not clean cut and flat on the end.. It has a thinner portion that is kind of pointy... This is how my #3 Pegas blades have been for the past couple years.. Maybe the blades I've been buying are all old stock and they aren't messed up anymore like this.. But anyway.. that pointed extension is longer and shorter from one blade to the next and some blades don't have that at all..

In the Hawk as you know you bottom out the blade in the lower clamp.. then pull the upper arm down to it comes to the stop pin on the upper arm.. that sets your tension.. you adjust small amounts for smaller / bigger blades.. but you never should need to adjust every blade you put in the saw provided they are all the same size.. in my case I mostly use the #3 MG blade.. none of them for the past two years or more have been consistent in length.. I buy my blade 2-4 gross at a time.. so maybe just have some of those from a bad batch they ran a while back.. I complained to Bear wood a couple years ago about the #5 blades shown in this picture.. and they sent me a new batch which was better because that notch was gone.. but all the #3 blades have been this way that I've ordered over the last couple years.. Maybe they have this issue fixed now.. I haven't ordered since late spring / early summer of 2020 when I ordered 3 gross of the #3's and all those was this way too.. I've since run about out of Pegas blades and have been using up old batches of the FD-UR blades that I've had for years just trying to use them up.. It's tempting to just stick with the FD blades as this gets old having to either cut the end of every Pegas blade to make it work in the Hawk.. Been nice to run those FD blades lately as they have been consistent in length..

I would like to see your full presentation on this. As far as I know we have no club around Springfield IL. Where I am from.  did you do it in ms powerpoint or open office?  If so many of us have those programs to both read and save the presentations and view them on the computer.  Open office is free and reads ms office powerpoints and can even edit and save them   so if you did a powerpoint computer presentation, I imagine many of us could read it and would love to pic your brain on this.  I am always open to comparison and ideas. I have pretty much stopped using pegas on my Jet. I have found that the Olson sharktooth and FD/Niqua are my go to blades for most of the work I do.  But I am always open to ideas. 

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, harpolemond said:

I would like to see your full presentation on this. As far as I know we have no club around Springfield IL. Where I am from.  did you do it in ms powerpoint or open office?  If so many of us have those programs to both read and save the presentations and view them on the computer.  Open office is free and reads ms office powerpoints and can even edit and save them   so if you did a powerpoint computer presentation, I imagine many of us could read it and would love to pic your brain on this.  I am always open to comparison and ideas. I have pretty much stopped using pegas on my Jet. I have found that the Olson sharktooth and FD/Niqua are my go to blades for most of the work I do.  But I am always open to ideas. 

I think you meant to quote @Rolf as he is the one that was talking about doing a presentation..

[ben2008]

I have been using Olson blades most all my scrollin' life. That is many, many years. They work for me and I will continue to use them. Yes, i have tried others and i really don't see that much of a difference on my 29 year old RBI. I must have my Hawk fine tuned to the Olson blades. Since I do more Intarsia now, I find the Olson PGT and Mach blades work the best for me on my Hawk, especially with 3/4" lumber. I have decided (some time ago) to stop jumping around trying to find the perfect blade all the time and just stick with what I already know.  I still have many FD, Pegas, JGR blades to use up though. I'm no expert on any of these blades, all i know is what works best for me.  Just my opinion.

One final comment. When I started in 1967 there were no FD, Pegas, Niqua, JGR blades. Only Olson and Eberle blades were available back then. Maybe some Sears and Montgomery Wards blades also. Never used those. There may have been others too that I didn't know about. I remember my very first project with my Dremel Moto-Shop and Olson pinned blades. It was a silouette of a Amish wagon and horse. I was really proud of the cutout. I wish I had a picture of it. That was back in the 1960s. It looked just like this. 
 

 

Edited February 11, 2021 by ben2008

[Rockytime]

Cool, cool video!

[SteveS]

That's my first scroll saw but I think mine was labelled "Craftsman".  Nice video. Steve

[Rolf]

Harpolemond,  Since I am not doing a live presentation I will not be doing a power point. This will be a Zoom presentation for club members only. Even when we were still meeting I usually just worked with an outline and winged it.  The only time I did more formal presentations was at the Fox Chapel open houses. I used power point there. 

I am lucky to be a member of the Long Island Woodworkers club. It incorporates all forms of woodworking. We have several special interest groups S.I.G.s scrollers, turners, carvers cabinet makers etc.  I have learned so much from this group. My learning curve was dramatically accelerated when I joined in 2002. We have scrollers that have been at it for over 60+ years.  

A bit of bragging here. We have a carver that has had several articles in Woodcarving Illustrated, Furniture makers in Fine woodworking magazine and there are three of us that do test cutting for SSWWC magazine. I have done a fair number of project for the magazine since 2010. I had no idea the this wonderful hobby has taken me where it has.

 

Bottom line. If you have a local club join it,  if you don't maybe form one.