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Looking for opinion on table saw- UPDATE


ben2008

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I'm really embarrassed about this. I thought (my first mistake) my Jet table saw just died. It slowed down to a crawl and just quit. It never tripped the breaker. I felt the motor and it was extremely hot.  I just assumed it was shot. That was my 2nd mistake. Anyway. a few  days later ( Monday evening) i decided to take a look at my owners manual. Lo and behold it has a reset switch on the motor. I never saw it because it was covered in saw dust. My 3rd mistake. I pushed it and reset the motor. I'm now back up and running. Saw is all cleaned up also.

Sorry for the panic. My only excuse is I'm 81 and getting old and things just don't work like they used too including my brain. I want to thank everyone for the comments and offer to help. I'll try not to jump to conclusions in the future.

Thanks again everyone

PS: Everyone is so kind and helpfull on this forum.

Ben

Edited by ben2008
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On 2/9/2021 at 10:39 PM, ben2008 said:

I'm really embarrassed about this. I thought (my first mistake) my Jet table saw just died. It slowed down to a crawl and just quit. It never tripped the breaker. I felt the motor and it was extremely hot.  I just assumed it was shot. That was my 2nd mistake. Anyway. a few  days later ( Monday evening) i decided to take a look at my owners manual. Lo and behold it has a reset switch on the motor. I never saw it because it was covered in saw dust. My 3rd mistake. I pushed it and reset the motor. I'm now back up and running. Saw is all cleaned up also.

Sorry for the panic. My only excuse is I'm 81 and getting old and things just don't work like they used too including my brain. I want to thank everyone for the comments and offer to help. I'll try not to jump to conclusions in the future.

Thanks again everyone

PS: Everyone is so kind and helpfull on this forum.

Ben

Like winning the lottery....kind of. Glad you are back in bidness!

 

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6 hours ago, CharleyL said:

Why did the saw overheat? Were you overloading it, or is a bearing or two going bad?

Without power, can you spin the blade easily by hand? It may be time for new bearings.

Charley

I believe it was my fault. I was trying to cut 2" thick Sapele hardwood. Sapele is quite a dense hardwood and i should have not taken such a big bite.  I know better, but i thought i could cut the full 2 inches with no problem. I was wrong. I did cut 2 pieces but then it slowed down after that and just quit. That's when I jumped to a conclusion. I thought because it was about 25 years old it just died.

The Jet contractor saw I have is only a 1 1/2 HP older model. It cuts 2" Walnut, Cherry etc OK. It just didn't like that Sapele very much. After i discovered the reset switch and restarted the motor I took smaller bites the 2nd time around, and it is just fine now. Thanks for asking.

Ben

Edited by ben2008
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One important thing to remember when using any single phase induction motor powered tool is not to significantly slow the motor down. If you slow it to the point that the centrifugal switch kicks in the start winding, the motor will overheat and trip the protector or burn up very quickly. Never significantly slow the speed of a single phase induction motor more than about 20% of it's rated running speed. 

A blade with a larger tooth set or wider carbide will have less difficulty making the cut. The blade should be designed for the intended purpose as well. Don't cross cut with a ripping blade and don't rip with a cross cut blade. Combination blades are for those too lazy to switch blades, as they don't do either as well as the proper blade.

Charley

Edited by CharleyL
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On 2/15/2021 at 7:41 AM, CharleyL said:

One important thing to remember when using any single phase induction motor powered tool is not to significantly slow the motor down. If you slow it to the point that the centrifugal switch kicks in the start winding, the motor will overheat and trip the protector or burn up very quickly. Never significantly slow the speed of a single phase induction motor more than about 20% of it's rated running speed. 

A blade with a larger tooth set or wider carbide will have less difficulty making the cut. The blade should be designed for the intended purpose as well. Don't cross cut with a ripping blade and don't rip with a cross cut blade. Combination blades are for those too lazy to switch blades, as they don't do either as well as the proper blade.

Charley

Thanks Charley, you just denigrated a whole bunch of us "lazy" folks. I've never owned a rip blade. I guess I better buy one. And then a crosscut blade. I always used my Forrest Woodworker II blade for everything. Oh well, everyday I learn something. 

And Charley, this was all meant in jest. I have the utmost respect for your knowledge and expertise!

 

Edited by octoolguy
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17 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Thanks Charley, you just denigrated a whole bunch of us "lazy" folks. I've never owned a rip blade. I guess I better buy one. And then a crosscut blade. I always used my Forrest Woodworker II blade for everything. Oh well, everyday I learn something. 

That's the blade I use most of the time. I rip with it, and it does a great job. I have 2 of them. One is over 20 years old.

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