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Dremel Plunge Router


Joe W.

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I don't have a drill press (yet). 
And I have difficulty drilling a straight hole- discovered when I started making starter holes with my hand drill for the practice pieces I was working on.  So, I looked around and found the Dremel Plunge Router. 
Just got it in today and tried it out.  
I like it - small and portable and easy to use with small drill bits.
And who knows, I might even use it one day to do some routing work.


   

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My plunge router of choice. It is spot on as the Seyco is. Sold by StewMac as a Dremel router base. StewMac sells tools for luthiers. Expensive but worth it. I have a Dremel plunge router but it is not very tight and wanders a bit which is irritating when trying to spot drill in very small places.

20210211_122217.jpg

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On 2/12/2021 at 5:52 PM, Rockytime said:

My plunge router of choice. It is spot on as the Seyco is. Sold by StewMac as a Dremel router base. StewMac sells tools for luthiers. Expensive but worth it. I have a Dremel plunge router but it is not very tight and wanders a bit which is irritating when trying to spot drill in very small places.

20210211_122217.jpg

Les, is that the one that is on the Stew Mac web site for 68 bucks? It looks like it only has 1 spring on it?

Ben

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The plunge router, be it Dremel or others, is the way to go if you are cutting large, 11" x 14", or larger fretwork designs. The drill press can be altered to drill large pieces if you are or know a welding expert and have the steel pipes necessary to extend the "throat" opening! It has been years since  I have seen the dimensions to do that with and have no idea who had the plans to do this! It is much easier to use the small routers anyway!

Erv 

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I had 5 dremil plunge routers set up for different operations.TILL a pot of boiling dry beans spilled all over my for arm and 3 dremils . I survived terrible burns all over and around my arm but the dremils never worked again.they all the love of my life for ease of operation.

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2 minutes ago, amazingkevin said:

I had 5 dremil plunge routers set up for different operations.TILL a pot of boiling dry beans spilled all over my for arm and 3 dremils . I survived terrible burns all over and around my arm but the dremils never worked again.they all the love of my life for ease of operation.

OUCH!  Oh my gosh. That sounds awful. But here you are. That's good.

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1 minute ago, Rockytime said:

Yes it is Ben. I just modified it a bit and used new springs from Ace Hardware. Works really well.

I just may get me one for a 2nd setup or do some routing with it. I have the Dremel one and it works pretty good. The Stew Mac looks much sturdier.  I have an ACE hardware just blocks from me. Do you happen to have a part number for those springs or a web link?

Thanks for the reply 

Ben

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I don't. I just took the router with me and matched up the springs. I had to make a couple of small collars at the bottom to limit the own travel. I like the StewMac because the Dremel screws in and out of the base so easily making it easy to change drill bits. Also the size being smaller is less cumbersome than the Dremel plunge router and is used with one hand.

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2 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

I don't. I just took the router with me and matched up the springs. I had to make a couple of small collars at the bottom to limit the own travel. I like the StewMac because the Dremel screws in and out of the base so easily making it easy to change drill bits. Also the size being smaller is less cumbersome than the Dremel plunge router and is used with one hand.

Ok, thanks Les. Unfortunately, I can no longer get around to actually go to Ace. I can only stumble around my house. Haha

I'll  just stick with my Dremel and maybe buy a 2nd one for routing.

Thanks again

Ben

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37 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

At 82 I have the very same problem. I stumble around with a cane to my workshop. I am fortunate though as my Ace is inly three blocks away.

There ya go Les. A business opportunity. Have the customer send you their StewMac base and you do the alterations for a paltry $49.95 plus shipping.

 

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I have that tool from Stewmac.... Used to for building cigar box guitars and ukuleles.  But it wasn't a plunge router base... I was a screw it down to a certain depth and cut base.... I have to look at your modification.... maybe worth converting, haven't used it since my last cigar box uke I build... It is a very well build precision tool. 

Edited by Scrappile
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8 hours ago, Rockytime said:

At 82 I have the very same problem. I stumble around with a cane to my workshop. I am fortunate though as my Ace is inly three blocks away.

I too use a cane and sometimes a walker.  I'm about 9 blocks from an ACE hardware. My problem is I can't stand for more than 3 or 4 minutes. (Atherosclerosis and COPD has really put the hurt on me.) Then I have to sit. No place to sit at ACE. I really can't go anywhere anymore. Dr. office. That's about it.

I do about 95% of my woodworking, scrolling sitting down. My wife does help me carry stuff to my basement workshop. She helps whenever she can with various projects. But she is 70 and still works full time becuase she likes her job. Usually it's just me and my dog during the day. Ok, enough whining. Everyone has issues.

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I've posted this a few time before but think it is worth sharing again.

This is my solution for not having a drill press!

The Dremel drill press as is, because of it is only 3" from the bit to the post, is imparactical to use for drilling blade holes in almost any fretwork larger than 6" wide.  However, I had the idea in my head I could do something to make it work and Home Depot near me had the Dremel Drill Press/Tool Station in stock for $45.   I took a chance (knowing I could return it if I could not make it work) and bought it this morning.  After I got it home and did some investigating how I could make it work the light bulb lit up in my brain and this was the result.

941937913_Drillpress1.thumb.jpg.195d8f1cca4ff116ee38195c7fce13ef.jpg1963796947_Drillpress2.thumb.jpg.b1f60de1a1d43e96f6e2d62ddf67b0f9.jpg100408088_Drillpress3.thumb.jpg.ade207b00bbad53b207c5d6fb1459e38.jpg1176319831_Drillpress4.thumb.jpg.2a383b2511b9b3848bf2181332f71b5b.jpg

There is a shelf above my workbench that was just the correct height {Actually needs to be the height of the post plus about 2 inches] to allow me to mount the base upside down. I slid the Drill press body on the post opposite of what is normal.  The press can be rotated around the post allowing it to be swung out of the way if necessary.  I use a piece of 1/4" ply as a drill backer and set the stop so the bit will not punch into the workbench top.  Very easy to locate the bit ove the point where the hole is needed.  From the bit to the wall is about 11"  so as positioned it can accomodate panels up to about 22" wide.  

I have two Dremel Rotary Tools so this one will be a dedicated drill for drilling blade holes, although the tool holder body can be rotated up to 90 degrees and used for other operations. 

I don't think I will be braking as many drill bits with this setup.

I located it near the rear corner of the workbench so it should not interfere tooooooo much with other workbench usage.  

As the say, where there is a will there is a way.  And when space is at a premium, you have to think outside the box and make evey square inch count.

This set up is working very well for me.

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53 minutes ago, FrankEV said:

I've posted this a few time before but think it is worth sharing again.

This is my solution for not having a drill press!

The Dremel drill press as is, because of it is only 3" from the bit to the post, is imparactical to use for drilling blade holes in almost any fretwork larger than 6" wide.  However, I had the idea in my head I could do something to make it work and Home Depot near me had the Dremel Drill Press/Tool Station in stock for $45.   I took a chance (knowing I could return it if I could not make it work) and bought it this morning.  After I got it home and did some investigating how I could make it work the light bulb lit up in my brain and this was the result.

941937913_Drillpress1.thumb.jpg.195d8f1cca4ff116ee38195c7fce13ef.jpg1963796947_Drillpress2.thumb.jpg.b1f60de1a1d43e96f6e2d62ddf67b0f9.jpg100408088_Drillpress3.thumb.jpg.ade207b00bbad53b207c5d6fb1459e38.jpg1176319831_Drillpress4.thumb.jpg.2a383b2511b9b3848bf2181332f71b5b.jpg

There is a shelf above my workbench that was just the correct height {Actually needs to be the height of the post plus about 2 inches] to allow me to mount the base upside down. I slid the Drill press body on the post opposite of what is normal.  The press can be rotated around the post allowing it to be swung out of the way if necessary.  I use a piece of 1/4" ply as a drill backer and set the stop so the bit will not punch into the workbench top.  Very easy to locate the bit ove the point where the hole is needed.  From the bit to the wall is about 11"  so as positioned it can accomodate panels up to about 22" wide.  

I have two Dremel Rotary Tools so this one will be a dedicated drill for drilling blade holes, although the tool holder body can be rotated up to 90 degrees and used for other operations. 

I don't think I will be braking as many drill bits with this setup.

I located it near the rear corner of the workbench so it should not interfere tooooooo much with other workbench usage.  

As the say, where there is a will there is a way.  And when space is at a premium, you have to think outside the box and make evey square inch count.

This set up is working very well for me.

I've seen you post this a few other times but I guess I never really read where you said you have 11" of space and can drill up to around 22" wide.. This is really a great idea.. I have the dremel plunge router base etc like the others do.. My issue with that set up is.. the plunge base is a little sloppy when new but after drilling maybe one or two million holes that plastic base is getting more slop.. Sloppy enough I can drill a hole fairly easy at 5 degrees off.. and many times if not careful I could probably drill straighter holes with my hand drill, LOL.. The other issue is the power of the dremel.. unless you have the thing winding way up there in RPM and burning up bits it won't drill through thick hardwoods as well as I'd like it to.. Needs more power / torque at a slower speeds.. This could be just the cheap dremel nock off I have ( WEN )? maybe a actual Dremel brand has better power.. I can see the dremel being great for thin stock.. but I mostly always cutting 1/2 - 3/4 material all times.. and the thicker material if you're plunge base is sloppy at all will really show on the back side of thicker stock.. really hard to drill precise straight holes with that sloppy base. 

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40 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

... but I mostly always cutting 1/2 - 3/4 material all times.. and the thicker material ...

I havn't done "millions" of holes, but have done a couple of projects in 3/4" material.  Using small bits (like #64) and the Dremel operatinag at it highest speed, I have no trouble drilling nice straight holes fairly quickly.  I don't push the bit throught to fast, just let it do its thing with a nice steady pressure on the handle.  If I was using a larger bit I would knock the speed down.

The only trick to using this set up is the need to position the point of the bit only about an 1/8" above the work so positioning over the cut out area is easier to line up.  A good light on the panel also helps.   

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1 hour ago, FrankEV said:

I havn't done "millions" of holes, but have done a couple of projects in 3/4" material.  Using small bits (like #64) and the Dremel operatinag at it highest speed, I have no trouble drilling nice straight holes fairly quickly.  I don't push the bit throught to fast, just let it do its thing with a nice steady pressure on the handle.  If I was using a larger bit I would knock the speed down.

The only trick to using this set up is the need to position the point of the bit only about an 1/8" above the work so positioning over the cut out area is easier to line up.  A good light on the panel also helps.   

Maybe I push the drill too fast.. but for some reason I can't keep from burning the hole through.. which can ruin the project if you are doing veining cuts.. I use a lot of Cherry wood and it burns easily.. My plunge base "used to be" a lot less sloppy.. over time those upright guides etc will wear.. as it is just plastic. Something to prolong that is using PB blaster dry lube with Teflon spray.. I use the PB Blaster garage door dry lube. https://www.zoro.com/blaster-garage-door-lubricant-aerosol-11-oz-16-gdl/i/G3627915/?gclid=e34fa889ea0114725126c8a37934ba9d&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=e34fa889ea0114725126c8a37934ba9d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA_US_Bing_SSC&utm_term=4586131721644320&utm_content=All Products

I use this stuff on a lot of things.. amazing stuff.. Lawn mower wheels and cables etc.. makes the mower roll real easy and smooth. door hinges in my house / garage / car etc.. LOL. I also use Johnson paste wax on the bottom of the router base.. glides right across the wood when drilling holes..

Anyway, everyone will have a different opinion and use for these dremels for drilling holes.. your system running on the one post looks to be a more stable unit than the plunge router that the base rides on two post and they can't be too tight on those post or it'd be hard to move the plunge part of it.. so brand new there is a little side to side tilt that "can" happen.. after plunging it a million times and it gets some wear it gets much more sloppy.. 

That stew mac site used to have a metal plunge base.. now it looks like they've made it from plastic?  

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