Devin Wilson Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 Posted awhile back about production cutting saw and overwhelming many said a Hegner. After some searching I found a used 22V great shape. Came with all paperwork and had the quick clamp installed already. Had to buy new bellows and upgraded to the air line kit also. All total I got about $450 in it between what I paid and parts so still have a good deal. My struggle is breaking blades which I know is a tension issue. My question is about the blade when inserting it into the top quick clamp it goes farther than the clamp you could say. Is that normal? If not is there a adjustment? Picture of what I'm trying to explain attached. I prefer to use Pegas #3 or #5 blades and have bought the smaller bottom clamp sizes for the #3 blade but still getting a lot of breaks. I've messed around with the tension watched the YouTube videos and such just struggling with blade breaks and wondering if I need to adjust something for the blade to go into the top clamp correctly. Also what's the best oil to use on it I see where it has the couple of oil areas on the main bearings you could say. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 Where is the blade breaking? in the middle or near the top / bottom clamping points? I don't know a lot about Hegners.. but have read that the blade tension is fussy with them.. I know this to be true with the Hawk saws as well.. and thinking has a little to do with the long arm motion of these types of saws. If I have some tension issues I break blades somewhere near the middle of the blade. If I break them near the clamping screws, it's usually the clamp screws need sanded flat etc. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin Wilson Posted March 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 20 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: Where is the blade breaking? in the middle or near the top / bottom clamping points? I don't know a lot about Hegners.. but have read that the blade tension is fussy with them.. I know this to be true with the Hawk saws as well.. and thinking has a little to do with the long arm motion of these types of saws. If I have some tension issues I break blades somewhere near the middle of the blade. If I break them near the clamping screws, it's usually the clamp screws need sanded flat etc. They mainly break in the lower to middle area. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 I put my blade in the quickclamp, all the way to the back of the clamp. I then lower the arm further until the blade starts to bend from being pushed down at the top of the clamp... I tighten the screw, release the arm and pluck the blade. Listen to it and adjust the tension until I get a high ping. Also that clamp should be secure in the holder, the knurl screw above it should be screwed down until the clamp is secure, no wiggle.. The regular clamps you need to live a little wiggle in the clamp. Yes the tension is a little fussy, but you get the feel of it. Took me a little while to get it right, once you do, it come natural. Had my for several years now, my favorite saw of the ones I have owned... BUT, it still makes me jump when a blade breaks...! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 I wish I had not sold my Hegner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nrscroller Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 Hi I have had a hegner for years and I love it. According to Advanced Machinery loosen up your tension on that back end of the saw, MAKE SURE there is no oil on those threads or the whole thing in fact. YOu only want to put light oil on those two spots marked with and arrow. Now that you have the tension loose, clamp the blade down and start tensioning up. When you just feel that tension start, tighten 3/4 of a turn and listen for a HI C note or ping on you blade. That should be sufficient. The heavier the blade it might not require as much tension. Also make sure if you have the quick disconnect on the top that you loosen that nut above the blade holder just so you get a little wiggle out of it so it has some play. Good luck Bill GrampaJim and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 (edited) 19 minutes ago, nrscroller said: Hi I have had a hegner for years and I love it. According to Advanced Machinery loosen up your tension on that back end of the saw, MAKE SURE there is no oil on those threads or the whole thing in fact. YOu only want to put light oil on those two spots marked with and arrow. Now that you have the tension loose, clamp the blade down and start tensioning up. When you just feel that tension start, tighten 3/4 of a turn and listen for a HI C note or ping on you blade. That should be sufficient. The heavier the blade it might not require as much tension. Also make sure if you have the quick disconnect on the top that you loosen that nut above the blade holder just so you get a little wiggle out of it so it has some play. Good luck Bill Bill, this is a quote from Advanced. Machinery about the Quikclamp. The regular clamps need the wiggle room, not the Quickclamp: "Use the QuickClamp instead of a standard blade clamp at the upper end of your sawblade, and align your blade instantly! A positive stop helps you put your blade in the same position every time, and the easy-grip knurled aluminum knob places pressure directly on the blade for slip-free tightening. Unlike the standard HEGNER blade clamp, the QuickClamp is designed to be locked into place in the upper arm of your HEGNER saw at all times. And since it doesn't require a wrench, it's super-fast to release and re-tighten for speedy blade changes, especially for frequent inside cuts! The QuickClamp is supplied complete as shown, and accepts all blade sizes." I took this to mean it should not have the wiggle. hummmm, there are two way I can interpret this, I took it to mean it would be in there solid,,, no wiggle. I know in the manual it talks about backing off that knob a little, with the regular clamps, but you don't remove the regular clamps either... What say you other Hegner owners? Edited March 26, 2021 by Scrappile OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 34 minutes ago, Scrappile said: Bill, this is a quote from Advanced. Machinery about the Quikclamp. The regular clamps need the wiggle room, not the Quickclamp: "Use the QuickClamp instead of a standard blade clamp at the upper end of your sawblade, and align your blade instantly! A positive stop helps you put your blade in the same position every time, and the easy-grip knurled aluminum knob places pressure directly on the blade for slip-free tightening. Unlike the standard HEGNER blade clamp, the QuickClamp is designed to be locked into place in the upper arm of your HEGNER saw at all times. And since it doesn't require a wrench, it's super-fast to release and re-tighten for speedy blade changes, especially for frequent inside cuts! The QuickClamp is supplied complete as shown, and accepts all blade sizes." I took this to mean it should not have the wiggle. hummmm, there are two way I can interpret this, I took it to mean it would be in there solid,,, no wiggle. I know in the manual it talks about backing off that knob a little, with the regular clamps, but you don't remove the regular clamps either... What say you other Hegner owners? I agree Paul. When I had mine and it had the quick clamp, I tried it both ways and came to realize that when you add/have the quick clamp, it is designed to be an integral part of the upper arm and not meant to be loose in any way. It stays in one place all the time and should remain tight so that you can easily loosen/tighten the blade. If you think about it, that just makes sense. It's no longer meant to be a separate piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 Well right after I made my last post quoting the info on QuickClamp, I thought that could be interpreted two ways so I emailed Advanced Machinery and asked... This was the response I received a few minutes.... (the kind of service you get from them), "wolfgang@advmachinery.com 12:57 PM (2 hours ago) to me Needs to be tightened down. The blade is held differently than it is in regular clamps which hold blades at the tip of the 'V' and pivoting would actually be a disadvantage and cause earlier breakage." GrampaJim and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoney Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 I have only owned 3 scroll saws an old craftsman, Delta P20, and the Hegner 22v that I use now. The Hegner by and large requires more tension than the other saws I've owned. Once you find the sweet spot, high C, I believe you will quit breaking blades. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 I have always left the quick clamp loose. You have convinced me to try it tight. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrampaJim Posted March 26, 2021 Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 37 minutes ago, Dave Monk said: I have always left the quick clamp loose. You have convinced me to try it tight. I will second that. Mine was always loose too. Changing it now. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 27, 2021 Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 (edited) Oh, oh... I am not trying to convince anyone of anything... just pointing out what I have learned from what the vendor says... I have done it both ways, loose and tight... to be honest, I think with it loose, I broke more blades, but with it tight I still break some blades... I have figured that on most saws, when a blade gets dull and old it just doesn't cut good anymore.. On my Hegner, when a blade get to the point that I think it is old and tired and I should change it soon, it will shortly break. Kinda like my Hegner is saying, "enough is enough already,,,, give me a new blade....!!" Yep, my Hegner talks to me... Edited March 27, 2021 by Scrappile OCtoolguy, stoney and Dave Monk 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted March 27, 2021 Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 49 minutes ago, Scrappile said: Oh, oh... I am not trying to convince anyone of anything... just pointing out what I have learned from what the vendor says... I have done it both ways, loose and tight... to be honest, I think with it loose, I broke more blades, but with it tight I still break some blades... I have figured that on most saws, when a blade gets dull and old it just doesn't cut good anymore.. On my Hegner, when a blade get to the point that I think it is old and tired and I should change it soon, it will shortly break. Kinda like my Hegner is saying, "enough is enough already,,,, give me a new blade....!!" Yep, my Hegner talks to me... I thought the dull blade breaking thing was just a Hawk thing.. That's the way my Hawk is.. if the blade gets dull and I feel it needs changed its about the same time it snaps.. The short arm saws, like the DW's Pegas etc.. are a lot more forgiving with dull blades. I don't ever really recall breaking blades on those saws.. But I have made smoke with them when they get too dull to cut.. they try burning the way through.. not a good thing either trust me, LOL Scrappile, OCtoolguy and stoney 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nrscroller Posted March 27, 2021 Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 I am sorry I posted the wrong thing, I meant the regular clamp on the top. that round knob on top of that clamp needs to have some wiggle romm, so you clamp that tight and then back that off a bit just so it wiggles a little, then lock the quick clamp ok I fix problem now Thanks Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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