Saw Maintenance

[Jim Erickson]

I've heard folks talk about the importance of waxing the top of their scroll saws so material will slid over it easily.  I was wondering about polishing the tool marks.

I recently bought a 25 year old Hawk, and the finish on the table seems a little rough compared with the iron tops on my table and band saws.  Now I'm pretty sure the finish is as "came from the factory" and it has nothing to do with the saws' age.  My question is:  Is polishing the tool marks out to the table top of any value?  Would I gain anything, other than a shiny top, from polishing it?  Thanks for sharing your wisdom.  Jim

[Rockytime]

Hi Jim and welcome to the Village. No, do not remove the swirl marks. These are caused by a fly cutter of some kind during the machining process. They actually help you. They consist of very small peaks and valleys, Your wood will only be supported by the peaks. Therefore in theory (I think actually) your wood should slide easier as t is only in contact with half the surface of the table. Wax is good. I may get some comments on this but I am convinced. I've had three Hawks and never had a problem with the table surface. Now go and enjoy that saw!

[kmmcrafts]

Welcome to the Village,

I use Johnson paste wax for my saws but I've found that the Hawk tables don't seem to need waxed as often as the old DeWalt I had did.. Also my Excalibur has a painted table top and that also doesn't need waxed as often as the old steel table of my DW. I still wax them about once a month or so.. but the old DW needed it at least every week.. sometimes more..

I wouldn't worry about any of the marks on the table just be sure it's clean and waxed.. don't use a car type wax.. They can cause some reactions to some of your wood finishes.. 

[CharleyL]

Yeah, avoid car waxes because they contain Silicone. When silicone gets on your wood, it will prevent the wood from accepting finishes. The result will be what is commonly called "Fish Eyes" because they are usually round with a small dot in the center. The silicone drop prevents stains and varnishes from bonding with the wood. Anything that contains silicone has been banned from my wood shop because it is so hard to detect before finishing. I destroyed a lot of good wood that got silicone on it years ago. I never want to go through that again. Johnson's Paste Wax is the easiest to find and about the cheapest good wax available. I had a partial can of Butcher's Paste wax given to me once, and it worked great, but when I went to buy more, the sticker shock made me try Johnson's, and the result was about the same. Most any clear wax that does not contain silicone will work fine for this need. 

Charley

[lawson56]

I have heard both sides. I have had a Craftsman. Porter Cable and now a Delta, I have never had a problem with any of my tables.

[Scrappile]

I wax every table top on every tool I have... Table saw, scroll saws, band saw, drill press, planer... all.  not only does it make thing slide smoother on them but it help to keep the rust away...

[Jim Erickson]

Thanks Les.  Makes sense.  I just waxed mine good with Johnson's, and it's ready to go.  Jim

[Rolf]

I would leave the Hawk table alone unless it has some burrs or anything else that may sang or cause drag.  I periodically clean the table on my Hawk when I start to see black marks on the back of my projects. I wipe it down with acetone until the paper towels are clean. Then a coat of Johnson paste wax thoroughly buffed out.

On a different note, my cast iron table saw had some stains (water) on it. I wet sanded the entire top 320 grit wet dry using WD40. Cleaned and waxed what a difference it made! The wood just glides over the surface.

 

[Jim Erickson]

Thanks Rolf.  I cleaned mine with mineral spirits.  Used a bit of fine steel wool to take of the few minor stains, and then waxed it with Johnsons paste wax.  Jim

[OCtoolguy]

It's the cheapest easiest form of maintenance.