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My Fretwork Clock


Rockytime

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8 hours ago, ben2008 said:

Irene

Do you have a 10" table saw? If so, you can make your own 1/8", 1/4"  or whatever size you need of lumber. You just need a good glue line rip blade, then you can glue up the pieces to the size you need. I do that quite often. I usually cut 4" pieces 1/4" thick and then glue them together for the width I need for my projects. I recently needed a piece of 1/4" walnut over 12" wide. I glued the pieces up to about 13" and fit my pattern to it. Worked great. Once you cut it for fretwork you will never notice the 4 pieces of wood glued together.

It's really not that hard to do. All you  will need are some bar clamps and white glue.  I try to buy thick wood at least 1 1/2" or more. Then you can get many pieces cut from the same board and they will all be the same size and color also.

Of course, a band saw would be a much better option.

Ben

Thank you Ben that’s a great suggestion. We do have a table saw that would be able to do what you explained. I bought the table saw for Christmas present for my sweetheart about 10 years ago and the only person who has used it is the carpenter guy we hired to help us build a bar in the basement. After seeing pictures like @Scrappile hand and reading other gruesome stuff I’m scared to give it a try. And my husband well he’s not comfortable using it either. I guess stack the present up to” it was the thought that counts”. 

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17 hours ago, Tomanydogs said:

Thank you Ben that’s a great suggestion. We do have a table saw that would be able to do what you explained. I bought the table saw for Christmas present for my sweetheart about 10 years ago and the only person who has used it is the carpenter guy we hired to help us build a bar in the basement. After seeing pictures like @Scrappile hand and reading other gruesome stuff I’m scared to give it a try. And my husband well he’s not comfortable using it either. I guess stack the present up to” it was the thought that counts”. 

There is no reason to be scared of using your table saw as long as you respect it and follow the safety rules. Myself, I use mine without any guards in place. It forces me to pay attention to what I'm doing. Also the use of "sleds" makes it even more safe. And accurate. Just be careful. Watch some videos on the proper set ups. 

 

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4 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Yep, trust me table saws are perfectly safe....😏  Ray is correct though,,, they are safe, if you follow safe procedures and do not take shortcuts....and have a splitter....raving knife even better..

Are you sure.....I’ll bet you have used yours for many years and I’m sure you use it safely. But I appreciate the vote of confidence. 🙋‍♀️

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On 6/4/2021 at 7:54 PM, Rockytime said:

Well it's not exactly a clock yet. I've started by copying the two sided plans on individual sheets so I can cut them apart. I've made the base. Sometime in the future I will make a couple of more pieces. I start this needing a lot of advice.

1. What kind of wood to use. I would like to use hardwoods but that can be expensive for an experiment. I don't have a planer or flat sander along with other things. My wife says, "Why don't you buy them?" Duh, at my age who knows how long I can use them? So I have a lot of 1/8 and 1/4 inch BB which I plan to use.

2. That brings up the problem of finishing. Should the pieces be stained after cutting and before assembly or after assembly?

3. What adhesive should I use for assembly?

I have no idea how long this project will take. I did cut the base on the table saw and trimmed the edged on the router. Before I go further I'm waiting for advice.

1-20210604_144741.jpg

Good looking pattern. Is that one of Pedro's ( Finescrollsaw ) ? I would love to do one...but don't think I have the skills or for sure the patience lol.

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On 6/9/2021 at 6:57 PM, Tomanydogs said:

Are you sure.....I’ll bet you have used yours for many years and I’m sure you use it safely. But I appreciate the vote of confidence. 🙋‍♀️

My first table saw experience was a very scary situation for me as well. Getting over that first cut was unnerving as all get up.

I thought for sure I was going to either fall into the blade, cut my fingers or my hand off or the blade was going to come off and slice me in two or the wood was going shoot back and impale me like a vampire stake!

However, after reading a bunch of articles on the safety aspects and watching a few videos I proceeded to do 1 cut. It was a simple straight cut of a scrap board I had

After that first cut it got much easier and I've since become much more adept at using the table saw. I do how ever still treat it with great respect and always follow my safety guidelines not matter what I'm cutting or how few pieces I cut

The tricks for me to get over my apprehension was:

1. Use a push stick - in fact I used 2. One to push on the fence side and one to push on the outside.. The outside push stick I used was the gripppper! It really helped get me over that apprehension hump. It worked so well, I bought another!

2. Keep hands away from the throat cover - very important and my #1 rule still today and why I opted to use a push stick on both sides. I have my throat plates painted red to make sure I adhere to this rule. If a piece I am going to cut falls even remotely close the edge of throat plate, push sticks come up and I proceed from there!

Good luck with your table saw. It's not that bad, really

 

 

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Regarding the clock, I'm glad you chose the maple & walnut.  For a project like that, I think you will like the results much better than using stained BB play.  Use any glue that works with wood for assembly, but check the fit several times before committing to permanent assembly.  Spray it with the the clear coat of your choice.  A project like that is a little hard to use a brush or rag to apply a finish, so spraying is easiest.

As for resawing on a table saw;  It is certainly doable, but not something I would necessarily recommend for anyone who is unfamiliar or uncomfortable with using a TS.  You need to have really good control of your off cuts.  If you resaw on a TS, make more than one pass to rip the entire thickness.  If it's wider than you can resaw with the blade the whole way up, you can flip it over and cut from the other edge to maximize the width of stock you can rip.  However, if your last pass cuts the rest of the way through the wood, the off cut could get caught in the blade as it falls away and kick back at the operator.  Some folks will leave a narrow strip in the center uncut to hold both pieces together.  This can then be finished with a hand saw and cleaned up with a block plane.  Not the easiest method, but the safest.  If you are resawing thin  pieces, make sure they can't fall down inside the gap in the throat plate.  A zero clearance throat plate should be used.  

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5 hours ago, Bill WIlson said:

Regarding the clock, I'm glad you chose the maple & walnut.  For a project like that, I think you will like the results much better than using stained BB play.  Use any glue that works with wood for assembly, but check the fit several times before committing to permanent assembly.  Spray it with the the clear coat of your choice.  A project like that is a little hard to use a brush or rag to apply a finish, so spraying is easiest.

As for resawing on a table saw;  It is certainly doable, but not something I would necessarily recommend for anyone who is unfamiliar or uncomfortable with using a TS.  You need to have really good control of your off cuts.  If you resaw on a TS, make more than one pass to rip the entire thickness.  If it's wider than you can resaw with the blade the whole way up, you can flip it over and cut from the other edge to maximize the width of stock you can rip.  However, if your last pass cuts the rest of the way through the wood, the off cut could get caught in the blade as it falls away and kick back at the operator.  Some folks will leave a narrow strip in the center uncut to hold both pieces together.  This can then be finished with a hand saw and cleaned up with a block plane.  Not the easiest method, but the safest.  If you are resawing thin  pieces, make sure they can't fall down inside the gap in the throat plate.  A zero clearance throat plate should be used.  

Yup, this is exactly the way I resaw my hardwood blanks. If the blank is wider than the saw blade will cut, I use a Japanese back saw to finish the cut, then run the two blanks through the planner to get rid of the ridge. 

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On 6/5/2021 at 8:09 AM, Norm Fengstad said:

I don't have any 2 cents to offer except to say it is a challenging yet rewarding project you have started and I am positive your up to the challenge. My wisdom words is not let pending age deter one from buying new tools as our addiction needs to be filled even in advancing age

My wisdom words is not let pending age deter one from buying new tools as our addiction needs to be filled even in advancing age

I agree!  

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Next question. I am planning to do a 50/50 BLO treatment before assembly of  the few parts I've cut like parts for the base and the trimmings and then pin and glue things together. Does that sound correct? Or, do some of you cut everything first, apply a finish, then assemble everything then spraying a final finish?

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Les, weather it’s right or not, I always assemble first, then apply the 50/50 mix, either by dipping or brushing if the item is too big to soak. Then I’ll shake of the loose oil then use compressed air to blow off the remaining oil. After the oil is dry, I’ll apply my topcoat, usually spray lacquer. Here’s a clock I made a few years ago. Made from 1/4 Cherry and Maple. No stain. Finished as above.

B736C7F3-2251-4FCB-914B-C6E49AC638B3.jpeg

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10 minutes ago, dgman said:

Les, weather it’s right or not, I always assemble first, then apply the 50/50 mix, either by dipping or brushing if the item is too big to soak. Then I’ll shake of the loose oil then use compressed air to blow off the remaining oil. After the oil is dry, I’ll apply my topcoat, usually spray lacquer. Here’s a clock I made a few years ago. Made from 1/4 Cherry and Maple. No stain. Finished as above.

B736C7F3-2251-4FCB-914B-C6E49AC638B3.jpeg

Thank you. I guess I could spray the 55/50 on after assembly. Clock will be approx. 16" tall. You made a beautiful clock. Hope mine comes out as good.

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1 hour ago, dgman said:

Les, weather it’s right or not, I always assemble first, then apply the 50/50 mix, either by dipping or brushing if the item is too big to soak. Then I’ll shake of the loose oil then use compressed air to blow off the remaining oil. After the oil is dry, I’ll apply my topcoat, usually spray lacquer. Here’s a clock I made a few years ago. Made from 1/4 Cherry and Maple. No stain. Finished as above.

B736C7F3-2251-4FCB-914B-C6E49AC638B3.jpeg

Very nice. I love that combo of woods too.

 

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Here goes, my start on the clock since I think I have all the materials I need.

Picture 1: The base with the first layer finished. Estimate time of completion is July 4...2023. I've been cutting the parts for each stage, 50/50 BLO then assembly. I first thought about spraying the BLO after completion but just applying with a small foam brush is working fine. If and when finished I will spray a final finish with a Critter spray gun which I do not have but am itching to get one. Reviews are excellent for smaller projects.

Picture 2: This is my old Dremel table saw I've had for many years which I could not bear to give up. I'm finding some of my old modeling tools are coming in quite handy.

The plans are fairly good but a really good photograph would help. All the details are there it is just that sometimes my old brain has to think. Something which I abhor.

1-20210621_160151.jpg

1-20210620_120713.jpg

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16 hours ago, Rockytime said:

Here goes, my start on the clock since I think I have all the materials I need.

Picture 1: The base with the first layer finished. Estimate time of completion is July 4...2023. I've been cutting the parts for each stage, 50/50 BLO then assembly. I first thought about spraying the BLO after completion but just applying with a small foam brush is working fine. If and when finished I will spray a final finish with a Critter spray gun which I do not have but am itching to get one. Reviews are excellent for smaller projects.

Picture 2: This is my old Dremel table saw I've had for many years which I could not bear to give up. I'm finding some of my old modeling tools are coming in quite handy.

The plans are fairly good but a really good photograph would help. All the details are there it is just that sometimes my old brain has to think. Something which I abhor.

1-20210621_160151.jpg

1-20210620_120713.jpg

That little saw looks handy, for sure. How's the accuracy? How old is it? Model number? I might start the search for one.

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I've had it since the 70's. It is accurate because I added the accurizer which may be found on eBay. I modified the rip fence with the aluminum piece you can see. The original was cheesy. I turned a new arbor so I can use carbide blades used on an angle grinder.  Not much is original except the table.

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  • 4 weeks later...

It's finished. Perhaps I should post this in the bragging section but since I started here I'll post it here. Travis may wish to move it and that's fine with me. Went together well. There are things I will do differently on the next one. I have 2 daughters. I immersed each piece prior to assembly in BLO. I used plain old Elmer's white glue. Worked well. Sets up fast and is strong. At least strong enough for this application. 1/8" cut with 2/0 Pike jewelers blades. 1/4" cut with 2/0 PegasMG blades. Lots of pieces with straight edges I cut on my table saw and Dremel table saw. I need to do a complete overspray but not sure what I will use. I did not keep time on the project. Too many interruptions. I think wood was well under $100 including shipping. Some wood was for other projects.  

20210716_141900.jpg

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1 hour ago, Rockytime said:

It's finished. Perhaps I should post this in the bragging section but since I started here I'll post it here. Travis may wish to move it and that's fine with me. Went together well. There are things I will do differently on the next one. I have 2 daughters. I immersed each piece prior to assembly in BLO. I used plain old Elmer's white glue. Worked well. Sets up fast and is strong. At least strong enough for this application. 1/8" cut with 2/0 Pike jewelers blades. 1/4" cut with 2/0 PegasMG blades. Lots of pieces with straight edges I cut on my table saw and Dremel table saw. I need to do a complete overspray but not sure what I will use. I did not keep time on the project. Too many interruptions. I think wood was well under $100 including shipping. Some wood was for other projects.  

20210716_141900.jpg

Great job Les. I like it a lot. 

Maybe you will catch the same bug I have. My wife calls it "clockitis' I think I'm up to 5 clocks now and more coming.

 

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