Popular Post Denny Knappen Posted July 15, 2021 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Bass plaque is finished. The pattern is by Steve Good. It was cut using 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and backed with 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood stained Walnut. It was cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1R MGT and #0 Spiral blades. The finish was one dipping in diluted Shellac and two coats MinWax Lacquer Clear Satin with light sanding between coats. Comments welcome. Fish, frankorona, munzieb and 8 others 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RabidAlien Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Nicely cut! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankEV Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Very nice and well done. Quick question. I've seen you mention this before but never asked: Why do you use the diluted Shallac, prior to spraying with the Lacquer? I recently bought a can of Shallac to try this process, but just haven't gotten around to trying it. I have finished many wood working projects, both prior to getting into scrolling and now for my scrolling projects, just with Lacquer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 1 hour ago, RabidAlien said: Nicely cut! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 36 minutes ago, FrankEV said: Very nice and well done. Quick question. I've seen you mention this before but never asked: Why do you use the diluted Shallac, prior to spraying with the Lacquer? I recently bought a can of Shallac to try this process, but just haven't gotten around to trying it. I have finished many wood working projects, both prior to getting into scrolling and now for my scrolling projects, just with Lacquer Thanks Frank. For me, Shellac right out of the can is too thick. Diluting it 50% with denatured alcohol makes it thin enough to act as a sanding sealer. Usually I dip in the solution and let air dry. After a light sanding, it is ready to finish. FrankEV 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollerpete Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Real nice Denny you are an artist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nrscroller Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 HI That is really cool!! Congrats on your nice work Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveww1 Posted July 16, 2021 Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 fantastic job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted July 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 16 hours ago, scrollerpete said: Real nice Denny you are an artist. Thanks Pete. I just follow lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted July 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 13 hours ago, nrscroller said: HI That is really cool!! Congrats on your nice work Bill Thanks Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted July 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 46 minutes ago, daveww1 said: fantastic job Thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankEV Posted July 16, 2021 Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 23 hours ago, Denny Knappen said: ...act as a sanding sealer. Usually I dip in the solution and let air dry. After a light sanding, it is ready to finish. I have, and have used a few time in the past, Deft Sanding Sealer for that same purpose. However, It has a silight tendency to add a little yelowish darkening of the wood, more so than just using straight Lacquer. When wood like Maple, or even BB, is left un- stained, I want the wood color to remain as natural as possible through the final finish. I do most of my sanding pre-cutting and only do a little touch up sanding if absolutely necessary, so the need for a sanding sealer in my opinion is not as important for scroll saw panels as it is for wnen making furniture or other large projects that require extensive finish sanding afer assenbly. Thanks for the reply. I'm always egar to learn what other processes people do and why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted July 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 2 hours ago, FrankEV said: I have, and have used a few time in the past, Deft Sanding Sealer for that same purpose. However, It has a silight tendency to add a little yelowish darkening of the wood, more so than just using straight Lacquer. When wood like Maple, or even BB, is left un- stained, I want the wood color to remain as natural as possible through the final finish. I do most of my sanding pre-cutting and only do a little touch up sanding if absolutely necessary, so the need for a sanding sealer in my opinion is not as important for scroll saw panels as it is for wnen making furniture or other large projects that require extensive finish sanding afer assenbly. Thanks for the reply. I'm always egar to learn what other processes people do and why. I find by dipping, the solution gets into all the little frets which spray seems to miss. FrankEV 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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