Using spray adhesive over painter's tape--packing tape needed on top?

[kmmcrafts]

25 minutes ago, BadBob said:

I suspect that all tapes are not created equal, which may explain variations in results.

I was going to mention this in my post but forgot to add it. I'm sure shelf liner and other things may have a different mix of silicon depending upon the product needs. I work mostly with cherry.. only time I ever had a problem is when I trace with a pencil the outline of a base or something and use no tape or anything on it. I also find that FD-UR blade that used to be my go to blade burns the cherry much more easily than does the Pegas MG blades. Maybe the blade design makes for a cooler running blade as maybe it's clearing the sawdust better. I can cut Cherry without anything on it with no burning with a Pegas blade.. not so with ANY of the blades offered by FD ( I've tried them all over the years ). Might be the way I feed the wood to the blade or the speed I cut at.. either case Pegas is pretty much my go to blade partly for this reason. I'm not certain if it's 100% the blade changing to Pegas.. But in either case the shelf liner and or the shipping label creates the same lubricant properties as the packing tape.. at least in my experience. But could be a mix of the Pegas blades and the liner / label as I switched all about the same time to all of these.

[OCtoolguy]

12 hours ago, ben2008 said:

I have used these in the past. I cut them in half and they lasted a long time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YZVRVTY?pd_rd_i=B07YZVRVTY&pd_rd_w=GJaaW&pf_rd_p=ee186ce0-6bf7-4893-85b9-f3368b019e0f&pd_rd_wg=8d5p1&pf_rd_r=D0E4SASAXY6DRD4V5274&pd_rd_r=2dc0a6b2-afc6-4b34-9fe5-6b38b121fc32

Earlier this year i bought a 5 pound box of rags on Amazon. That's what I'm using right now. Either one works great.

 https://www.amazon.com/Arkwright-LLC-White-Cleaning-T-Shirt/dp/B08FVCQ9TP/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Box+of+rags&qid=1626841648&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSEtPVkRPMjlYQzNDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODY2NTQxTlRPNFUxOERQVDhYJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyOTg4NDMzOFVNWFZUV08wUFpVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

That 625 lb pallet looks like a good way to go. You get some wood to cut too. Lol.

[crupiea]

Blue tape is like $4 a roll. no way am I using that to cover anything.  I use it as sparingly as I can.

Just spray a thin coat of glue,. wait a few minutes until barely tacky and put it on the wood. 

Practice with it.  If its too tacky, it will be a nightmare to get off.  If you waited another 2 minutes it would stay in place and peel right off when done.  Just a feel thing. 

I would rather practice this method than spend money of blue tape to be honest. I am pretty thrifty that way. 

 

[OCtoolguy]

On 7/21/2021 at 6:21 AM, kmmcrafts said:

I was going to mention this in my post but forgot to add it. I'm sure shelf liner and other things may have a different mix of silicon depending upon the product needs. I work mostly with cherry.. only time I ever had a problem is when I trace with a pencil the outline of a base or something and use no tape or anything on it. I also find that FD-UR blade that used to be my go to blade burns the cherry much more easily than does the Pegas MG blades. Maybe the blade design makes for a cooler running blade as maybe it's clearing the sawdust better. I can cut Cherry without anything on it with no burning with a Pegas blade.. not so with ANY of the blades offered by FD ( I've tried them all over the years ). Might be the way I feed the wood to the blade or the speed I cut at.. either case Pegas is pretty much my go to blade partly for this reason. I'm not certain if it's 100% the blade changing to Pegas.. But in either case the shelf liner and or the shipping label creates the same lubricant properties as the packing tape.. at least in my experience. But could be a mix of the Pegas blades and the liner / label as I switched all about the same time to all of these.

Kevin, you've stated that you run your saws full speed. That might be part of your burn problem. No need for a variable speed saw if you've got your foot to the floor all the time. Maybe slow it down some?

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, octoolguy said:

Kevin, you've stated that you run your saws full speed. That might be part of your burn problem. No need for a variable speed saw if you've got your foot to the floor all the time. Maybe slow it down some?

 I do run much slower saw speed these days for two reasons.. The saws top speed is 250 -350 spm. slower than the old DW saws are.. and the second reason is the Pegas blades just work much better for me.. I like sawing at a faster rate if I can and the FD blades are slower cutting so I find myself "pushing" the blade through.. even at higher saw speeds. For me staying on the lines and making nice smooth cuts work best at higher saw speeds and nice sharp blades. I find slower saw speeds makes for turning sharp 90's etc. hard to do.. Some of the fast saw speed comfort level for me might have to do with my first saw being a single speed at 1700 spm. so that is how I learned to cut and control the blade at higher speeds.. didn't have a choice, LOL Ran that old Delta for 2-3 years too.. LOL 

A good sharp blade, a tuned saw, and feed rate are more important than the saws speed.. you can burn cherry very easily with a dull blade at 200-400 spm.. if you're trying to force the wood through.. so more important than saw speed is a nice sharp blade and correct feed rate. Since going to Pegas MG blades I never have any burning issue.

[WolfmoonCT]

On 7/20/2021 at 5:59 PM, Rockytime said:

I jut found it troublesome as the sawdust got under the tape and obscured the line. I thought I had burnished very well but perhaps not enough. I have lots of packing tape so may try it again on some compound cutting. That's where I tried using it before and got frustrated. 

I hate cutting through packing or transparent scotch tape.. The dust sticks to the tape and obscures the lines to me too Rocky.  I only use it if my pattern is a larger multi page one that needs to be taped together before applying to the painters tape.

[OCtoolguy]

I just had a brain fart. They come seldom anymore. Everybody complains that the clear tape comes up and lets dust get under it. Would it maybe help to spray a light coat of adhesive to the blue tape, let it dry for a bit and then apply the clear tape over it? For those who feel the need for the clear tape, this might make it stay down. I've not tried it but just thought maybe. End of fart!