new member old Craftsman saw question

[dadroadie]

Good Afternoon,

I'm new to the forum and was hoping someone may be able to help me with some questions on my new (old ) saw. I was recently given an older 20" Craftsman scroll saw  model 137.226.200. It is working but the saw didn't have a manual with it and the owner admitted that he had never used it and wasn't sure how to adjust the blade tension and switch the blades. After searching the internet I have not been able to find anything on this model. Even Sears doesn't offer it anymore. Would anyone have one of these saws that would be willing to copy the pages in the manual or explain  how to adjust the blade tension and changing blades? most of the saws I have seen adjust from  the rear. Any Help would be appreciated !                Best Regards   dad roadie

[OCtoolguy]

Welcome to the Village. I personally can't offer any first-hand information. But it has been my experience so far that there is an owner's manual/guide for everything on the internet. I'd be surprised that there isn't one for your saw. From your pics it appears that you have a flip lever to release tension for blade changes but there should be a knob at the rear of the saw for applying/adjusting the tension. I'll see if I can find a manual and if I can I'll post the link. Best of luck with your new hobby. 

[OCtoolguy]

Ok, here is what I found. It seems that the number plate on your saw is either wrong or it was replaced by another saw. I found this manual online and I think it's your saw. All the tensioning is done with the lever by turning it one direction or the other. 

mmh.pdf

[Denny Knappen]

1 hour ago, octoolguy said:

Ok, here is what I found. It seems that the number plate on your saw is either wrong or it was replaced by another saw. I found this manual online and I think it's your saw. All the tensioning is done with the lever by turning it one direction or the other. 

mmh.pdf 1020.54 kB · 4 downloads

Way to go, Ray.

[WolfmoonCT]

Looks like he turns the knob, then when he flips it back it tensions it. Turning the quick release prob changes the length the knob is screwed onto a tension rod.

[OCtoolguy]

9 minutes ago, WolfmoonCT said:

Looks like he turns the knob, then when he flips it back it tensions it. Turning the quick release prob changes the length the knob is screwed onto a tension rod. 

There is no knob. It's all done with the tension lever. But from the parts breakdown it shows a threaded rod at the rear that is enclosed. I might be inclined to drill a hole through the case at the back and install longer rod with a knob so as to add or decrease the tension at that point similar to how you set the tension on a Hegner and Excalibur. Not a hard job.

[OCtoolguy]

I'm waiting to see if the OP returns. So many times they drop in, ask a question and then are never seen again. 

 

 

2 hours ago, WolfmoonCT said:

Looks like he turns the knob, then when he flips it back it tensions it. Turning the quick release prob changes the length the knob is screwed onto a tension rod.

Double posted, Deleted.

 

Edited July 22, 2021 by octoolguy

[kmmcrafts]

I had a Dremel 1800 scroll saw that you turn the tension lever to adjust the tension and to "apply" tension you flipped the lever over. I think this saw is the same principal.. On my Dremel the rod at the back was nothing but a piece of maybe 1/8" flat stock and held onto the arms with roll pins.. No bearing or nothing.. not even grease, LOL. Anyway as the holes in the flat stock wore out I continually had to keep turning the adjustment lever until I could no longer turn it any farther.. Then I started cutting blades with some side cutters, LOL. Finally broke down and bought a new connecting rod is what they called it I think.. worked like a charm for another 6-8 months and then the same thing.. Next time it wore out I made my own flat stock.. but again it wears out.. Just a poor design in my opinion.. I repaired it one more time and ordered a new DeWalt from Grizzly and as soon as the DW was set up I put the Dremel on Craigslist and sent it to someone else, LOL 

[Wilson142]

9 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I had a Dremel 1800 scroll saw that you turn the tension lever to adjust the tension and to "apply" tension you flipped the lever over. I think this saw is the same principal.. On my Dremel the rod at the back was nothing but a piece of maybe 1/8" flat stock and held onto the arms with roll pins.. No bearing or nothing.. not even grease, LOL. Anyway as the holes in the flat stock wore out I continually had to keep turning the adjustment lever until I could no longer turn it any farther.. Then I started cutting blades with some side cutters, LOL. Finally broke down and bought a new connecting rod is what they called it I think.. worked like a charm for another 6-8 months and then the same thing.. Next time it wore out I made my own flat stock.. but again it wears out.. Just a poor design in my opinion.. I repaired it one more time and ordered a new DeWalt from Grizzly and as soon as the DW was set up I put the Dremel on Craigslist and sent it to someone else, LOL 

I had an older saw that worked the same way. When the lever is up, you turn it to adjust tension and then you flip the lever down to lock it in.

[dadroadie]

Hi to all,

Yes I did return !  I'm really hoping to be able to learn to use the saw and start making some things for the Grand Kids . Thanks to everyone that  is trying to help me with this . The saw (see attached photo ) does not have an tension adjustment in the back. I have been able to find that this saw was sold by Sears around 2000/2001 and was made by Rexson . If I understand correctly I adjust the tension by turning the lever in the front. Once the tension is adjusted I would flip the lever up to change the blade. The saw is suppose to be able to use both plain and pin blades. Right now a pin blade is installed. I'm hoping to be able to switch to plain blades. I'm hoping that some one may have a manual or the saw to help me to figure out the procedure to do this. Again thanks to all . I'm looking forward to be able to post some projects one of these days!

Best Regards

dad roadie

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, dadroadie said:

Hi to all,

Yes I did return !  I'm really hoping to be able to learn to use the saw and start making some things for the Grand Kids . Thanks to everyone that  is trying to help me with this . The saw (see attached photo ) does not have an tension adjustment in the back. I have been able to find that this saw was sold by Sears around 2000/2001 and was made by Rexson . If I understand correctly I adjust the tension by turning the lever in the front. Once the tension is adjusted I would flip the lever up to change the blade. The saw is suppose to be able to use both plain and pin blades. Right now a pin blade is installed. I'm hoping to be able to switch to plain blades. I'm hoping that some one may have a manual or the saw to help me to figure out the procedure to do this. Again thanks to all . I'm looking forward to be able to post some projects one of these days!

Best Regards

dad roadie

Did you open the pdf that I added? That's your manual.

[dadroadie]

Thanks for the reply and for supplying the download ! The saw in the download is different than mine but looks to have the same type of blade mounting hardware and tension lever. I'm going to compare and see if these instructions will work. I'm hoping it's a decent saw. If anyone has or has had this model and would give me some ideals if they found it to work out for them it would be great. It does seem to have a lot of vibration while running, even at slower speeds. It had been sitting for several years so I'm not sure if I will need to do some lubrication to it.

Thanks Again

dad roadie

[OCtoolguy]

9 minutes ago, dadroadie said:

Thanks for the reply and for supplying the download ! The saw in the download is different than mine but looks to have the same type of blade mounting hardware and tension lever. I'm going to compare and see if these instructions will work. I'm hoping it's a decent saw. If anyone has or has had this model and would give me some ideals if they found it to work out for them it would be great. It does seem to have a lot of vibration while running, even at slower speeds. It had been sitting for several years so I'm not sure if I will need to do some lubrication to it.

Thanks Again

dad roadie

These saws are considered low end and have probably frustrated more new scrollers. But if you have the patience and learn to use it, when you upgrade to a better saw, you will be amazed at what you have learned and what you will be able to do with a better saw. Many new scrollers have missed out on a great hobby because of a bad saw.

[Dan]

You could try contacting Rick Hutcherson. He has a collection of scroll saws from vintage to modern. 

Also, check under the lever for a bolt or screw. It seems I've seen things made to lift the lever, adjust a screw, the close the lever. 

Good luck! Aren't older tools with no manuals fun? 

[OCtoolguy]

I've spent most of my afternoon cruising the web to see if I could find any more info on your saw. I was just about to write to you and tell you that you have the only one ever sold when I ran across one in Texas that was for sale 8 months ago. I have no idea whether they ever sold it but here is a link to their ad. You might contact them to see if they have the owner's manual. I did also find a manual online that they wanted $0.95  to download. So, there is still hope. By the serial number on yours and theirs, they are only about 9 apart if I'm seeing your correctly.

https://www.5miles.com/item/VzalPV2Rbx9PpQYe/craftsman-professional-20-in-scroll-saw-variable-speed

 

[spirithorse]

Hi, Steve,
The photo is a bit small for my old eyes and pixelates if I try to enlarge it but,
I am almost certain there is a knob on the left side of the blade.
With the lever on top of the arm in the UP position
If you turn that knob (on the left of your blade)  counter-clockwise, it will loosed and you can remove the 
blade from the top blade holder or blade clamp. There will be another knob
on the bottom of the blade which works the same way.
Once you remove the blade, you insert a new plain end blade in the bottom clamp
and tighten the knob.
Now you can insert the blade through any fretwork you are cutting and put the blade
in the top clamp, turn the knob clockwise to tighten it and that is what holds the blade in
the clamps.

Theoretically, if you tension the blade by turning the lever clockwise and then lock the lever down,
you can then release the lever, remove the blade from the top clamp at the same heigth that you had
it in originally and lock the lever down again and the tension should be set. That is in THEORY ONLY.

I would release the lever and turn the lever counter-clockwise when you want to go from one entry hole
to another, insert the blade then lock the lever down and gradually turn the lever clockwise until the tension
is tight. It is not necessary to put a lot of force or tension on that lever. Once it is tight, it is ready to cut.

Please let us know what you learn as you go.
I looked for the model number you listed and kept coming up with a mitre saw instead of a scroll saw.

God Bless! Spirithorse

[kmmcrafts]

This one looks like about the same model saw? There used to be a 20" Craftsman saw that was a work horse of a saw. I don't remember what model it was or what it looked like, just remember it was highly spoken of back when I first started sawing in about 2005 ish. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/528897635121288/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking={"qid"%3A"6987915577404448868"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"989866645847736057"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A989866645847736057%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A11%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A5384998092707725312%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A0.00056479076514288%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A3516%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"%2C"lightning_feed_qid"%3A"6987914941577997492"%2C"lightning_feed_ranking_signature"%3A"6502831453968007168"}

[Dan]

If you are on Facebook you can message the guy selling the one that kmmcrafts mentioned. Ask if he has the manual for it and if he would be willing to sell it to you. Worth a shot.

[dadroadie]

Hi to All,

Thanks to everyone that tried to help with this. I'm sure I remember this exact saw when I use to go to our local Sears Hardware Store, (Remember Those?) back in the early 2000s. It was one of those things that I wanted to own but at $299.99 (If I remember correctly) was out of the family budget.  That's why I was pretty  excited about being offered one.  I did go down and try some adjustments last night. I believe I got the blade changing and blade tension figured out thanks to the help from the forum. I one thing that I find really disappointing is the amount of vibration! I can't get past the lowest setting without the saw vibrating excessively. My old hands can't handle it! I did make sure the saw is mounted on the stand correctly and I don't believe any lubrication is possible on this model . Maybe that's why there are not a lot of this model around. Sears got too many complaints and stopped making them. Luckily it did not cost anything. I'll keep my search going for a unit that works . I did have a friend lend me his Black and Decker BT4000 saw a while ago. It was a very smooth running saw . I was hoping that the Sears would work like the Black and Decker. Again thanks to all. I will get those toys made for the Grand Kids one of these days!

Regards

dad roadie 

[dadroadie]

Hi To All,

Was hoping to ask a favor of the forum to see if the old mind is still running on all cylinders! If anyone has one of the Sears Tool Catalogs from the years between 1995 and 2001 would they mind checking it and seeing if my saw is in there and it's features  and price?  The catalog number is 137.226200 . Does anyone oil the upper arm bearings on Sears saws like they talk about in some of the manuals? Mine looks to have a similar bolt on the side  that  is mentioned in the manual that  "octool guy " was kind enough to share. I have the saw bolted down on the stand and was thinking of putting some padding between the saw and the stand to help with the vibration. I was also thinking about opening up the saw and oiling all of the pivot points. Any recommendations on removing vibration would be appreciated!  I would really like to get this saw working if possible. The 20" throat capacity is really nice! Thanks again to all. Really glad I found this forum. Hope to be able to help others like I'm being helped in the future!

Regards

dadroadie 

[kmmcrafts]

One of my first few saws had quite a lot of vibration. I took a piece of carpet padding and placed it between the saw and the stand and bolted it back down. You don't tighten the bolts all the way down.. just snug them up enough to hold it in place.. Good to use lock-nuts or loktite on the bolts you have. What I did was run the saw through the speeds as I tightened up each bolt.. too tight you get vibration.. too loose you get vibration.. if you keep adjusting the bolt tightness and run through the speeds you'll eventually find a sweet spot where there is the less amount of vibration. Might not ever get rid of it completely but you can fine tune it to a speed on the dial that you like to cut at.

[OCtoolguy]

I recommend a piece of anti-fatigue mat on the floor and then set the stand on it. I have all my saws sitting on it and they have very little vibration. It looks like you have a concrete floor so that would help a lot.

[dgman]

Another thing you can do to dampen vibration is build a shelf on the stand and place a bag or two of sand.

[OCtoolguy]

47 minutes ago, dgman said:

Another thing you can do to dampen vibration is build a shelf on the stand and place a bag or two of sand.

Sort of a "sand bar" ?

[tgiro]

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/497650/Craftsman-137-216200.html