Dream Scroll Saw

[SCROLLERNATION]

Just now, preprius said:

so no one mentioned dust control. 

 

Not yet! Im surprised too.  

[kmmcrafts]

3 minutes ago, preprius said:

so no one mentioned dust control. 

 

@SCROLLERNATION Actually I did in my long book of a post I did in the first reply.. Like the 4-5th paragraph.. I mentioned a lot of people take off the dust blower and hook up a vacuum.. Maybe incorporate that into a new designed saw.. though it'd be pricey to have on board vac system..

[SCROLLERNATION]

37 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

@SCROLLERNATION Actually I did in my long book of a post I did in the first reply.. Like the 4-5th paragraph.. I mentioned a lot of people take off the dust blower and hook up a vacuum.. Maybe incorporate that into a new designed saw.. though it'd be pricey to have on board vac system..

I stand corrected.  You wanna come over and play GI JOES or something? lol

[preprius]

ok.  how about a micro drill unit near the blade.   And longer micro drills for 1 inch wood at 45 deg angle.

You can use the same table, and not have to go to a drill press and set table again.

[stoney]

As many of you know I have a Hegner 22V Multimax that I have made some modifications on to make it more user friendly.  My dream saw would be the same saw with factory improvements that include; larger table, rack and pinion table tilt, more upper arm clearance, cam arm style blade clamps, and onboard efficient dust collection.

The thing is as long as we are dreaming might as well dream big right?  Oh I also think the original color is fine they should just use power coat paint. LOL  

[SCROLLERNATION]

10 minutes ago, stoney said:

As many of you know I have a Hegner 22V Multimax that I have made some modifications on to make it more user friendly.  My dream saw would be the same saw with factory improvements that include; larger table, rack and pinion table tilt, more upper arm clearance, cam arm style blade clamps, and onboard efficient dust collection.

The thing is as long as we are dreaming might as well dream big right?  Oh I also think the original color is fine they should just use power coat paint. LOL  

Go big or go home!   Do you notice a lot of paint chipping and flaking off on your Hegner? 

[ben2008]

I found mine!

[kmmcrafts]

31 minutes ago, ben2008 said:

I found mine!

Yep, I've been tossing the idea of buying the 18" Jet.. IF / When I sell my old Hawk. The 18" has more table in front of the blade and the reverse tooth blade issues they have with the 22" was resolved on the 18". Dang good saw with a unique upper blade clamp. I bet those with arthritis in their hands would love this upper clamp.. The lower clamp might not like so much though.. 

[ben2008]

39 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yep, I've been tossing the idea of buying the 18" Jet.. IF / When I sell my old Hawk. The 18" has more table in front of the blade and the reverse tooth blade issues they have with the 22" was resolved on the 18". Dang good saw with a unique upper blade clamp. I bet those with arthritis in their hands would love this upper clamp.. The lower clamp might not like so much though.. 

This 18" Jet saw is a dream to use Kevin. I do have arthritis. I like the barrel clamps.  I've been using the barrel clamps for nearly 30 years on my old RBI so it's not a problem with me. I just purchased 3 more extra barrel clamps for the Jet to keep loaded and ready to go. The upper clamp is really nice. It just takes seconds to change the blade. All the controls are up front. It is just a top quality saw made in Taiwan. The fit and finish is excellent. I have 2 other Jet products that are made very well. Did I mention the excellent built-in dust collection. A life saver for me.

I have found one thing irritating so far. The upper arm does not stay up when you lift it. I'm guessing something just needs to be tightened a bit. I hope that's all it needs.

This saw was ready to go out of the box. I just inserted the blade, squared the blade to the table and started cutting on some scrap pieces. It cut perfectly.

Disclaimer - For all the top feeders on here you will not be able to use this saw in that fashion. Sorry.

Ben

Edited July 31, 2021 by ben2008

[kmmcrafts]

25 minutes ago, ben2008 said:

This 18" Jet saw is a dream to use Kevin. I do have arthritis. I like the barrel clamps.  I've been using the barrel clamps for nearly 30 years on my old RBI so it's not a problem with me. I just purchased 3 more extra barrel clamps for the Jet to keep loaded and ready to go. The upper clamp is really nice. It just takes seconds to change the blade. All the controls are up front. It is just a top quality saw made in Taiwan. The fit and finish is excellent. I have 2 other Jet products that are made very well. Did I mention the excellent built-in dust collection. A life saver for me.

I have found one thing irritating so far. The upper arm does not stay up when you lift it. I'm guessing something just needs to be tightened a bit. I hope that's all it needs.

This saw was ready to go out of the box. I just inserted the blade, squared the blade to the table and started cutting on some scrap pieces. It cut perfectly.

Disclaimer - For all the top feeders on here you will not be able to use this saw in that fashion. Sorry.

Ben

Should just need to adjust the tension on the upper arm. At the back of the saw there should be a screw with a locking nut on it.. loosen the locking nut and turn the screw in just a small bit and adjust it to your stiffness to your liking.  

BTW, glad to hear you like it.. I'm also used to the barrel clamps.. Did Jet change the hole in the barrel clamps yet? The hole used to go all the way through the barrel.. and lots of folks were confused about how deep to insert the blade.. Hawk has a hole that the blade bottoms out in.. Just curious if they've changed that..

[ben2008]

11 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Should just need to adjust the tension on the upper arm. At the back of the saw there should be a screw with a locking nut on it.. loosen the locking nut and turn the screw in just a small bit and adjust it to your stiffness to your liking.  

BTW, glad to hear you like it.. I'm also used to the barrel clamps.. Did Jet change the hole in the barrel clamps yet? The hole used to go all the way through the barrel.. and lots of folks were confused about how deep to insert the blade.. Hawk has a hole that the blade bottoms out in.. Just curious if they've changed that..

Thanks for the tip Kevin. I'll check it out.

No, the barrel clamp still allows the blade to go all the way through. At least the one I just bought from Home Depot does.  I just set the barrel on the edge of the scroll saw table and insert the blade to let the table set the depth of the blade if that makes sense. Then I lightly tighten it to start. Then I use the built-in opening on each side of the saw to tighten it the rest of the way. That makes it nice for left and right handers by having it on both sides. That is one of the irritating things I had to put up with on my old RBI. To tighten the blade in the barrel you had to use the left side of the saw on the RBI. I'm right handed. I really have no problem with this saw. I do have 3 new barrel clamps on order. I'll let you and others know if they solved that problem. I agree, the hole should not go all the way through.

[Woodrush]

I like my king excelsior but I'd rather have a table like the seyco. I like the adjustment for front to back blade movement on the hawk g4 cause moving the motor is a pain

[OCtoolguy]

15 hours ago, SCROLLERNATION said:

Not yet! Im surprised too.  

That was the one thing that I was going to add. I've added it to all of my saws so if it was included in a saw and worked without creating a "suction" problem, that would be a big selling point for me. Far more important than a dust blower. The Pegas and late Ex's tried but created a problem with too much suction to the point of making the wood immoveable. And nothing above the table. Not rocket science.

[SCROLLERNATION]

1 hour ago, ben2008 said:

Thanks for the tip Kevin. I'll check it out.

No, the barrel clamp still allows the blade to go all the way through. At least the one I just bought from Home Depot does.  I just set the barrel on the edge of the scroll saw table and insert the blade to let the table set the depth of the blade if that makes sense. Then I lightly tighten it to start. Then I use the built-in opening on each side of the saw to tighten it the rest of the way. That makes it nice for left and right handers by having it on both sides. That is one of the irritating things I had to put up with on my old RBI. To tighten the blade in the barrel you had to use the left side of the saw on the RBI. I'm right handed. I really have no problem with this saw. I do have 3 new barrel clamps on order. I'll let you and others know if they solved that problem. I agree, the hole should not go all the way through.

When you adjust that back screw for the knob do it until it catches just barely.  If you tighten it too much you will damage your saw.  I read it in the manual a few years back when I had to adjust mine. 

[munzieb]

Since I replaced my blade hold downs with the Pegas mode, I'm pretty happy with my Excalibur 16. Since I do a lot of fine detail cuts, I rotated the motor to minimize the aggression (bite) of the blade. I'm not ready to jump up to a 21" or 30" throat saw. My 16" addresses most of my projects but there are times that I wish I could rotate the blade head 90 degrees for longer cuts. 

[SCROLLERNATION]

Just now, octoolguy said:

That was the one thing that I was going to add. I've added it to all of my saws so if it was included in a saw and worked without creating a "suction" problem, that would be a big selling point for me. Far more important than a dust blower. The Pegas and late Ex's tried but created a problem with too much suction to the point of making the wood immoveable. And nothing above the table. Not rocket science.

I found a way to upgrade the dust collection on those so they don’t suck your work down and  its much more quiet.  Once I get everything on mass producing them to sell Ill let you guys know.  But one thing on those saws is awesome with the dust collection.  Compound cutting it sucks the dust from top and bottom when you cut.  I use a foredom dust collector I got from Seyco and there is also a remote switch you can stick on the leg of the ex models.  Its very quiet and even with a cyclone system on low it hs plenty of quiet power.  It is pricey though.  Worth it. 

[kmmcrafts]

I found the dust port on the EX to work quite well for me.. I think better than the Seyco on board dust collection system that I bought.. I just have too loud of a vac to use it all day long, LOL... and too cheap to buy a "new" festool or fein vac.. not found a used one yet that didn't look and act like it had been through a world war at a reasonable price.. But I really do like the dust port, think it'd be easy to put a T or Y in the piping to put a dust port up top side and have the saws bellows blower blow toward the above table vac port. Kinda wish I'd have went that route instead of the on board Seyco unit.. that doesn't seem like it'd have enough power to fix up a T or Y to collect from the top side.. 

[OCtoolguy]

7 hours ago, SCROLLERNATION said:

Go big or go home!   Do you notice a lot of paint chipping and flaking off on your Hegner? 

All of the Hegners I have seen look like they have been dragged across the garage floor. The front edges of the table and the stands all look bad. 

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, SCROLLERNATION said:

I found a way to upgrade the dust collection on those so they don’t suck your work down and  its much more quiet.  Once I get everything on mass producing them to sell Ill let you guys know.  But one thing on those saws is awesome with the dust collection.  Compound cutting it sucks the dust from top and bottom when you cut.  I use a foredom dust collector I got from Seyco and there is also a remote switch you can stick on the leg of the ex models.  Its very quiet and even with a cyclone system on low it hs plenty of quiet power.  It is pricey though.  Worth it. 

We have had an ongoing discussion regarding dust control and I have built a system that is onboard and moves with the saw. I can take my saw outdoors and the system goes with it. It's all controlled off the foot switch. It incorporates a MetroVac500 with a mini cyclone. It has above and below dust pickups. And since I made a home brew muffler for the vac, it's also very quiet.

 

[OCtoolguy]

47 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I found the dust port on the EX to work quite well for me.. I think better than the Seyco on board dust collection system that I bought.. I just have too loud of a vac to use it all day long, LOL... and too cheap to buy a "new" festool or fein vac.. not found a used one yet that didn't look and act like it had been through a world war at a reasonable price.. But I really do like the dust port, think it'd be easy to put a T or Y in the piping to put a dust port up top side and have the saws bellows blower blow toward the above table vac port. Kinda wish I'd have went that route instead of the on board Seyco unit.. that doesn't seem like it'd have enough power to fix up a T or Y to collect from the top side.. 

Kevin, the MetroVac looks like the Seyco unit and the one I have works great with a t'd setup.

 

[kmmcrafts]

34 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Kevin, the MetroVac looks like the Seyco unit and the one I have works great with a t'd setup.

 

I’m actually working in the shop on making a T set up for my homemade set up right now. I’ll have to wait until I take a trip to town for some pieces I need. 

[Rockytime]

6 hours ago, ben2008 said:

Thanks for the tip Kevin. I'll check it out.

No, the barrel clamp still allows the blade to go all the way through. At least the one I just bought from Home Depot does.  I just set the barrel on the edge of the scroll saw table and insert the blade to let the table set the depth of the blade if that makes sense. Then I lightly tighten it to start. Then I use the built-in opening on each side of the saw to tighten it the rest of the way. That makes it nice for left and right handers by having it on both sides. That is one of the irritating things I had to put up with on my old RBI. To tighten the blade in the barrel you had to use the left side of the saw on the RBI. I'm right handed. I really have no problem with this saw. I do have 3 new barrel clamps on order. I'll let you and others know if they solved that problem. I agree, the hole should not go all the way through.

Barely clamps are the way to go. I made barrel clamps for my 16" Hawk discarding the outer brass bushing. Never understood what good they were. I then modified them for my Hegners. I also bought Jet clamps. They have a humongous through hole. I plugged one side and made a smaller hole opposite. About a #55 drill size. No need to go to all that trouble. Just plug one hole with anything. Wood sliver, round toothpick or even epoxy plug would work. Perhaps you need two holes for the Jet. I have never looked at the Jet even though Woodcraft had one on display. Round clamps are simple to use. Poke blade in hole and saw!

[Scrappile]

1 hour ago, Rockytime said:

Barely clamps are the way to go. I made barrel clamps for my 16" Hawk discarding the outer brass bushing. Never understood what good they were. I then modified them for my Hegners. I also bought Jet clamps. They have a humongous through hole. I plugged one side and made a smaller hole opposite. About a #55 drill size. No need to go to all that trouble. Just plug one hole with anything. Wood sliver, round toothpick or even epoxy plug would work. Perhaps you need two holes for the Jet. I have never looked at the Jet even though Woodcraft had one on display. Round clamps are simple to use. Poke blade in hole and saw!

Les,, I guess I don't understand why you feel the barrel clamps are better for the Hegner..  What are their advantages?

[OCtoolguy]

2 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Les,, I guess I don't understand why you feel the barrel clamps are better for the Hegner..  What are their advantages?

Cheaper for one thing! I had to buy a couple of bottom clamps as my saw only came with one. Add the Quick clamp plus shipping and Boom! $75 bucks.

Edited August 1, 2021 by octoolguy

[Rockytime]

9 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Les,, I guess I don't understand why you feel the barrel clamps are better for the Hegner..  What are their advantages?

I have the Hegner fast clamps for both of my Hegners.  There is a slot in which to insert the blade. If I remember the left index finger holds the arm down with the thumb holding the blade in place with the right hand tightening the knob. Seemed kind of awkward to me. With the barrel clamp it is just popping the blade into the little hole and tighten the knob. very fast. If I can find my video I'll post it.