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Excalibur with Pégas chuck-heads not breaking 2/0 blades


xocd

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As commented in a previous topic, my Excalibur saw was breaking 2/0 blades. (I use 2/0 blades for marquetry.)  Leaving slack on the blade before tightening solves the problem, sort of: blades do break every so often, when there is not enough slack; and, the tension on the blade is erratic, sometimes too slack.  The saw was not giving warms and fuzzies. Sawing was not fun.

I took the plunge and ordered the Pégas chuck-heads.  Installation was a breeze, once I found a 7mm wrench and a 3mm hex key.  I am happy to report that I am not breaking blades and that the tension on the blades is consistent.  Also, the saw seems to run more smoothly; this could be a figment of my imagination.

 

xocd

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2 hours ago, xocd said:

As commented in a previous topic, my Excalibur saw was breaking 2/0 blades. (I use 2/0 blades for marquetry.)  Leaving slack on the blade before tightening solves the problem, sort of: blades do break every so often, when there is not enough slack; and, the tension on the blade is erratic, sometimes too slack.  The saw was not giving warms and fuzzies. Sawing was not fun.

I took the plunge and ordered the Pégas chuck-heads.  Installation was a breeze, once I found a 7mm wrench and a 3mm hex key.  I am happy to report that I am not breaking blades and that the tension on the blades is consistent.  Also, the saw seems to run more smoothly; this could be a figment of my imagination.

 

xocd

It's not your imagination. I also have Ex saws and after installing the Pegas kits, they both ran quieter and smoother.

 

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12 hours ago, xocd said:

This is more a comment on my ability than on the blades:  I find that, for now, I hope, Pegas 2/0 skip tooth blades cut too fast for me.  I am learning how to control them.

When I am dealing with a tricky section I use slower blades.

 

xocd

Next time you order blades, get a pack of "double skip" and see how you like them... Just a little less aggressive than the skip... I struggle with aggressive blades and I have been scrolling for a long time..  

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1 hour ago, Scrappile said:

Next time you order blades, get a pack of "double skip" and see how you like them... Just a little less aggressive than the skip... I struggle with aggressive blades and I have been scrolling for a long time..  

Paul, I tried them on my current project and didn't really like them. But I was using one of my Ex's. Maybe on the Hegner they might work better for me.

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1 hour ago, octoolguy said:

Paul, I tried them on my current project and didn't really like them. But I was using one of my Ex's. Maybe on the Hegner they might work better for me.

I use them mainly on my Hegner, but have cut with them on my Seyco... I have only used them in the 2/0 and 1 sizes.  And I am kinda off beat with blades... I am one of the few that does not care much for the Modified Geometry blades... I use them rarely.  Just too aggressive for me... What didn't you like about double skip?  not aggressive enough?

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1 hour ago, Scrappile said:

I use them mainly on my Hegner, but have cut with them on my Seyco... I have only used them in the 2/0 and 1 sizes.  And I am kinda off beat with blades... I am one of the few that does not care much for the Modified Geometry blades... I use them rarely.  Just too aggressive for me... What didn't you like about double skip?  not aggressive enough?

No, I couldn't get them to go where I was trying to guide them to. I switched back to the modified geo blades and solved the problem. I'm still trying to figure out all the different types of blades much less the brand. I have never used anything but the #5 mg from Pegas and they work great. But the project that I'm working on demanded a smaller blade so I decided to try the #3 super skips that I just bought. I really bought them for doing 3-D stuff. I'm going to order some #1's and 2\0's. I only have 2/0's in a plain cut blade for doing marquetry. I bought them from a jewelry making place that was recommended by the teacher of the class I took. I bought 2 gross of them and haven't even unwrapped them yet. I'm making tissue box covers and I got an order for one with the hummingbirds on it. That has proven to be a real challenge for me. So far, I've cut the 4 sides 3 times and I'm still not happy with the look but they are going to have to suffice for now. The veining, to me, doesn't show enough with the #1 blades. I think it should be been done with a larger blade. But, when I tried it on the first set, it broke a couple of the tail feathers. But I think I know why now. So, the next time, I'll change how I do it.

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4 hours ago, octoolguy said:

No, I couldn't get them to go where I was trying to guide them to. I switched back to the modified geo blades and solved the problem. I'm still trying to figure out all the different types of blades much less the brand. I have never used anything but the #5 mg from Pegas and they work great. But the project that I'm working on demanded a smaller blade so I decided to try the #3 super skips that I just bought. I really bought them for doing 3-D stuff. I'm going to order some #1's and 2\0's. I only have 2/0's in a plain cut blade for doing marquetry. I bought them from a jewelry making place that was recommended by the teacher of the class I took. I bought 2 gross of them and haven't even unwrapped them yet. I'm making tissue box covers and I got an order for one with the hummingbirds on it. That has proven to be a real challenge for me. So far, I've cut the 4 sides 3 times and I'm still not happy with the look but they are going to have to suffice for now. The veining, to me, doesn't show enough with the #1 blades. I think it should be been done with a larger blade. But, when I tried it on the first set, it broke a couple of the tail feathers. But I think I know why now. So, the next time, I'll change how I do it.

Just a tip that I do with veining to get more detail. Not sure what you're cutting and may not work for your current project. If you cut the veining with your straight blade then pop in a small spiral blade. The spiral blade will pretty much follow the original flat blade cut line.. and you open up the veining width. I do this with most of the car clocks I make for the body lines.. I normally cut with a #3 Pegas MG. Then swap over to a 2/0 FD-NS and open up the veining. Practice on some scrap to get a feel for it.. but seriously the spiral likes to follow the path of least resistance.. which is sort of why many struggle to use them on solid lumber as the different grain lines etc. are different densities.. Learning to control spirals works best on BBply as it is more consistent than a solid lumber.  

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1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

Just a tip that I do with veining to get more detail. Not sure what you're cutting and may not work for your current project. If you cut the veining with your straight blade then pop in a small spiral blade. The spiral blade will pretty much follow the original flat blade cut line.. and you open up the veining width. I do this with most of the car clocks I make for the body lines.. I normally cut with a #3 Pegas MG. Then swap over to a 2/0 FD-NS and open up the veining. Practice on some scrap to get a feel for it.. but seriously the spiral likes to follow the path of least resistance.. which is sort of why many struggle to use them on solid lumber as the different grain lines etc. are different densities.. Learning to control spirals works best on BBply as it is more consistent than a solid lumber.  

I don't own any spirals. I'll have to get some. Thanks.

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