OCtoolguy Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 (edited) I'm going to cut another one of the spiral bowls that I made a while back but this time I want to cut a wider kerf that the last one but I don't want to use a larger blade as it will give me a rougher cut. So, I dreamed up something that I tried and it seems to work but I thought I'd ask the question, so here goes. I'm going to try putting two brand new blades, Pegas #5 mgt, side by side so as to get the wider kerf but still have the nice smooth finish. I did try it in a piece of scrap wood and it seems to work. Anybody ever tried this and if so, any negative experience? I'm using a lot of tension so as to keep the blades tight together. This pattern was originally designed to be cut on a laser cutter. Edited September 4, 2021 by octoolguy crupiea 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 I have never tried anything like this. In my opinion I would get concerned about what would happen when the blades start to lose the sharpness. This would add the blades work and heat. I doubt they will expand or stretch the sme and this could cause a problem with the cut. Like I said I never tried this but the ways blades re-act to usage seems to be against this. Should be interesting to see what others say and what the out come of this is. Best of luck Ray. BTW interesting pattern. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crupiea Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 never thought of this Ray buy love the idea. Now you have me thinking. You know how dangerous that is so you will get what you get, lol OCtoolguy and danny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preprius Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Doesn't a spiral blade make a bigger kerf? It even has more teeth per inch. Wasn't the spiral blade made for making spiral bowls? LarryEA and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 47 minutes ago, preprius said: Doesn't a spiral blade make a bigger kerf? It even has more teeth per inch. Wasn't the spiral blade made for making spiral bowls? I have no experience with spirals but I've heard they leave ragged edges. That would go against what I'm trying to achieve. I guess I could try a #7 or bigger but I want the clean smooth cut of the 5's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolfmoonCT Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 You could try super gluing the blade ends together? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 (edited) On 9/4/2021 at 3:59 AM, WolfmoonCT said: You could try super gluing the blade ends together? Actually, with the high tension I have them under, they stay together. It remains to be seen how they wear. Will either one lose its tensil strength faster or will they wear at the same rate. I'll run the saw a bit slower to reduce the heat. A bit of experimentation should give me some idea. I get the impression that this is a new idea. Maybe one of the blade mfgrs will try making a thicker blade with finer teeth for those "wide kerf" situations. Scrolling is fun! Edited September 9, 2021 by OCtoolguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodmaster1 Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 If the picture is what you get it will be awesome! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 4 hours ago, Woodmaster1 said: If the picture is what you get it will be awesome! That's the first one I made but to me, the kerf needed to be wider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 That certainly is an interesting idea. I can't say I ever heard of anyone trying it before, so maybe you are on to something. No harm in trying it. What's the worst that could happen? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 5 hours ago, Bill WIlson said: That certainly is an interesting idea. I can't say I ever heard of anyone trying it before, so maybe you are on to something. No harm in trying it. What's the worst that could happen? Burn up two blades or succeed. One of the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 19 hours ago, OCtoolguy said: Burn up two blades or succeed. One of the two. At about $.25 per blade, it's probably worth the risk. danny and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 30 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said: At about $.25 per blade, it's probably worth the risk. I'll try this on my Hegner as it can run the slowest. I've been too busy to get back to this project. Maybe this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davevand Posted September 16, 2021 Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 Have you thought about using a #12 blade, Pegas #12 is .5mm thick OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 1 hour ago, Davevand said: Have you thought about using a #12 blade, Pegas #12 is .5mm thick That's true but then I lose the smooth finish. I don't want that. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted September 16, 2021 Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 Ray, you might look at Pegas Skip Reverse blades. The #5R MGT is .0142" thick and 11.3 tpi. The #9 Skip Reverse is .0173" thick and 11.8 tpi. Thicker blade and more tpi. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Ok, some of you folks wanted to know how it worked out. I used 3 sets of 2 FD-UR #5 and I did my cutting on my Ex 21 at about 1/3 speed. I achieved exactly what I hoped for. A wide kerf with a smooth finish. Very little sanding required. Pic attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe W. Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 I think you just started something new. Congrts for thinking outside the kerf. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjweb Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Ray, I knew you would figure it out, RJ OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2021 Here are a couple of pics of the bowl are the forming process. Tomorrow I'll glue the 12 "clips" in place to stabilze the arms. Then it's just a matter of the final sanding and finishing. This one is sold for $50. What is the general consensus of price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe W. Posted September 27, 2021 Report Share Posted September 27, 2021 supply and demand - charge what the market will bear - you can always go lower . . . or hold out for that person who LOVES IT and has the money to buy it. Reminds me of the cake making market - I think reputation can help you when it comes to pricing - if you produce good works, and you do - you will increase you chances of making a sale. Also, how does this piece compare to your other works - time to make and materials cost wise? my two pennies worth. regardless, good luck and keep up the good works. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2021 21 minutes ago, Joe W. said: supply and demand - charge what the market will bear - you can always go lower . . . or hold out for that person who LOVES IT and has the money to buy it. Reminds me of the cake making market - I think reputation can help you when it comes to pricing - if you produce good works, and you do - you will increase you chances of making a sale. Also, how does this piece compare to your other works - time to make and materials cost wise? my two pennies worth. regardless, good luck and keep up the good works. Joe, when asked how much I would charge for making this, the lady who is buying it didn't flinch at $50. My materials are almost nada but my time is worth something. I enjoy doing this stuff so it's a hobby and my time really doesn't matter but if I'm going to make things to order, I have to take that into consideration. I make a lot of stuff for gifts at no charge at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted September 27, 2021 Report Share Posted September 27, 2021 The idea is unique to me. Hope it works. At worst you you lose a couple blades and a little wood. Like Thomas Edison said, " I didn't fail, I found a 1000 ways it didn't work.' Best wishes for success. OCtoolguy and Joe W. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted September 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2021 A couple more pics before final sanding & finishing. I think I'm going with Watco oil in dark walnut. Any suggestions? Finishing is my weak area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjweb Posted September 29, 2021 Report Share Posted September 29, 2021 looking good Ray, RJ OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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