Cutting 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 PADAUK WOOD?

[hawkeye10]

I made my grandson a chess board and now he wants me to make him the chess men. He wants the chess men to be made of padauk and hard maple. I made the king yesterday out of padauk and it was a bear to cut. To cut this I used the # 5 Pegas  (MGT) Blades. It took me over 2 hours and about 8 blades. The king is 3 3/4" tall and 1 1/4" at the base. Here is a picture of the king I cut. I will have to do this over because there is a bad mistake on the other side.

[FrankEV]

Uing the "laughing" like button was not meant to be down putting...I just found your story to be funny!

I know nothing about Padauk, so I can't be any help there other than to say Walnut or Mahogany might be acceptable contrasting alternatives, as we all know that they cut nicely.

Still chuckleing about "2 hours and 8 blades" later only to have a "bad mistale"!!!!!!!!!  Sorry.

 

[hawkeye10]

1 minute ago, FrankEV said:

Uing the "laughing" like button was not meant to be down putting...I just found your story to be funny!

I know nothing about Padauk, so I can't be any help there other than to say Walnut or Mahogany might be acceptable contrasting alternatives, as we all know that they cut nicely.

Still chuckleing about "2 hours and 8 blades" later only to have a "bad mistale"!!!!!!!!!  Sorry.

 

It's been a long time since I did any scrolling. I was pretty happy with how it turned out, even tho I made a bad mistake. Frank, Padauk is a very hard wood, but it's is pretty and that what we wanted.

[Denny Knappen]

Yes, Padauk is hard.  When compound cutting, I use Pegas #6 or #7 Skip blades.  The MGT blades have reverse teeth which can clog the kerf.  the #5R MGT blades have 11.3 tpi and the #6 Skip blade has 12.0 tpi.  You are not far from Dayton, so you might stop by the store and check out the Pegas Scroll Saw.

One thing about the Padauk is the dust.  It gets all over everything.  Also I noticed it darkens with age. 

[OCtoolguy]

You might want to try a skip or super skip tooth blade to clear the dust from the kerf. I used the #5 mgt blades on 1 1/2" mahogany but after the fact I was advised this.

[don in brooklin on]

With thick hardwood I always wrap with box tape.  I seems to help.

I also experiment with blades.  If my go-to blade, FD-UR #5, doesn't work I try the MGT or my best luck comes with the FD polar blades. As Denny says you do not want the reverse teeth.

Padauk is 1725 on the hardness scale and purple heart is 2090 which I have cut bird houses with polar blades. (slowly)

 

[lawson56]

I play Chess myself, Love the game, the board is Beautiful. The King is Fantastic, Never cut that wood, so I can't comment either way. But it sounds like you have a long and( blady) road ahead of you.

[Jim Blume]

The last compound cut chess set I did, I used walnut and birch, both which cut nicely with great contrast. Not sure what the density of padauk is, but hard maple is a bit tough as well. I wish you the best as you continue with the project, and I am sure it will end up being an heirloom piece treasured forever.

 

[Jim Blume]

Here is a good reference you might wish to copy and refer to as time goes on.

https://woodandshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/janka-wood-hardness-wood-and-shop.pdf

[redwine]

As Frank and others have said, it is a hard wood and I would use at least a #5 skip tooth, even a #7 and do take your time and don't push the wood into the blade! Denny made the comment about the dust, it is a fine dust and one of the things I have discovered about the dust, when you finish cutting all of the pieces make sure that your saw and table are absolutely clean and do not use the blades to cut any other woods! The dust will find its way into a cut or will pick it up off of the table and will stain lighter colored wood especially maple!  The chess board you have made is top notch and  once you have all of the pieces cut, it will be a joy to play on! 

Erv

[rjweb]

It beautiful, looking for the complete set to be finished, RJ

[bandaideman]

Maybe it's time for the grandson to take up Scroll sawing and you can give advice as it goes. I have done she pieces and board a few times they are always a challenge. I often get the blank set up and cut one taking the time and energy it takes then put on a few ornaments or other small things and have time with easier cut fast as you want then cut another chess piece seems to go faster but I am sure it is slower.

[preprius]

A guy at woodcrafters say paduak will change color. Some of his customers use a slight orange tint too keep the orange.  Only on the first coat of protection.  

 

Oh boy that king looks nnnnniiiicccee.  So nice that the queen will date him.  or the other queen will eat him up.  Depending on players ability.

 

[hawkeye10]

9 hours ago, Denny Knappen said:

Yes, Padauk is hard.  When compound cutting, I use Pegas #6 or #7 Skip blades.  The MGT blades have reverse teeth which can clog the kerf.  the #5R MGT blades have 11.3 tpi and the #6 Skip blade has 12.0 tpi.  You are not far from Dayton, so you might stop by the store and check out the Pegas Scroll Saw.

One thing about the Padauk is the dust.  It gets all over everything.  Also I noticed it darkens with age. 

Hey Denny, can you sand me a link for the blade I need? It would help a lot. Thanks, Don.

[daveww1]

very nice work

[Denny Knappen]

14 hours ago, hawkeye10 said:

Hey Denny, can you sand me a link for the blade I need? It would help a lot. Thanks, Don.

Don, the #6 Skip blade is out of stock, but I do have the 3 dozen pack and 12 dozen pack.  Here is the link for the #7 Skip blade.  Orders over $35 shipped free.

90.408 Pegas #7 Skip 14.9 tpi 12 / pack | Pegas scroll saw (artcraftersonline.com)

[munzieb]

Great job on the chess board and game piece.

Padauk is a very hard wood and will always change color(darken) after time. Most of what I have cut is either 1/4 or 1/8" and it will handle smaller blades but they do wear out fast. Padauk has a sort of peppery smell when cut. It didn't take long to figure out I should be using a mask because it did affect me after a while. I actually prefer Bubinga. It is also a hard wood but retains its color and has a beautiful sheen when lacquered. (still use a mask)

[Fedido]

I love bubinga, padauk and especially bloodwood. I have scrolled all of them. I use a FD UR #5 and due to isn’t density, I put painters tape on the back to help with the burning. You have to cut very slow and let the blade dictate the speed. If it still breaks blades, then opt up to a FD UR#7. If that still breaks blades, take a chainsaw to it and tear it up and then go online to see if you can find those pieces there. Good luck and nice board

[preprius]

I have cut all those except bubinga.  

I guess I will need to go get a chain saw for bubinga.

 

[Fedido]

Bubinga and bloodwood are stunning which makes it all worth it. On the janka scale, bloodwood is only slightly more dense, at that range, what is a couple hundred amongst hardwoods. Either way, chainsaw or TNT/C4 are all viable options. 

[Wichman]

On 9/16/2021 at 11:29 AM, don in brooklin on said:

With thick hardwood I always wrap with box tape.  I seems to help.

I also experiment with blades.  If my go-to blade, FD-UR #5, doesn't work I try the MGT or my best luck comes with the FD polar blades. As Denny says you do not want the reverse teeth.

Padauk is 1725 on the hardness scale and purple heart is 2090 which I have cut bird houses with polar blades. (slowly)

 

I'll second the FD polar blades. I have cut sliding dovetails in 1 1/2 purpleheart with these.  In addition to going slow, when you come to a turn back up and gently go back and forth to help clear the sawdust from the kerf.

The cutting looks top notch.