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Let’s try this again.


rdatelle

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Hi again everyone. Travis showed me how to get the video on here. I got the new parts from Denny for my EX21. New tension lever and knob kit. I have a little play in the arm and I’m not sure if that’s normal. It seems too come and go. I do have some vibration but I think it’s because I’m on a concrete floor. See if you can make anything of the play in the arm. Thanks.

 

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7 minutes ago, trackman said:

I top feed an when I put the blade in I pull down on the blade to get all the slack out of the arm. You can do the same thing if you bottom feed by pulling up on blade. Don’t know if this will help but my EX sounds like that when the blade gets loose. 

I bottom feed and I pull down on the upper arm before tightening the clamp. Takes all the slack out before tensioning.

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Ralph I had the same problem and noise. I called Ray and had a long talk on the phone with him. I was told to hold both the upper and lower mounting clamps and see if I could still feel the play when I tried to move them Mine eventually got tracked out to the arm on the motor that hooks up to the parallel arms. Ha a dry bearing from the factory and it was worn. New bearing and all was well. Just a thought, it is a slow gentle process but may reveal where the issue is. Good luck . 

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8 hours ago, WayneMahler said:

Ralph I had the same problem and noise. I called Ray and had a long talk on the phone with him. I was told to hold both the upper and lower mounting clamps and see if I could still feel the play when I tried to move them Mine eventually got tracked out to the arm on the motor that hooks up to the parallel arms. Ha a dry bearing from the factory and it was worn. New bearing and all was well. Just a thought, it is a slow gentle process but may reveal where the issue is. Good luck . 

Yeah, that's what my saw was doing.. and it was the bearings in the back of the saw by the motor.. By the looks of the table it has had a lot of use.. If it's never been apart and had grease added or new bearings installed then I'd almost bet that is the issue.. If it's not the issue right now, I'm thinking it's coming sooner than later. Ray sells the whole assembly with bearings already pressed in and it's not too hard of a job to do really. I did it a year ago and posted a lot of photos.. Parts was like $120 that made my saw brand new again.. 

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5 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah, that's what my saw was doing.. and it was the bearings in the back of the saw by the motor.. By the looks of the table it has had a lot of use.. If it's never been apart and had grease added or new bearings installed then I'd almost bet that is the issue.. If it's not the issue right now, I'm thinking it's coming sooner than later. Ray sells the whole assembly with bearings already pressed in and it's not too hard of a job to do really. I did it a year ago and posted a lot of photos.. Parts was like $120 that made my saw brand new again.. 

I saved all your rebuild info for when I do it. Thanks Kevin.

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19 hours ago, rdatelle said:

Hi again everyone. Travis showed me how to get the video on here. I got the new parts from Denny for my EX21. New tension lever and knob kit. I have a little play in the arm and I’m not sure if that’s normal. It seems too come and go. I do have some vibration but I think it’s because I’m on a concrete floor. See if you can make anything of the play in the arm. Thanks.

 

Okay, after watching this a few more times and realizing that adding weight to the table makes me have to ask.. Is the stands legs planted firmly on the floor? Also is it backed up against a wall or touching any other tools or bench etc. ?

That play is a little on the excessive side but they all have "some" play in those link ends as there are around 20 pivot points and bearings.. to more you have the more just a smidgen of wear on each one will translate to a fair amount way out at the end of the arms where the blade is.. I just rebuilt my saw and it has not quite as much slop as yours has but still a fair amount.. You don't get that kind of slop with a saw that only has two pivot points for wear to set in until they are really worn..

Since it stops when adding some pressure / weight to the table tells me your stand isn't planted to the floor real good. You may try to run it and sort of hit / kick / bump whatever you want to call it at the stands legs hard enough to slightly move the saw.. It may find a resting spot and stop doing this. IF this is new sound since adding the Pegas chucks you may have bumped the stand while working on it just enough to slightly move it out of level.. I almost always do that when trying to work on my saw.. 

If it were a bad bearing it probably wouldn't matter if you put weight on it or not.. the sound would still be there.. might change tone but would still be there..   

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21 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Okay, after watching this a few more times and realizing that adding weight to the table makes me have to ask.. Is the stands legs planted firmly on the floor? Also is it backed up against a wall or touching any other tools or bench etc. ?

That play is a little on the excessive side but they all have "some" play in those link ends as there are around 20 pivot points and bearings.. to more you have the more just a smidgen of wear on each one will translate to a fair amount way out at the end of the arms where the blade is.. I just rebuilt my saw and it has not quite as much slop as yours has but still a fair amount.. You don't get that kind of slop with a saw that only has two pivot points for wear to set in until they are really worn..

Since it stops when adding some pressure / weight to the table tells me your stand isn't planted to the floor real good. You may try to run it and sort of hit / kick / bump whatever you want to call it at the stands legs hard enough to slightly move the saw.. It may find a resting spot and stop doing this. IF this is new sound since adding the Pegas chucks you may have bumped the stand while working on it just enough to slightly move it out of level.. I almost always do that when trying to work on my saw.. 

If it were a bad bearing it probably wouldn't matter if you put weight on it or not.. the sound would still be there.. might change tone but would still be there..   

Thanks kev, I'll mess around with that. It is sitting on my garage floor.I did tighten the stand up at one time but haven't done it in a while. It was in storage for over eight months and bouncing around on the pods during transport. Who knows what might of happened in that time. First I'll make sure everything is tight and then move it around a little while it's running. I'll see what happens. Thanks for all the help and info.

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On 10/7/2021 at 1:00 PM, OCtoolguy said:

Ralph, my shop has a plywood floor sitting on 4x4's so it is springy. I bought 4 packages of the foam flooring from H/F. All my saws are sitting on that stuff and none of them have vibration problems. I thought the Hegner might but even it is good. Give it a try.

I Think  a lot of it is coming from the concrete floor. It really doesn't sit too good on that. I was thinking on anchoring it to a piece of plywood and see if that helps.

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3 minutes ago, rdatelle said:

I Think  a lot of it is coming from the concrete floor. It really doesn't sit too good on that. I was thinking on anchoring it to a piece of plywood and see if that helps.

Is it not good smooth level concrete? I don't have the issues on concrete but I will say.. when I went to look at the first hawk I bought the guy had a wood floor and had bolted a sheet on 3/4 - 1" plywood on the bottom of the saw.. that thing was horrible with vibration.. Unbolting the plywood and loosen up the stand in my shop where i planned to park it.. let everything kind of level itself out and then retightening the stand made the saw as smooth as a sewing machine.. IF for some reason the saw gets bumped and knocked out of that spot.. It'll pick up some minimal vibration.. and I have a brand new concrete slab in my new shop that is pretty level.. doesn't take much of a change to make a saw pick up some vibration / noise.. Those parallel link arm saws run really smooth but will make noises like this when they get moved out of their spot.. 

You mentioned the saw had been in storage, I don't know if you moved the saw or not.. I think loosening up the stand bolts and wiggle the saw around a bit so it'll settle into the parked spot and then tighten up the bolts might do the needed trick.. On my Hawks.. I bought the little rubber feet that can bolt to the legs and can be adjusted by the two nuts on the stud and can basically level my saw to its spot where ever in the shop I want it to be.. My new shop isn't nearly as picky about it as my old shop is.. as the new shop had the concrete work done by the pro's and the old shop I did it myself..  

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2 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Is it not good smooth level concrete? I don't have the issues on concrete but I will say.. when I went to look at the first hawk I bought the guy had a wood floor and had bolted a sheet on 3/4 - 1" plywood on the bottom of the saw.. that thing was horrible with vibration.. Unbolting the plywood and loosen up the stand in my shop where i planned to park it.. let everything kind of level itself out and then retightening the stand made the saw as smooth as a sewing machine.. IF for some reason the saw gets bumped and knocked out of that spot.. It'll pick up some minimal vibration.. and I have a brand new concrete slab in my new shop that is pretty level.. doesn't take much of a change to make a saw pick up some vibration / noise.. Those parallel link arm saws run really smooth but will make noises like this when they get moved out of their spot.. 

You mentioned the saw had been in storage, I don't know if you moved the saw or not.. I think loosening up the stand bolts and wiggle the saw around a bit so it'll settle into the parked spot and then tighten up the bolts might do the needed trick.. On my Hawks.. I bought the little rubber feet that can bolt to the legs and can be adjusted by the two nuts on the stud and can basically level my saw to its spot where ever in the shop I want it to be.. My new shop isn't nearly as picky about it as my old shop is.. as the new shop had the concrete work done by the pro's and the old shop I did it myself..  

The newest Hegner I bought, actually it's a 1991 single speed, is sitting on my concrete driveway. It made a terrible racket and vibrated horribly. I put it on a piece of that foam rubber. That helped a lot. Then I sort of slid the whole saw and rubber a bit until it settled on a flat spot and it quieted right down. I know that the Hegners are supposed to be bolted down but I have been watching a bunch of videos done by a German guy on Youtube. All in German but you can sort of figure out what he's talking about. He has a bunch of saws bolted to pieces of plywood and just set on his workbench. He doesn't seem to have any problems with vibration.. Every saw is different I think. Way back when I first came on board here I think you Kevin talked about placing a sand bag under the saw on it's lower bracing. That might also help. But, I'm not going to be doing that. I have enough back problems.

 

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4 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

The newest Hegner I bought, actually it's a 1991 single speed, is sitting on my concrete driveway. It made a terrible racket and vibrated horribly. I put it on a piece of that foam rubber. That helped a lot. Then I sort of slid the whole saw and rubber a bit until it settled on a flat spot and it quieted right down. I know that the Hegners are supposed to be bolted down but I have been watching a bunch of videos done by a German guy on Youtube. All in German but you can sort of figure out what he's talking about. He has a bunch of saws bolted to pieces of plywood and just set on his workbench. He doesn't seem to have any problems with vibration.. Every saw is different I think. Way back when I first came on board here I think you Kevin talked about placing a sand bag under the saw on it's lower bracing. That might also help. But, I'm not going to be doing that. I have enough back problems.

 

May have been me that suggested it but I don't believe in masking the problem without trying to level the stand out to the floor and tuning the saw etc. first.. It really amazes me how out of level a good looking concrete floor can be even if it's a nice "looking level" floor you might think you have.. as I said.. If my Hawk gets bumped slightly it's throw everything out of wack and you might think it's a bad bearing or something but then kinda kick outward on the stand legs and it settles right back in.. runs smooth again. Rolf mentions this quite often too.. again.. the parallel link arm saws are not nearly as picky as these Hawks and I assume Hegners are about being on a level surface. But if you put a stand together in one shop and then move to another.. it may need to have the stand loosened up and have it settled into the new spot.. 

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6 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

May have been me that suggested it but I don't believe in masking the problem without trying to level the stand out to the floor and tuning the saw etc. first.. It really amazes me how out of level a good looking concrete floor can be even if it's a nice "looking level" floor you might think you have.. as I said.. If my Hawk gets bumped slightly it's throw everything out of wack and you might think it's a bad bearing or something but then kinda kick outward on the stand legs and it settles right back in.. runs smooth again. Rolf mentions this quite often too.. again.. the parallel link arm saws are not nearly as picky as these Hawks and I assume Hegners are about being on a level surface. But if you put a stand together in one shop and then move to another.. it may need to have the stand loosened up and have it settled into the new spot.. 

The problem with the Hegner stands is they are welded. There is no way to do anything to them. My 2 Ex saws are on wooden stands that have 2 7" wheels on one end. I have them sitting on the foam. They have zero vibration problems. I am able to move them out onto my driveway and they still don't vibrate. I think they might be noisier out there though.

 

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1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

May have been me that suggested it but I don't believe in masking the problem without trying to level the stand out to the floor and tuning the saw etc. first.. It really amazes me how out of level a good looking concrete floor can be even if it's a nice "looking level" floor you might think you have.. as I said.. If my Hawk gets bumped slightly it's throw everything out of wack and you might think it's a bad bearing or something but then kinda kick outward on the stand legs and it settles right back in.. runs smooth again. Rolf mentions this quite often too.. again.. the parallel link arm saws are not nearly as picky as these Hawks and I assume Hegners are about being on a level surface. But if you put a stand together in one shop and then move to another.. it may need to have the stand loosened up and have it settled into the new spot.. 

Yea, Kev, I think I will loosen all the stand bolts and let it settle and retighten them, Can't hurt. This was moved from georgia to Florida by movers and stored in Florida on a Pod and then delivered to me when my house was built in Florida so it has been bounced around a little. I'll see what happens when I level it.

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