Going To Try Super Sharps Brand Blades

[OCtoolguy]

37 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

That'll be nice.. I look forward to seeing the finished piece. 

It would have been easy to do this but by going taller and narrower I had to increase the angle and add more layers. The one good thing that has come out of it is I was forced to learn some more Inkscape to create the pattern for the octagonal layers. They will all be cut from one piece of 1/2" x 12" x 12" oak. Each one is 3/16" in width. Gonna be a nail biter.

[rjweb]

Looks good Ray, keep us posted on your progress, RJ 

[OCtoolguy]

44 minutes ago, rjweb said:

Looks good Ray, keep us posted on your progress, RJ 

Will do. Thanks.

[OCtoolguy]

Well, to sum up my feelings re:PS Woods Super Sharp blades, I used a #7 to cut the frame work on my vase out of 3/4" oak. They did an OK job but nothing to warrant spending the big money on them. I also tried #5's but they were a definite no-go. Then I swapped saws to my favorite Excalibur 21 and some Pegas #5mgt blades. WOW! Big difference. I love those blades. I'll not be experimenting anymore unless I feel that there might be a better way. I have 7 tubes of Super Sharps with about 5 dozen in each tube. They will be there for all time. Well, maybe to cut up firewood or something. LOL.

 

[kmmcrafts]

11 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

Well, to sum up my feelings re:PS Woods Super Sharp blades, I used a #7 to cut the frame work on my vase out of 3/4" oak. They did an OK job but nothing to warrant spending the big money on them. I also tried #5's but they were a definite no-go. Then I swapped saws to my favorite Excalibur 21 and some Pegas #5mgt blades. WOW! Big difference. I love those blades. I'll not be experimenting anymore unless I feel that there might be a better way. I have 7 tubes of Super Sharps with about 5 dozen in each tube. They will be there for all time. Well, maybe to cut up firewood or something. LOL.

 

I wonder how you'd feel about the blades run on the same saw.. because no matter how straight up down you get the blade on a EX21 it cuts more aggressive than the Hawk does.. and I kind of assume Hegner too but I can't vouch for that because I've not run one.. I have a old Delta 16" saw that has the longer arms style like the Hawk and it cuts a lot like the Hawk.. Those double parallel arm saws have a rocking motion to the blade and makes them cut a little more aggressive.. There was a time when I first started using the Pegas MFG blades that I didn't like them in the DW788 I had but loved them in the Hawk, Now I use them pretty much exclusively no matter what saw

[OCtoolguy]

2 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I wonder how you'd feel about the blades run on the same saw.. because no matter how straight up down you get the blade on a EX21 it cuts more aggressive than the Hawk does.. and I kind of assume Hegner too but I can't vouch for that because I've not run one.. I have a old Delta 16" saw that has the longer arms style like the Hawk and it cuts a lot like the Hawk.. Those double parallel arm saws have a rocking motion to the blade and makes them cut a little more aggressive.. There was a time when I first started using the Pegas MFG blades that I didn't like them in the DW788 I had but loved them in the Hawk, Now I use them pretty much exclusively no matter what saw

Well, I have enough material left over that I'm going to make another of these vases. This time I'll use the Pegas blades on the Hegner and see how it works with them. I honestly think they are the best cutting blades out there and I have no problem with them straying off line or drifting like the FD blades do. I've experimented with some of the blades that many folks swear by but I keep coming back to the Pegas. I love them.

 

[kmmcrafts]

11 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

Well, I have enough material left over that I'm going to make another of these vases. This time I'll use the Pegas blades on the Hegner and see how it works with them. I honestly think they are the best cutting blades out there and I have no problem with them straying off line or drifting like the FD blades do. I've experimented with some of the blades that many folks swear by but I keep coming back to the Pegas. I love them.

 

I do agree with you about the Pegas blades being the best I've used as well, I was just kinda pointing out that using different saws is going to get different results when trying new blades.. etc. as they do each cut differently. What little I used the SS blades I felt like they was a close second to the Pegas as in cutting style, speed, and longevity of blade life... Not as clean of a cut on the bottom though.. But as you said, not worth the extra $$  I try to be educated on blades of all brands and get a feel for them.. There was a time some years ago that my "go to blade" was back ordered for several weeks.. and it was a mess to try to learn a new blade until I finally got my blade order.. Very possible especially these days that could happen again.. Probably not for me because I now keep a extra gross of my most used blades on hand. 

[OCtoolguy]

2 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I do agree with you about the Pegas blades being the best I've used as well, I was just kinda pointing out that using different saws is going to get different results when trying new blades.. etc. as they do each cut differently. What little I used the SS blades I felt like they was a close second to the Pegas as in cutting style, speed, and longevity of blade life... Not as clean of a cut on the bottom though.. But as you said, not worth the extra $$  I try to be educated on blades of all brands and get a feel for them.. There was a time some years ago that my "go to blade" was back ordered for several weeks.. and it was a mess to try to learn a new blade until I finally got my blade order.. Very possible especially these days that could happen again.. Probably not for me because I now keep a extra gross of my most used blades on hand. 

I'd think for the price that they are getting for those blades, the least they could do is give a reverse blade. The underside is not as pretty as with my Pegas blades. They just work.

 

[kmmcrafts]

So I had a clock order and had to cut some solid wood today... I cut 5/8" Cherry with the #5 super sharps.. I played around cutting the base for the 6 clocks with several different sizes and styles of blades. The bases are about 11" long straight cuts with rounded corners and about 2 " wide. The straight cuts are ripping the grain or cutting in the same direction of the grain and the 2" portion is cross cutting.. As everyone knows long straight cuts going with the grain can be a pain to cut. The #5 super sharps did perform better than the Pegas in my opinion.. Did all the cutting on the EX-21.. I also ran some blades ( I used to like ) Olsen PGT #5 and PGT double skip tooth which wasn't as good for me as the Pegas but slightly better than the FD-UR... 

I think I'd consider using them more if I were doing a lot of thick solid wood cutting. Blades did last quite a long time for me.. maybe about 1/4 - 1/2 times longer than the Pegas lasted.. which is quite a lot more than the FD-UR blades.. 

Next test... I want to try the #2 and maybe even the #5 on poplar for the 3/4" puzzles whenever I get a chance at making some of those again.. They might perform quite well for those.. 

Anyway, that is my experience so far with these.. Hopefully I'll be able to try them on a puzzle soon.

Something I've never done is compound cutting ( is that what it's called ) where you cut those thick blocks of wood on two sides to create those ornament and birdhouses.. I think the SS blades would be the only way to go on those.. LOL  

[Sycamore67]

When I read this thread, I come to one conclusion and that is use the right blade for each project.  The Super Sharps are great for thicker wood and compound cuts. But they are expensive.  Most of my cutting is for thicker wood and think the Super Sharps cut better than the FD Polar but both are skip tooth and designed to cut thicker wood.  I read where some cut thicker wood with a UR type blade and do not understand.  

Of course, the same goes for cutting thin wood and ply woods with a Super Sharp or skip tooth blade.  These projects cut best with Reverse or UR type blade.  Using the right type blade will go a long way to improve the cut.