Jump to content
🎄 🎄 🎄 2024 Custom Ornament Business Kit - Now Available - SALE 50% Off Through Dec. 2nd ×
Ornaments For Charity eBook - Designers Wanted! ​​​​​​​🙏 ×

Huge Break-Through (For Me) ((Puzzle Related))


jbrowning

Recommended Posts

Yeah that blade has to be spot on square to the table or you'll have issues.. I have a small square but I like to use a 1- 1/2 in tall block of scrap wood.. I saw into it just enough to get the full blade in past the edge on both upper and lower part of the block. Then spin the block around to the back of the blade.. it should slide right into the slot you just cut.. write the number blade on the block.. keep it handy as a reference.. it's quick and easy way to check before starting a project or even in the middle of a project.. If it's not 100% square it won't easily fit in that slot..  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, the blade has to be dead on square to the table to cut puzzles.

I keep a small square on my saw to check it. Backlighting when checking for square helps.

I once cut a puzzle from 1.5-inch thick southern yellow pine to see if I could do it. The thicker the wood, the more critical it is to be square.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah that blade has to be spot on square to the table or you'll have issues.. I have a small square but I like to use a 1- 1/2 in tall block of scrap wood.. I saw into it just enough to get the full blade in past the edge on both upper and lower part of the block. Then spin the block around to the back of the blade.. it should slide right into the slot you just cut.. write the number blade on the block.. keep it handy as a reference.. it's quick and easy way to check before starting a project or even in the middle of a project.. If it's not 100% square it won't easily fit in that slot..  

Thanks Kevin, that's a great idea.

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, BadBob said:

Yep, the blade has to be dead on square to the table to cut puzzles.

I keep a small square on my saw to check it. Backlighting when checking for square helps.

I once cut a puzzle from 1.5-inch thick southern yellow pine to see if I could do it. The thicker the wood, the more critical it is to be square.

Thanks, the thickest I've ever used is 3/4". Lol I did end up using a light behind the square and it did help out a lot.

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Rolf said:

Another thing is to not push sideways in the turns. It takes a real conscious effort not to.

Glad you got it sorted.

 

Thanks Rolf, I normally stop and let up on the pressure that lets the flex out of the blade just before I start making a corner cut. I've found that helps me a lot.

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been cutting some puzzles from 3/4 popular using a #3. The hardest part is going slow while cutting the puzzle ‘keys’. 
Go slow enough so the bottom of the blade keeps up with the top of the blade.  Sometimes I do have to do some sanding, but I’m getting better!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Roberta Moreton said:

I have been cutting some puzzles from 3/4 popular using a #3. The hardest part is going slow while cutting the puzzle ‘keys’. 
Go slow enough so the bottom of the blade keeps up with the top of the blade.  Sometimes I do have to do some sanding, but I’m getting better!

I totally agree. Sometimes I catch myself trying to push too hard. Slow and Steady is the key....oh and a sharp blade. lol

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, jbrowning said:

I totally agree. Sometimes I catch myself trying to push too hard. Slow and Steady is the key....oh and a sharp blade. lol

Jim

As you say a sharp blade is crucial! Many new scrollers buy a few blades and think that they will last forever😮.  After you have scrolled for a while you will (hopefully) get a feel for when a blade needs to be changed.  That is especially critical when doing delicate fretwork and you find you are pushing too hard.  I just had a refresher course after cutting 54,  3/4" maple puzzles that needed a minimum gap so I used a Pegas  MGT 3R (12.4TPI) for minimum kerf. 

Edited by Rolf
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I drove myself crazy for months trying to square the table using a square or using the tilt gauge on the saw, etc, etc... Forget all of that, just start cutting tests on scrap wood, tweak the table a little, test again, etc until you find that perfect sweet spot where pieces slide in and out from both sides.  If you want to really baffle your mind, do it that way, then check it with a square and it won't be square, but it's the perfect setting.  😄

Edited by Iguanadon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Iguanadon said:

I drove myself crazy for months trying to square the table using a square or using the tilt gauge on the saw, etc, etc... Forget all of that, just start cutting tests on scrap wood, tweak the table a little, test again, etc until you find that perfect sweet spot where pieces slide in and out from both sides.  If you want to really baffle your mind, do it that way, then check it with a square and it won't be square, but it's the perfect setting.  😄

That's because squaring the blade to the table "starts with" centering the blade in the clamps first.. Or they can be off center but need to be in the same relative spot within the slot it sets in for both upper and lower clamps.. way off will cause issues. If one set screw is off center on one side and the other off on the opposite side you will never get a square blade via the square anyway.. This can also shorten blade life.. as the blade may be rubbing the sides of the board particularly with the bottom clamp as that one is closer, there is a lot of unused blade at the top side.. I had a issue with breaking blades at about the table level.. inspecting a broke blade noticing it was discolored from the heat because of this.. Yet it was cutting square.. at the table level. just going through a crapload of blades as the heat is the blades enemy..

Edited by kmmcrafts
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...