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And yet another finishing question!


OCtoolguy

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I wish there was a way to delete this once I get my answer but maybe someone else will benefit from it at a later time.
As  most of you know, I'm working on an oak dried flower vase for a customer. She wants it "unstained" and I take that to mean "natural". So my question is, if I was to apply a coat of Watco Danish oil in natural and let it dry well is it ok to spray a couple of coats of Minwax polyurethane over the oil? Or would it be better to just apply the poly without the oil? I know the oil will make the grain more prominent so I was thinking of doing that first. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. But please, don't confuse me any more than I already am. Thanks all.

 

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Edited by OCtoolguy
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2 hours ago, Dan said:

All my searches on Google say YES. I think it will look sweet with the Danish oil. Of coarse, it would look even better if it were filled with cheese and blueberry danish.

I was thinking jelly beans. I love jelly beans. I just bought 7 pounds of them today on Amazon. 

I did go ahead and put a coat of Watcos on it and now I'll have to wait a few days before shooting the poly. It sure brought out the red in the red oak. Looks good though.

 

Edited by OCtoolguy
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Yes it can be top coated with poly.. I do that from time to time on certain projects.. Just make sure you give it plenty of drying time especially being you're working with Oak.. I think the Danish oil says on the can to wait 48 hours? ( I can't remember ) I usually to to wait a week for oak.. OR.. instead of dipping the wood into the pan of oil I'll more less wipe it on so the grain will pop.. but not soak it since I'm planning to top coat.  oak likes to really soak up that oil into the open grain and seep it out for several days after.. Might not bother like that for you in your warmer temps.. I don't usually have that issue in the warmer dryer air.. but in these cooler temps it gives me a hard time.

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22 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yes it can be top coated with poly.. I do that from time to time on certain projects.. Just make sure you give it plenty of drying time especially being you're working with Oak.. I think the Danish oil says on the can to wait 48 hours? ( I can't remember ) I usually to to wait a week for oak.. OR.. instead of dipping the wood into the pan of oil I'll more less wipe it on so the grain will pop.. but not soak it since I'm planning to top coat.  oak likes to really soak up that oil into the open grain and seep it out for several days after.. Might not bother like that for you in your warmer temps.. I don't usually have that issue in the warmer dryer air.. but in these cooler temps it gives me a hard time.

Thanks Kevin. I brushed it on but not in large amounts. I knew it was going to soak up a lot if I dunked it so I just brushed it on and waited a few minutes and then wiped off as much as I could. It'll air dry now for 3 days and we'll see at that point.

 

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Danish oil is just a mix of oil (usually tung or linseed), polyurethane resins and thinner, so coating it with poly is fine.  The only problem I've ever had was not letting the oil cure long enough and having the top coat "wrinkle" or orange peel.

I use danish oil or equivalent almost exclusively on things that don't see heavy use. It's plenty of protection.

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6 hours ago, JAC1961 said:

Danish oil is just a mix of oil (usually tung or linseed), polyurethane resins and thinner, so coating it with poly is fine.  The only problem I've ever had was not letting the oil cure long enough and having the top coat "wrinkle" or orange peel.

I use danish oil or equivalent almost exclusively on things that don't see heavy use. It's plenty of protection.

Thanks. I appreciate your input. I've lightly coated it with Watco natural and will let it sit outdoors for a few days. I'm not in a big hurry so it can wait.

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