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drill bits


carl1

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1 hour ago, Denny Knappen said:

I use micro drill bits and it depends on the blade size.  The micro drill bit I use most is #60.

I have numbers 56-60 and use the #58 the most. My problem is that I bought a 3 jaw adapter for my drill press and I can't get the bit to "center" in the chuck. My drill press is pretty tight so I know the problem is the tiny chuck. Any advice? I get pretty good job from my Dremel plunge router but it spins so fast it burns up the bits. If I slow it down, it has no power. 

 

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4 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

I have numbers 56-60 and use the #58 the most. My problem is that I bought a 3 jaw adapter for my drill press and I can't get the bit to "center" in the chuck. My drill press is pretty tight so I know the problem is the tiny chuck. Any advice? I get pretty good job from my Dremel plunge router but it spins so fast it burns up the bits. If I slow it down, it has no power. 

 

Ray, I use a micro chuck head on the drill press at home.  Here at ArtCrafters,  use the Dremel.

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I use a Dremel plunge router also with a #60. I've got the new 4300 Dremel and haven't had any problem with power at a lower speed. If I have areas in the pattern that will accept a larger bit I'll use my drill press. I also have the smaller chuck to adapt my drill press to a smaller bit but found it didn't center as Ray experienced. When I want to use a bit in my drill press that is smaller than what it will clamp, I'll wrap a small copper wire around the base of the small bit and insert it into the drill press chuck. That seems to work pretty good.

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4 minutes ago, Dak0ta52 said:

I use a Dremel plunge router also with a #60. I've got the new 4300 Dremel and haven't had any problem with power at a lower speed. If I have areas in the pattern that will accept a larger bit I'll use my drill press. I also have the smaller chuck to adapt my drill press to a smaller bit but found it didn't center as Ray experienced. When I want to use a bit in my drill press that is smaller than what it will clamp, I'll wrap a small copper wire around the base of the small bit and insert it into the drill press chuck. That seems to work pretty good.

I've read here on the Village that some folks have better drill press chucks that will close down to zero. I'm hoping to find one of those that will fit my drill press.

 

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1 minute ago, Dak0ta52 said:

If you check with the manufacture of your drill press they usually have aftermarket chucks with the correct arbor you would need. Some of these will close to zero. If you know what arbor you need you can pull them up on Amazon. Seems the most common arbor is the JT33-MT1 or JT33-MT2

I'm looking for that info right now.

 

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2 hours ago, carl1 said:

I just made a Santa ornament and the actuating lines are narrower then the drill bit needed to start, the smallest i have are 1/16 . If you go smaller how do you get the blade threaded, I can barley get the blade in as is. What am I missing. Not good but here is pic of the ornament.

 

santa.jpg

Did you see my post about the wing? To cut the veining I used a FD new spiral 2/0 blade (diameter .031) and drilled pilot holes with a #65 (.035). The #60 drill bit is a little larger (.040) compare those numbers with a 1/16 bit (.0625). I get my blades and drill bits from Flying Dutchman.

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2 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

I've read here on the Village that some folks have better drill press chucks that will close down to zero. I'm hoping to find one of those that will fit my drill press.

 

Ray, I have a Jet JDP -17DX Drill Press.  The chuck closes all the way.  The only info on the chuck itself  says "1 - 16mm JT3".  Here is the manual for the DP. It has a Parts list in it, don't know how much info it gives.. I haven't got time to research it right now, I am just taking a break from trying to repair my clothes washer... Don't know what the heck I am doing, but I am giving it a try...

DP manual:

 

354173_man_EN.pdf

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1 hour ago, Scrappile said:

Ray, I have a Jet JDP -17DX Drill Press.  The chuck closes all the way.  The only info on the chuck itself  says "1 - 16mm JT3".  Here is the manual for the DP. It has a Parts list in it, don't know how much info it gives.. I haven't got time to research it right now, I am just taking a break from trying to repair my clothes washer... Don't know what the heck I am doing, but I am giving it a try...

DP manual:

 

354173_man_EN.pdf 765.06 kB · 1 download

Been there and done that. This last time around, it was something that I couldn't fix. I needed some way to test out the electronics. Turned out to be the motor controller. If I have known that, I could have saved the repair charge and about $100 on the cost of the part. 

Oh, and thanks for your input on the drill press. I found a chuck that will fit mine and it closes to zero. Now I just have to figure out if it's worth the $50.

 

Edited by OCtoolguy
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The OP was asking about saw blades for the smaller holes.  The answer is smaller blades.  For this problem I went to Pegas MGT 1 and MGT 2.0 blades.  

The answer is to pick the right drill bit for the pattern feature and then pick the corresponding drill bit.  

I can't find it, but somebody had posted a chart of drill bit size for each of the blades.  

 

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On 11/10/2021 at 7:52 AM, Algae said:

The OP was asking about saw blades for the smaller holes.  The answer is smaller blades.  For this problem I went to Pegas MGT 1 and MGT 2.0 blades.  

The answer is to pick the right drill bit for the pattern feature and then pick the corresponding drill bit.  

I can't find it, but somebody had posted a chart of drill bit size for each of the blades.  

 

I have a couple of things to add. This Pegas blade chart has the suggested drill bit for each blade size.  I also have a big drill bit chart on my shop wall that lists all bits number, fraction and metric. To me that is a must have for what I do. The smallest bit I use is a #70 (.028") for when I do beveled inlays. All of the really small bits should be used in a drill press or they will break.  I do a lot of stack cutting and have a dedicated Micro Mark drill press.   As for the Micro chucks not all are created equal You get what you pay for. Some of these small chucks have a serious runout.  

I did go nuts and replace my Delta 16" floor model drill press with the most awesome tool in my basement.  It has a chuck that goes from 5/8 to at least a #67 (.032") and the drill is quiet, no vibration as there are no belts and a speed range all the way up to 5500 rpm, great for small bits. I usually run the small bits at 3000. 

 

PegasChart.pdf

Edited by Rolf
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19 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

I have numbers 56-60 and use the #58 the most. My problem is that I bought a 3 jaw adapter for my drill press and I can't get the bit to "center" in the chuck. My drill press is pretty tight so I know the problem is the tiny chuck. Any advice? I get pretty good job from my Dremel plunge router but it spins so fast it burns up the bits. If I slow it down, it has no power. 

 

Ray I put a Jacobs 41 BA chuck in my drill press.  Got it from eBay.  It was under $30.  That chuck goes down to zero and does handle all the numbered bits.

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20 hours ago, carl1 said:

I just made a Santa ornament and the actuating lines are narrower then the drill bit needed to start, the smallest i have are 1/16 . If you go smaller how do you get the blade threaded, I can barley get the blade in as is. What am I missing. Not good but here is pic of the ornament.

 

santa.jpg

For the detailing lines I would use a 2/0 or smaller blade and a corresponding numbered drill bit per the blade manufacturing company's recommendation. 

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So, since this is about blades and drill hole sizes.. I'll put in my two penny's worth, LOL

I buy only a 56, 58, and 60 drill bits.. here is something I've learned about the hole size and the blade.. I mostly use Pegas MFG blades and mostly size #3 and #5.. same with FD-UR blades.. The Pegas blades require a bit larger hole.. apparently the blade ends are a bit larger than the blade teeth area? Anyway if I'm doing fine veining detail.. I do not use a Pegas blade because I have to start with a bigger hole and the kerf is small.. I do use a Pegas IF I'm going to be going back over the cut with a spiral blade to widen the kerf.. but if I'm not going to be widening the kerf then the FD-UR blade has a wider kerf to closer match the hole drilled.. I can't remember for sure now what size bit is recommended for the #3 Pegas.. but that drill bit hole won't fit for a #5 Pegas but will fit a #5 FD-UR.. which has a wider kerf than the Pegas #3.. 

Hope I made sense to you all on this.. This is why I keep and use several brands of blades.. Pegas is my main cutting go to blade.. however in cases like this.. I do use FD or Olsen blades for certain things.. to get better results in the details of the project.

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On 11/9/2021 at 2:52 PM, OCtoolguy said:

I have numbers 56-60 and use the #58 the most. My problem is that I bought a 3 jaw adapter for my drill press and I can't get the bit to "center" in the chuck. My drill press is pretty tight so I know the problem is the tiny chuck. Any advice? I get pretty good job from my Dremel plunge router but it spins so fast it burns up the bits. If I slow it down, it has no power. 

 

I have to run my Dremel plunge on the lowest speed

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