Building a saw stand

[Hawk]

I'm planning to build a stand for the King 16". The one point I'm wondering on is what to put between the saw and the bench top to help reduce vibration. I plan to run bolts through the bench top to secure the saw to the bench. But I was thinking a vibration pad might be useless with the saw bolted down. I thought about hockey pucks (I've used these on things like my table saw and bandsaw) but I'm not convinced that would help any either. So I'm wondering, If I'm bolting down to the bench top do I really need anything between the saw and bench top?

Chris

[timelett]

I am new to  scrolling, but is there that much vibration on a nice saw like that. I mounted my H F saw to a heavy bench that is lagged to the floor.

[Hawk]

4 minutes ago, timelett said:

I am new to  scrolling, but is there that much vibration on a nice saw like that. I mounted my H F saw to a heavy bench that is lagged to the floor.

Once I get it dialed in there isn't much, I strive for zero vibration, just my OCD kicking in. My Delta P-20 isn't bolted to the floor and has almost zero vibration, I can set a cup on the back of the table while cutting and it will still be there when I'm done cutting the piece. Pretty much the amount, if any vibration is strictly subjective to the person behind the saw. If you can get the saw to where you're comfortable, then you're good. 

I'm really on the fence as to weather or not I need any cushion between the saw and the bench top at all.

[OCtoolguy]

I have basically 2 of the same saws you have. I built my own roll-around stands for each one with self-contained vacuum dust control systems. I mounted them both directly to the plywood top. Both of my saws sit on foam shop flooring. The stuff advertised as anti-fatigue mat. I bought enough of the stuff at H/F to do the whole floor of my tiny shop. I get almost zero vibration out of any of my saw. My Hegner is not bolted down to the floor. It just sits on top of that same flooring. I do get a bit of vibration out of it way up in the RPM range but I very seldom got that fast. 

 

Edited November 10, 2021 by OCtoolguy

[Dan]

Chris, try it both ways. I have a P-20 on the stand, not bolted to the floor, and no vibration. Of course, the P-20 is probably one of the heaviest saws. I'd be interested to hear if some vibration reducing pads would make a difference for you. Report back if you decide to do the test for us.

Oh, and I hope your cup has a lid on it. Sawdust tends to degrade the taste of your beverage. 

[Hawk]

55 minutes ago, Dan said:

Chris, try it both ways. I have a P-20 on the stand, not bolted to the floor, and no vibration. Of course, the P-20 is probably one of the heaviest saws. I'd be interested to hear if some vibration reducing pads would make a difference for you. Report back if you decide to do the test for us.

Oh, and I hope your cup has a lid on it. Sawdust tends to degrade the taste of your beverage. 

No lid, saw dust keeps the Dr. away lol....

[kmmcrafts]

I don't think with the new King you have you'd need any cushion.. I had a Dremel 1800 saw years ago and that had some vibration right at the speeds I liked cutting at.. there were sweet spots ( a few of them ) but none the speed I wanted, and it was bolted to a nice metal ( factory dremel ) stand. I ended up using a piece of scrap carpet padding that I had left from replacing some carpet.. I put it between the saw and the stand and bolted it back down.. I ran the saw at the speeds I like and kept tightening the bolts rotating to each bolt a 1/2 turn or so at a time and I was able to make that saw run smooth mostly all the way through the speed dial.. there was one spot that still had a bit more vibration but it was still not to the point I couldn't cut at that speed.. 

I'd say bolt it directly to the stand.. If you have a issue.. maybe some padding could help.. but I don't think with these style saws you'll have any issue. 

[Dak0ta52]

I built my stand from 2X4s and used a 1 1/2 inch thick top from a repurposed table. I did put a layer of tool box drawer liner between the saw and table. The liner is from HF and was very inexpensive. Just to add, I started with a 3/4 inch plywood top and the vibration was intense. That's why I switched to the 1 1/2 inch top. Now the vibration is zero and I'm using a cheap WEN saw. I learned that a solid base is the key!

[Jaguarguy]

On 11/9/2021 at 7:42 PM, OCtoolguy said:

I have basically 2 of the same saws you have. I built my own roll-around stands for each one with self-contained vacuum dust control systems. I mounted them both directly to the plywood top. Both of my saws sit on foam shop flooring. The stuff advertised as anti-fatigue mat. I bought enough of the stuff at H/F to do the whole floor of my tiny shop. I get almost zero vibration out of any of my saw. My Hegner is not bolted down to the floor. It just sits on top of that same flooring. I do get a bit of vibration out of it way up in the RPM range but I very seldom got that fast. 

 

That's a great looking system!  I've been fighting with my saw "walking" around my workbench.  That might be a solution.  Thanks for sharing the pics!

[OCtoolguy]

14 hours ago, Jaguarguy said:

That's a great looking system!  I've been fighting with my saw "walking" around my workbench.  That might be a solution.  Thanks for sharing the pics!

If I can be of any help, let me know. 

[Woodmaster1]

I built a stand from a Steve Carmichael design.

[rash_powder]

When I built my stand I was having all kinds of vibration issues.  The cause was lack of weight and (mostly I think) the old stand was flexing too much.  

My new table top is a few inches bigger than the saw footprint in all directions and made of 2x4's laminated together to form a roughly 3" thick butcher block.  I cut the narrow edges off to get rid of the round-overs and sanded it smooth.  The cabinet is framed from 2x4's using 1/2 lap joints that are glued and screwed.  The whole lot is bolted together and skinned with 1/4" ply and rolls on casters.  I've a drawer installed with many more holes than I have tubes for blades.  Its very heavy, rolls very nicely, and absolutely cannot flex.  The only time it shakes is when one of the casters does not contact the floor - I used 4 and my basement floor wasn't poured very level.  

Its not 100% what I wanted but it works.  I have some improvements to make and some finishing to do yet someday.