Help on printing sigh

[timelett]

I use windows 10,and would like to make a small sigh with letters to print out and cut, help please

[kmmcrafts]

I'm not sure I'm understanding the question, Are you trying to print just the letters so you can glue the letters to a sign? 

[timelett]

Thanks, Yes would like to make the sigh 8by10 inch ,with two rows, eight letters on each row. Print on paper, and cut the letters on probably birch plywood 

[CharleyL]

You can do this with a word processor program like MS Word, Apache Open Office, etc., or a photo editing program like Photoshop, Paint, etc.

If a word processing program, you can change the Font (style of letters) and size. Then just type the words and spacings as you want. If there is a way to select paper size, you may want to set a custom size of 10" X 8 1/2" so the sign is wider than tall. 

For a Photo Processor, you also set the image size and font, then select the lettering tool. Then just type your message. Using a photo program you then get to position your typed line where you want by selecting the Move Tool. The letters are on a kind-of invisible layer above the background, something like clear plastic in function, so the Move Tool will let you move your typed line of letters around the background to place it wherever you want. If you add another line of text, it too will be added as an invisible layer and can be moved to position in the same way. If you need to again move the first line of text, you will need to select the first layer again (layers menu) so you can again move it. Each can be selected via the layer that it is on. When you have selected the desired layer you can edit or do anything without affecting the other layers. Each layer is saved separately when you save the file, unless you choose "Flatten Layers". When you select this, all of the created layers get combined with the first Background Layer and you can't separately edit them any more, but it does reduce the file size. 

Whenever I want to place many small patterns on a sheet of paper, I use this Layers Feature to copy and drag duplicates of the first image, each on a new layer, and placing as many as possible on the page. This creates a whole stack of layers with one duplicate pattern on each layer. Each can then be moved or modified by selecting the layer that the image is on that I want to modify or edit. I always save the file with all of the layers, so that I can go back and edit anything on any layer. The file will print out showing what you see, with all of the images and edits as you see them on the computer screen since the many layers themselves are invisible. Only the image on each layer will show in the printing, so the end result is one page with many images on it.

This is a bit tough to comprehend for someone new to this, so picture in your mind a sheet of paper lying on your work surface. Now print or draw many duplicate images, each on a clear sheet of plastic (layer). Place one of these sheets of plastic on top of your sheet of paper and move it around to put the image where you want it on your sheet of paper. Now repeat the process using another sheet of plastic with the same image on it, placing it on top of your previous plastic and background paper. Again, move it around until it is adjacent to the image on the plastic below it. Continue adding sheets of plastic, moving the image on it adjacent to the images on the plastic sheets below. You can continue this until you have as many above the sheet of paper as you would like. Then imagine being able to glue all of these layers of plastic in these positions so you can run the whole stack through a copier. The copier won't see the plastic sheets, but will see all of the images and their positions, so the printed sheet will have all of the images laid out on it in the positions that you placed them.

In the photo processing program you are doing exactly this, but the sheets of plastic are electronic and completely invisible, except for the image that you place on it. Each can be positioned or edited separately with no affect at all on the rest. When printed, they all show up on the paper as you placed them.

Charley

[OCtoolguy]

Thanks Charley, I learned something from this. I never knew that it worked that way. I thought I had to "combine" or "flatten" in order to print them out. Thanks.

 

[John B]

The layer thing is exactly the way I do it Charley. That is main reason I have never upgraded to Windows 10, because I am quite comfortable with "Paintshop Pro" and Windows 10 does not support it
I also make good use of Microsoft Publisher as it is easy to scale and measure patterns etc.

Edited November 28, 2021 by John B

[CharleyL]

Well John B, my main computers are Windows 10, but I also have a Linux Laptop, and a Windows XP Desktop for similar reasons. Not everything plays nice together for me either. So we do what we must, when everything we like to use doesn't work on all OS. I'm a bit surrounded with what I have and use, and I will be adding yet another computer soon, mostly to support my video work in my photo/video studio (another out-of-control hobby, beside woodworking). Terabytes of storage and high speed computing are needed for video work.

For instance, I recently needed to digitize some large movie theater coming attraction posters (remember them?) for a friend. Scanning them in pieces on my 8 X 14" scanner and re-assembling them in Photoshop was just too time consuming, so I hung my tripod and one of my cameras upside down from my studio ceiling, put blue tape on the floor for repeated corner alignment, and made digital photos of all 42 posters in one afternoon. Of course, it took me much of the morning to figure out how I was going to do what was needed (thinking outside the box).

I had built a steel grid from 1 X 1 X 1/4" steel angle on my studio ceiling, so I could hang much of my lighting from it to get as many light stands and power cables off the studio floor as possible. The camera tripod was just attached to this lighting grid using an electrician's beam clamp, something like a C-clamp, with several 1/4-20 threaded holes in it. The base of the mast in the center of the tripod has a 1/4-20 stud sticking out of it, so the beam clamp was attached to the tripod there and then attached the beam clamp to one cross member of the grid.  I then extended the tripod legs up against the ceiling to stabilize the camera, but I also used a Bluetooth remote control for the camera shutter, again to keep the camera stable during the shoot.

The second photo gives you some idea of the main reason for this ceiling lighting grid. What shows in the photo are 4 of the 8 LED Light Panels hanging from this lighting grid that I use for most video work. Each one of these light panels has 480 LEDs in it, for a total of 3,840 LEDs. Can you imagine all of these panels spaced this close together, each on it's own floor stand? There would be no safe place to walk. Each light panel is separately controlled for on-off, brightness, and color via a cell phone App, so again, no wires on the floor.  I have Wiremold power strips on the ceiling running down each side of this 10' wide ceiling light grid with an electric outlet every 6" their full length, so the longest power cable for any light in any location hung on the grid is about 5' from center out to an outlet, and all of the lights and power wiring are above head level on the ceiling. 

Charley 

 

 

 

 

[OCtoolguy]

4 hours ago, CharleyL said:

Well John B, my main computers are Windows 10, but I also have a Linux Laptop, and a Windows XP Desktop for similar reasons. Not everything plays nice together for me either. So we do what we must, when everything we like to use doesn't work on all OS. I'm a bit surrounded with what I have and use, and I will be adding yet another computer soon, mostly to support my video work in my photo/video studio (another out-of-control hobby, beside woodworking). Terabytes of storage and high speed computing are needed for video work.

For instance, I recently needed to digitize some large movie theater coming attraction posters (remember them?) for a friend. Scanning them in pieces on my 8 X 14" scanner and re-assembling them in Photoshop was just too time consuming, so I hung my tripod and one of my cameras upside down from my studio ceiling, put blue tape on the floor for repeated corner alignment, and made digital photos of all 42 posters in one afternoon. Of course, it took me much of the morning to figure out how I was going to do what was needed (thinking outside the box).

I had built a steel grid from 1 X 1 X 1/4" steel angle on my studio ceiling, so I could hang much of my lighting from it to get as many light stands and power cables off the studio floor as possible. The camera tripod was just attached to this lighting grid using an electrician's beam clamp, something like a C-clamp, with several 1/4-20 threaded holes in it. The base of the mast in the center of the tripod has a 1/4-20 stud sticking out of it, so the beam clamp was attached to the tripod there and then attached the beam clamp to one cross member of the grid.  I then extended the tripod legs up against the ceiling to stabilize the camera, but I also used a Bluetooth remote control for the camera shutter, again to keep the camera stable during the shoot.

The second photo gives you some idea of the main reason for this ceiling lighting grid. What shows in the photo are 4 of the 8 LED Light Panels hanging from this lighting grid that I use for most video work. Each one of these light panels has 480 LEDs in it, for a total of 3,840 LEDs. Can you imagine all of these panels spaced this close together, each on it's own floor stand? There would be no safe place to walk. Each light panel is separately controlled for on-off, brightness, and color via a cell phone App, so again, no wires on the floor.  I have Wiremold power strips on the ceiling running down each side of this 10' wide ceiling light grid with an electric outlet every 6" their full length, so the longest power cable for any light in any location hung on the grid is about 5' from center out to an outlet, and all of the lights and power wiring are above head level on the ceiling. 

Charley 

 

 

 

 

That's amazing Charley. How about more pics of your entire setup? I'd love to see it in it's entirety.

 

[timelett]

Thanks I'll try a photo program I have. And fire up my windows xp.

[OCtoolguy]

29 minutes ago, timelett said:

Thanks I'll try a photo program I have. And fire up my windows xp.

Have you given Inkscape a try? I'm still learning it but I have done some text on it and it's fairly easy. Steve Good has a few tutorials on what you are trying to do if I'm not mistaken.

[Wichman]

On 11/25/2021 at 3:55 PM, timelett said:

I use windows 10,and would like to make a small sigh with letters to print out and cut, help please

Do you have a word processor on your computer? I know it sounds silly but anymore you have to either dl and install free or pay for the big boys.

I use Libre Office (free). In the word processor there is a section to format the text, among the options is "outline text" Instead of the typical block text this option takes any font and makes it an outline (so you can follow the outline as a pattern). As for sizing, in Times New Roman font 1 point of font equals  .01 inch in height (25 point font is 1/ 4 inch high, 100 point font is 1 inch high) Not all fonts follow this rule, but TNR does and it's a starting point.

[timelett]

It did occur to me last night to look at the inkscape program,thanks. 

[John B]

14 hours ago, CharleyL said:

Well John B, my main computers are Windows 10, but I also have a Linux Laptop, and a Windows XP Desktop for similar reasons. Not everything plays nice together for me either. So we do what we must, when everything we like to use doesn't work on all OS. I'm a bit surrounded with what I have and use, and I will be adding yet another computer soon, mostly to support my video work in my photo/video studio (another out-of-control hobby, beside woodworking). Terabytes of storage and high speed computing are needed for video work.

That is a mighty set up Charlie.
I like your "Thinking outside the box" thoughts. I can spend hours mulling over an idea and how I will do it and then bang, it's into it. !
It's extremely rewarding when you pull something together from left field.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 29, 2021 by John B

[OCtoolguy]

10 hours ago, John B said:

 

@John B it's funny that you said that. I've been playing an old game on my PC that I had forgotten all about. It's called "Sokoban" and it was from back when DOS was what everything was written in. Anyway, it's now been updated to run on Windows GUI. It's a warehouse man whose job it is to move and load containers into a warehouse. As each level proceeds, the job gets harder and harder and becomes a matter of how to move the containers, in what order and where/how to stack them in the warehouse. So, with what you said about taking hours to think through a problem prior to making the first move, it is very much the same thing in this game. I've had to learn to "think outside the box" and had to start over many times on each level. If you are interested, do a search for Sokoban free download. It's really addictive.

 

Edited November 29, 2021 by OCtoolguy

[CharleyL]

On 11/28/2021 at 6:21 PM, OCtoolguy said:

That's amazing Charley. How about more pics of your entire setup? I'd love to see it in it's entirety.

 

It's difficult to get everything in just a few photos, and It's not really related to scroll sawing (It's a photo/video studio), but I have taken quite a few cell phone quality photos in different directions in here. Rather than post them publicly here on a woodworking forum, please PM your email address and I'll send some to you. I'm considering making a video, but haven't done this yet.

Attached is a photo of my assistant, taken in my photo studio last year. Linda has been a great help when getting the lights adjusted. Her sisters help occasionally too.

Charley

 

 

 

 

Edited November 30, 2021 by CharleyL

[CharleyL]

On 11/28/2021 at 8:05 PM, OCtoolguy said:

Have you given Inkscape a try? I'm still learning it but I have done some text on it and it's fairly easy. Steve Good has a few tutorials on what you are trying to do if I'm not mistaken.

I'm good with Photoshop and now learning Affinity Pro. Inkscape works considerably different, and I don't book learn well, so I'm sticking with what I know for now. I have over 20 years of Photoshop experience. Affinity was bought a year ago when I had a bit of a "falling out" with Adobe. It seems more capable of some photo editing than Photoshop, if I can just get my head wrapped around it. Only $50 and no monthly rent for it either.

Charley

[OCtoolguy]

6 hours ago, CharleyL said:

It's difficult to get everything in just a few photos, and It's not really related to scroll sawing (It's a photo/video studio), but I have taken quite a few cell phone quality photos in different directions in here. Rather than post them publicly here on a woodworking forum, please PM your email address and I'll send some to you. I'm considering making a video, but haven't done this yet.

Attached is a photo of my assistant, taken in my photo studio last year. Linda has been a great help when getting the lights adjusted. Her sisters help occasionally too.

Charley

 

 

 

 

Have you given any thought to using Ken?

 

[CharleyL]

In case you haven't figured out why Linda looks so perfect, she's a mannequin. I posted the photo of her to see if anyone realized what she was. Barbie? Well, sort of. Ken? Not likely. I only need one human figure to adjust my lights and camera settings. I could have bought either, but like the look of a female better, even if she's plastic. 

I bought Linda from Amazon after I had talked my wife into posing for me while I adjusted the lights and that led to failure. It lasted about 10 minutes and she asked how long it would take? I said, "about an hour", and she got up an left and wouldn't come back. Most other portrait photographers have a mannequin head, or whole body to practice and adjust their lights with, so when my wife wouldn't come back to help, I bought the cheapest full body mannequin that Amazon offered. Her clothes came from the local thrift stores and her hair from the Halloween Section of Walmart. All for less than $100. At first my wife wasn't happy with me buying Linda, but that changed quickly when she realized that I didn't need and wouldn't be asking her to pose for me any more because Linda, the mannequin, would do it for me.

My wife seems to have fully accepted Linda now, because every once in a while, she comes home with another article of clothing "for Linda". She even had one of our neighbors helping her find things for "Linda". But this has caused problems, because Linda's wardrobe is beginning to fill my photo equipment storage closet. I only needed one outfit so she would look decent, but Linda is building a wardrobe of clothing and accessories without even going shopping. Do all women do this? 

So Linda has become a piece of my photography hardware, just like my lights and cameras, and you wanted to see my studio and equipment, so I started by posting Linda for you all to see.  I mostly wanted to see how many of you thought she was real. Now, come on guys. Do you really think a woman this young and pretty is going to want anything to do with this 79 year old relic? 

Charley

 

[OCtoolguy]

I love it Charley!