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Cutting ornaments with Baltic Birch


jamieline

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I have not cut may ornaments but had a request for several this year. When peeling the pattern off I often loose some of the top layer of the 1/8" baltic birch plywood. Have cut a ton of items with 1/4" with out issues. Seems with the more detail I loose some of the top layer.

I use shelf paper to glue the patterns too. Usually have no issues removing the paper.

Anyway to prevent?

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Could be a couple things going on.. 

Since you're using shelf liner most times that stuff comes off pretty good so I doubt its because that it sticking too good.

I have had cases where I had a dull drill bit and I was drilling too fast for the drill bit to keep up with removing the chips.. this punctures the back side of the ornament and while it may not look punctured after drilling.. but it loosens it up in the last layer of the ply.. then when you cut it loosens and chips fall out creating somewhat what you are talking about but on the back side usually.. but can also happen on the front too if you're really pushing the drill through to hard.

Also pre-sanding the blanks helps a lot.. especially if the plywood is older and has been in some higher humidity at some point.. the high humidity sort of loosens the fibers of the wood.. I find sanding first helps a lot with this..

 

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Back when I used to saw, I sandwiched anything delicate between 2 layers of luan. Luan is cheap insurance and it will blow your mind the tiny things you can make.  When assembling "the sandwich", always have the face of the luan grain run opposite the part of your "good" piece.

jerry

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From what I understand box store "Birch" isn't actually Baltic Birch. I've used box store Birch but usually I lose pieces on the bottom and not the top. I use Duck shelf liner and haven't had any problems with it pulling chips of the top. I have also used spray adhesive on the pattern and applied it directly to the wood. A little heat from a heat gun or hair dryer will loosen the adhesive and it will almost peel itself off. You may need to use a little mineral spirits to remove any residual adhesive from the project. I haven't tried but I also understand you can apply mineral spirits directly to the pattern when you're ready to remove it and it will soak through and loosen the adhesive where the pattern can easily be removed. Good luck.

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I don't normally have problems with the top veneer layer. I use blue painters tape . You can also apply the pattern directly to the wood. When your done cutting just wipe it down with mineral spirits and the pattern will lift off cleanly. You do have to make sure you clean the surface good doing it this way but honestly it is that much work to do.

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Others have said it but, IMHO, it is the quality of the ply you are using, no mater how you attach your pattern or the condition of the drill bit.

The finish side vaneer on good quality BB ply will not fall apart, assuming you are using the proper size sharp blade.  I most often use spiral blades that produce a generaly rougher cut and still get very good small details in the BB Ply I use.  Any loss of detail I may get is due to my poor cutting technique and not the wood.

However, I do go one step further and purchase 5/32"x12"x19" solid core progect panels from HD.  Slightly more expensive but they are intended for cricut/laser cutting and the quality of the vaneer is even better than the good quality BB ply that is available. 

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On 12/1/2021 at 12:40 AM, WayneMahler said:

I don't normally have problems with the top veneer layer. I use blue painters tape . You can also apply the pattern directly to the wood. When your done cutting just wipe it down with mineral spirits and the pattern will lift off cleanly. You do have to make sure you clean the surface good doing it this way but honestly it is that much work to do.

I often do this as well seldom have a problem

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