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Dremel 285 and plunge router


RabidAlien

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Dunno why I didn't do this sooner....I have a Dremel 285, nothing fancy, probably paid $100 at Sears for it 20 years ago.  I picked up a plunge router and some router bits a year or two ago, thinking I was going to route edges onto picture frames with it, only to find out that the bits are, obviously, scaled for a Dremel and I get faster round-overs by just sanding the edges.  The Dremel sat, still attached to the plunge adapter, for a long time.  Until I ran into a problem with my desktop Porter Cable drill press.  First problem was, the return spring broke (its the one that raises the chuck after you drill the hole, kinda like a tape measure retracts) and the replacement was out of stock or no longer available, with no alternate parts available anywhere....finding a "spare parts" drill press is almost as much as buying a new one, so I've just been manually holding the chuck up.  Which isn't making my arms very happy.  Second problem, the distance between the vertical arm of the drill press and the drill bit is significantly low, making it hard to get pilot holes into internal cuts on larger patterns. 

 

Then my eye fell upon the Dremel again (more likely, I was moving something around and uncovered it... :)).  On to Google!!!  Yep, sure enough, there's a drill-bit chuck that fits most standard models of Dremels, and looked, based on the photos, to close enough to hold drill bits down to #64 or smaller.  Heck, a two-pack on Amazon was only $13 (more, if your shopping cart is like mine and tends to attract books.  Completely by accident.  Woops.).  So.....they arrived Monday, fit like a charm, and I'll be d*mned if they don't drop a pilot hole straight down into any pattern you care to hit with em!!!!  I had a "scrap" tabletop, one of the first woodworking projects I tried,, that used to sit on top of an antique Singer sewing machine base that was replaced with a better version, but which I was loathe to get rid of for some reason.  Been using that to keep from drilling random pilot holes into my workbench.  :)  

 

I may end up unplugging my drill press and finding a place to stash it and just use the Dremel for everything that needs a small pilot hole.

 

Here's what I got (and I get no kickbacks from Amazon for posting these.  Unfortunately.)

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=IK7YEGWRUU4X&keywords=dremel+plunge+router+attachment&qid=1644353800&sprefix=dremel+plunge+%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-2

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092RY3TMQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

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2 hours ago, RabidAlien said:

Dunno why I didn't do this sooner....I have a Dremel 285, nothing fancy, probably paid $100 at Sears for it 20 years ago.  I picked up a plunge router and some router bits a year or two ago, thinking I was going to route edges onto picture frames with it, only to find out that the bits are, obviously, scaled for a Dremel and I get faster round-overs by just sanding the edges.  The Dremel sat, still attached to the plunge adapter, for a long time.  Until I ran into a problem with my desktop Porter Cable drill press.  First problem was, the return spring broke (its the one that raises the chuck after you drill the hole, kinda like a tape measure retracts) and the replacement was out of stock or no longer available, with no alternate parts available anywhere....finding a "spare parts" drill press is almost as much as buying a new one, so I've just been manually holding the chuck up.  Which isn't making my arms very happy.  Second problem, the distance between the vertical arm of the drill press and the drill bit is significantly low, making it hard to get pilot holes into internal cuts on larger patterns. 

 

Then my eye fell upon the Dremel again (more likely, I was moving something around and uncovered it... :)).  On to Google!!!  Yep, sure enough, there's a drill-bit chuck that fits most standard models of Dremels, and looked, based on the photos, to close enough to hold drill bits down to #64 or smaller.  Heck, a two-pack on Amazon was only $13 (more, if your shopping cart is like mine and tends to attract books.  Completely by accident.  Woops.).  So.....they arrived Monday, fit like a charm, and I'll be d*mned if they don't drop a pilot hole straight down into any pattern you care to hit with em!!!!  I had a "scrap" tabletop, one of the first woodworking projects I tried,, that used to sit on top of an antique Singer sewing machine base that was replaced with a better version, but which I was loathe to get rid of for some reason.  Been using that to keep from drilling random pilot holes into my workbench.  :)  

 

I may end up unplugging my drill press and finding a place to stash it and just use the Dremel for everything that needs a small pilot hole.

 

Here's what I got (and I get no kickbacks from Amazon for posting these.  Unfortunately.)

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=IK7YEGWRUU4X&keywords=dremel+plunge+router+attachment&qid=1644353800&sprefix=dremel+plunge+%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-2

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092RY3TMQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

To ask the obvious, have you checked eReplacementparts.com? I'd be surprised if they can't supply the part you need. They also respond to questions regarding other brand names that were the same as your P-C dp.

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Gotta be careful if you use that Dremel set up with thick wood.. I have basically the same set up but since I'm almost always stack cutting or cutting  1/2 - 3/4 inch material the router has to be at a pretty good speed to have enough power.. then with the speed the drill bits burn up fast.. Not to mention that with some time the router base uprights will get worn and sloppy and if you're not careful going even pressure on each of the router handles you'll be drilling holes on an angle.. 

Good set up for the larger projects in thin stock.. like portrait cutting where the actual drill press won't reach the center though.. 

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I used the dremel plunge set up to drill for a very long time.  It can wiggle. Resulting in problems when drilling for stack cutting.  It also is figgity when changing the bit. Collet size, holding the tiny red button while turning the wrench and also holding the drill bit.
 I bought the Seyco Scrollers drill. It ain’t cheap. I am very happy with it. No regrets. 

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34 minutes ago, Roberta Moreton said:

I used the dremel plunge set up to drill for a very long time.  It can wiggle. Resulting in problems when drilling for stack cutting.  It also is figgity when changing the bit. Collet size, holding the tiny red button while turning the wrench and also holding the drill bit.
 I bought the Seyco Scrollers drill. It ain’t cheap. I am very happy with it. No regrets. 

Just curious how does it do for power in thicker stock? I've been eyeing that seyco drill for a few years and have a couple pennies saved up for a new toy, LOL..

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I've got the 4300 Dremel with plunge router attachment and it seems to work for me. It has plenty of power although I'm usually only drilling through one or two layers of 1/4 material. The chuck on my drill press wouldn't clamp down small enough to hold the smaller bits I needed. For a while I would wrap a small wire around the smaller bits so the chuck would clamp and hold. If you do this, you almost always have to re-wrap the bit with wire each time otherwise it will not clamp straight and tighten off-center. Anyway, I got the Dremel plunge router attachment and it has worked well for me. You do have to press down on the handles evenly as Kevin said. I haven't tried more than 2 layers of 1/4 inch material. Some of the holes I've drilled didn't require more than starting the saw with the blade inserted through the pilot hole just to knock off some of the edges to make the cut (super small holes). I've been working on some of Jim Blume's patterns if that gives you any idea of the number of holes and their size.

The Dremel plunge router was an alternative to the Seyco Scroller's Drill which I hope to own one day in the future. I'm thinking it will be more accurate when depressing the head to drill the hole. Maybe someone that has the Seyco drill can comment on its operation.

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The thing I don't like about the Seyco is if the motor goes bad it appears to me you through it out and buy another one.. I'm just worried at my level of scrolling and primarily drilling through thicker hardwood I might be over working that little thing... The dremel I have is not a actual dremel it's a WEN knock off that was really cheap.. Maybe why it's so under powered? I mean it does do the job but like I said.. You got to run the speed up pretty high to get the torque to drill through 3/4" hardwood.. then it smoking / burning through rather than drilling. LOL

The dremel / WEN motor has held up good for me but the plastic plunge part has gotten really sloppy and it got to a point where it's quite difficult to drill straight holes.. so i no longer use it other than on super large projects that my drill press can't get to the center.

I may try a higher end dremel.. If it works with more torque then I'll spurge and buy a "quality metal" plunge base.. Not cheap but these things you could run over with the car and have it still be more accurate than the plastic garbage.. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/routers/stewmac-plunge-router-base/ 

 

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1 minute ago, kmmcrafts said:

The thing I don't like about the Seyco is if the motor goes bad it appears to me you through it out and buy another one.. I'm just worried at my level of scrolling and primarily drilling through thicker hardwood I might be over working that little thing... The dremel I have is not a actual dremel it's a WEN knock off that was really cheap.. Maybe why it's so under powered? I mean it does do the job but like I said.. You got to run the speed up pretty high to get the torque to drill through 3/4" hardwood.. then it smoking / burning through rather than drilling. LOL

The dremel / WEN motor has held up good for me but the plastic plunge part has gotten really sloppy and it got to a point where it's quite difficult to drill straight holes.. so i no longer use it other than on super large projects that my drill press can't get to the center.

I may try a higher end dremel.. If it works with more torque then I'll spurge and buy a "quality metal" plunge base.. Not cheap but these things you could run over with the car and have it still be more accurate than the plastic garbage.. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/routers/stewmac-plunge-router-base/ 

 

Just thinkin' out loud, but smoke...heat....friction.....plastic doesn't, traditionally, play well with these things.  Wonder if the heat from the drilling has softened or loosened the plastic up a bit?

I knwo when drilling metal or plexiglass, you need to keep the site lubricated to help with heat buildup.  Would a drop of BLO or something work in your case, or would that muck up the pattern too much?

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Probably muck up the pattern.. also might light a fire easier, LOL.. Don't know, I've read where others say their dremel has plenty of power.. so it maybe just my elcheapo WEN knock off dremel is too under powered. There is not too many larger projects these days that I really need to use it so not sure if it's worth investing into one of these nicer set-ups.. I don't really use a dremel so buying a higher end more $$ motor and that better made plunge set up get's a lot of money invested into it.. that's half way there to a much better bigger real drill press that could be used for a lot more things.. 

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I have a Dremel mounted in the drill press stand.  I use it for most entry hole drilling where a very small numbered bit is required.  Lucky for me, my full size drill press chuck will handle those small bits, but it's convenient to have the Dremel right next to me, when I'm sawing.  

Now the Dremel stand is limited in its depth between the bit and the post, but there is a way to work around that.  It's a little awkward, but it does work.  Rotate the Dremel 180 degrees, so that the base is directly behind the drill, instead of underneath it.  This allows you to drill anyplace on the blank, without being limited by the distance between the bit and the post.  The awkward part is that you need to hold onto the thing to keep it from tipping over.  One could put some weight on the base to help balance it, but just be aware that it may be a little clumsy to operate, at least until you get the hang of it.  I've done it a few times and it really isn't hard, just takes a little coordination.  

I'm not saying this is better than the Seyco or even the Dremel plunge router base, but if you already have a drill press stand, it is an alternative to buying something else.

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3 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

I have a Dremel mounted in the drill press stand.  I use it for most entry hole drilling where a very small numbered bit is required.  Lucky for me, my full size drill press chuck will handle those small bits, but it's convenient to have the Dremel right next to me, when I'm sawing.  

Now the Dremel stand is limited in its depth between the bit and the post, but there is a way to work around that.  It's a little awkward, but it does work.  Rotate the Dremel 180 degrees, so that the base is directly behind the drill, instead of underneath it.  This allows you to drill anyplace on the blank, without being limited by the distance between the bit and the post.  The awkward part is that you need to hold onto the thing to keep it from tipping over.  One could put some weight on the base to help balance it, but just be aware that it may be a little clumsy to operate, at least until you get the hang of it.  I've done it a few times and it really isn't hard, just takes a little coordination.  

I'm not saying this is better than the Seyco or even the Dremel plunge router base, but if you already have a drill press stand, it is an alternative to buying something else.

I seen where someone mounted this upside down overhead of a workbench.. then it wasn't awkward to try to hold it etc.. and infinite throat capacity.. 

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I have 4 dremel one is ;on the plunge router 2 are variable speed and 2 are single speed I have never used it on anything thicker than 3 1/4 baltic ply and it works real well I oly use it when my 10 in. drill press wont reach eht holes especially on fret work. I have it set right by the saw ddthis works for me.

IKE

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For your drill press spring, when they break, it's usually at the right angle bend at the end. I fixed an old drill press spring by heating just the tip of the remaining spring to red and then let it cool slowly. This removes the spring tension and makes this area soft and bendable, so it can be shaped and bent. I then just made the end back into the needed shape and put it back into the drill press. It was working fine many years later when I gave the drill press away.

Charley

 

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some one mentioned the 3 jaw chuck for the Dremel. I have one and I decided to try it in the  plung router. I had to take it off the dremel so it would work  I did this and mounted it in the router and It wouldn't close ddd on a drillof any size. This is an older plung router and all blut I don't thik they changed it they stilllook the same. Buyer be ware.\IKE

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1 hour ago, CharleyL said:

For your drill press spring, when they break, it's usually at the right angle bend at the end. I fixed an old drill press spring by heating just the tip of the remaining spring to red and then let it cool slowly. This removes the spring tension and makes this area soft and bendable, so it can be shaped and bent. I then just made the end back into the needed shape and put it back into the drill press. It was working fine many years later when I gave the drill press away.

Charley

 

I tried bending it, but it looked like it snapped off a little ways away from where it attached to the center post.  I may give that another go, I probably didn't heat it up enough at the time.

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4 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I seen where someone mounted this upside down overhead of a workbench.. then it wasn't awkward to try to hold it etc.. and infinite throat capacity.. 

That was an idea that Frank came up with. It seems to make sense. 

Also, regarding the plunge base, some time back this same discussion was going on and Rockytime talked about a high-end router base meant for guitar makers. Price at around $100 it was out of the realm of most of us but he bought one, made a couple of modifications to it and loved it. Very accurate and no slop. Made to last forever. I sure miss him.

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3 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

That was an idea that Frank came up with. It seems to make sense. 

Also, regarding the plunge base, some time back this same discussion was going on and Rockytime talked about a high-end router base meant for guitar makers. Price at around $100 it was out of the realm of most of us but he bought one, made a couple of modifications to it and loved it. Very accurate and no slop. Made to last forever. I sure miss him.

Yeah that's the dremel attachment thing I linked above that Les used.. though I think he bought the cheaper fixed base router base instead of the plunge router one that I linked to above.. I bookmarked that topic because I like that metal plunge base.. Maybe should buy it incase they quite making them.. Though I'm sure I could make one fairly easy as well.. Time isn't on my side for puttering around like that though at least at the moment.. 

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2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah that's the dremel attachment thing I linked above that Les used.. though I think he bought the cheaper fixed base router base instead of the plunge router one that I linked to above.. I bookmarked that topic because I like that metal plunge base.. Maybe should buy it incase they quite making them.. Though I'm sure I could make one fairly easy as well.. Time isn't on my side for puttering around like that though at least at the moment.. 

Yes, that's the one. He did buy the plunge base but I remember that he changed out the springs. I don't recall him spending that much though. I don't think his had the light or blower port either. Looks like they've added a couple of things and bumped the price. Very well made though.

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  • 11 months later...

Haven't read all the comments.  This is what I bought.  It also came with a base that will tilt for angled holes.  I haven't used the angle one.  They were available on a 2 for 1 deal and ended up being about the same cost as the Dremel brand plunge router base.   https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/routers/stewmac-plunge-router-base/

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On 1/22/2023 at 9:23 AM, barb.j.enders said:

Haven't read all the comments.  This is what I bought.  It also came with a base that will tilt for angled holes.  I haven't used the angle one.  They were available on a 2 for 1 deal and ended up being about the same cost as the Dremel brand plunge router base.   https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/routers/stewmac-plunge-router-base/

Can I adopt you to be my favorite rich aunt? 😂 It should hold up forever at that price though. Nice looking kit.

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