Home Depot Project Panels

[kmmcrafts]

FrankEV mentioned using these panels some time ago.. I think I used then several years ago but can't remember if that was exactly what I used.. and at that time BBply was easier and cheaper anyway. I don't remember the quality or lack of anyway, I ordered some last week.. scheduled to be delivered today I think so maybe I can give it a try later this week on a portrait type project I'm making for my friend of his tractor. 

[Dave Monk]

Anxious to see how they work out. 

[kmmcrafts]

Well the panels arrived and my first impression is they look like decent quality. The laminate appears thicker than standard ply that I had been using but thinner than bbply. 
 

Hopefully the photo of the edges can show good enough. The top piece is 3mm bbply to show you the comparison. These are the maple panels, they also have some other species. 
 

My new planer sure showed up fast. I ordered it yesterday afternoon. Hopefully they send out the planer stand too. Was surprised to see the planer today. 

[rjweb]

Keep us posted on the wood, also what planner did you buy, RJ 

[kmmcrafts]

10 minutes ago, rjweb said:

Keep us posted on the wood, also what planner did you buy, RJ 

I'll update in a few weeks on the project panels after I've had a chance to cut on some of them.. These are the panels I bought. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-5-32-in-x-1-ft-x-1-ft-7-in-PureBond-Maple-Plywood-Project-Panel-10-Pack-4940/312284408

 

This is the planer I bought... https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-13-in-Heavy-Duty-2-Speed-Thickness-Planer-with-Knives-and-Tables-and-Planer-Stand-DW735XW7350/308557507

Edited March 16, 2022 by kmmcrafts

[Fred Buehler]

thanks for the material update.

The planer is awesome.

[Dan]

I have that planer but didn't get the stand. I love the planer. Dust collection is a breezy (literally) as it has an impeller that will send the chips across the yard. I bought a dust collection bag and some ducts and just hang it off the side. No dust collector needed. 

[FrankEV]

I think you will like cutting those panels.   I almost use the Maple exclusively and/ or Walnut when a dark contrast is needed.

These panels cut fairly clean with both regular and spiral blades.

Do sand the panels well to 600 grit before applying the pattern mounting material to prevent grain tear out when removing.

When the maple was out of stock for a while I  ordered Birch.  Still nice but I  like the looks of the maple much  better.  OK for painted work.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, FrankEV said:

I think you will like cutting those panels.   I almost use the Maple exclusively and/ or Walnut when a dark contrast is needed.

These panels cut fairly clean with both regular and spiral blades.

Do sand the panels well to 600 grit before applying the pattern mounting material to prevent grain tear out when removing.

When the maple was out of stock for a while I  ordered Birch.  Still nice but I  like the looks of the maple much  better.  OK for painted work.

Yeah the Maple looks so much better than Birch, I've never liked the bland look of Baltic Birch.. but always used it because there was never anything else in thin stock.

[barb.j.enders]

That looks similar to the panels I purchased from KJP Hardwoods. They are easy cutting.  What I don't like is how the edges finish. I feel that it can't be left as an open edge but needs a frame or trim around.  https://kjpselecthardwoods.com/collections/craft-mdf-plywood/products/maplecraftplywood

[FrankEV]

6 hours ago, barb.j.enders said:

That looks similar to the panels I purchased from KJP Hardwoods. They are easy cutting.  What I don't like is how the edges finish. I feel that it can't be left as an open edge but needs a frame or trim around.  https://kjpselecthardwoods.com/collections/craft-mdf-plywood/products/maplecraftplywood

Not quite the same.  These are solid core 5/32"  or 1/4" thick ply, not vaneered mdf.  Only one size:12" x 19.5" 

However, I do agree that the edges do not finish well and panels should be framed. IMHO, all plywood needs to be framed or trimmed.

[kmmcrafts]

My first project cut from one of these panels. Seems to cut very similar to BBply I think.. maybe slightly easier cutting but not a whole lot different. Now I just need to figure out how I want to go about making a frame.. never done that before so this will be interesting, LOL

[TAIrving]

I used some of the HD project panels a couple of years ago and liked them.  I found them to be of solid construction with no voids.  I like them better than BBply because they are available with a choice of outer layer including maple, walnut, mahogany, cherry, etc.  You can even get them with birch if you must.  I don't care for birch as an outer layer because it is difficult to make a nice finish.  

[FrankEV]

20 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

My first project cut from one of these panels. Seems to cut very similar to BBply I think.. maybe slightly easier cutting but not a whole lot different. Now I just need to figure out how I want to go about making a frame.. never done that before so this will be interesting, LOL

I'll offer a few of my ways of making frames:

1.  You need a table saw with a good blade.

2.  Ues 3/4 thk material.  I like Poplar, but any wood, even Pine will work.

3.  I buy 8" or 12" wide boards and rip my frame making sticks 1 3/4" wide.  Buying wide boards is more enconomical per frame and less waste then narrower material.  Six foot boards will make most frames you will make for 11 or 12" wide frames.

4. I also use my table saw to create the 1/4"wide x 1/2" deep rabbet.  Make some test pieces untill you get the precise dims.  Keep the final test pece as a jig to future saw set ups.  I cut the 1/2" deep cut first and then the 1/4". (you can use a Router with a Rabbeting bit, but I found the table saw does the job easier for me.  Cut the Rabbet before you cut your miters.

5. Your frame is only as good as your corner miters.  Be as precise as possible.  If you decide to make many frames, a miter sled is very helpful. 

6.  Remember, the frame rails are 3 1/2" plus about an 1/8" longer than your panel. And your miter points are at the vertical face of the 1/2" deep rabbet. Set up stop blocks so the length is repeatable to insure a square frame.

7.  Use a strap type clamp to get even pressure during the glue up.  I use Titebond glue.  After applying the glue I dust the glue joint with some sawdust from the same wood to insure any minor gap is filled. And I use blue tape to protect the frame face from glue squeeze out.  I also reinforce the joint with framing "V" nails available from Hobby Lobby.

8. I don't think I need to discuss finishing...just do a good job of sanding no matter what finish you use.

9. I use one drive in small sawtooth hanger on the top rail and framing points to hold the panel into the frame. (Glasier points work as well.)

BTW, nice cutting on the Tractor.

  

Edited March 18, 2022 by FrankEV

[OCtoolguy]

Frank, you mentioned dusting the joint with sawdust to fill any gaps. Along that same line, I picked up a hint while watching the old Japanese guy I've been following on YOutube. He adds salt to his glue up to keep the wood from "sliding" on the glue. I thought that looked like something that would be helpful to pass along.

 

[kmmcrafts]

12 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

Frank, you mentioned dusting the joint with sawdust to fill any gaps. Along that same line, I picked up a hint while watching the old Japanese guy I've been following on YOutube. He adds salt to his glue up to keep the wood from "sliding" on the glue. I thought that looked like something that would be helpful to pass along.

 

Wonder if the salt makes the glue taste better too.. 

[OCtoolguy]

2 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Wonder if the salt makes the glue taste better too.. 

Another good reason to keep a cold beer close.

 

[FrankEV]

3 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

Frank, you mentioned dusting the joint with sawdust to fill any gaps. Along that same line, I picked up a hint while watching the old Japanese guy I've been following on YOutube. He adds salt to his glue up to keep the wood from "sliding" on the glue. I thought that looked like something that would be helpful to pass along.

 

Sounds like a reasoble idea. I don't usually have a problem with the joint slipping using the Seedy Frame Clamp.  However, upon initial tightening, I find I usually have to adjust the corner where the clamp adjusting screw is.  The other three square up on there own.

[kmmcrafts]

18 hours ago, FrankEV said:

I'll offer a few of my ways of making frames:

1.  You need a table saw with a good blade.

2.  Ues 3/4 thk material.  I like Poplar, but any wood, even Pine will work.

3.  I buy 8" or 12" wide boards and rip my frame making sticks 1 3/4" wide.  Buying wide boards is more enconomical per frame and less waste then narrower material.  Six foot boards will make most frames you will make for 11 or 12" wide frames.

4. I also use my table saw to create the 1/4"wide x 1/2" deep rabbet.  Make some test pieces untill you get the precise dims.  Keep the final test pece as a jig to future saw set ups.  I cut the 1/2" deep cut first and then the 1/4". (you can use a Router with a Rabbeting bit, but I found the table saw does the job easier for me.  Cut the Rabbet before you cut your miters.

5. Your frame is only as good as your corner miters.  Be as precise as possible.  If you decide to make many frames, a miter sled is very helpful. 

6.  Remember, the frame rails are 3 1/2" plus about an 1/8" longer than your panel. And your miter points are at the vertical face of the 1/2" deep rabbet. Set up stop blocks so the length is repeatable to insure a square frame.

7.  Use a strap type clamp to get even pressure during the glue up.  I use Titebond glue.  After applying the glue I dust the glue joint with some sawdust from the same wood to insure any minor gap is filled. And I use blue tape to protect the frame face from glue squeeze out.  I also reinforce the joint with framing "V" nails available from Hobby Lobby.

8. I don't think I need to discuss finishing...just do a good job of sanding no matter what finish you use.

9. I use one drive in small sawtooth hanger on the top rail and framing points to hold the panel into the frame. (Glasier points work as well.)

BTW, nice cutting on the Tractor.

  

Thank you for your wonderful process of making frames.. Now I have a good excuse to buy a new table saw,  . My table saw motor is very weak as about 4-5 years ago a bearing locked up in the gearbox and smoke rolled out the motor. I took it apart and replaced the bearing but ever since then the motor doesn't have power enough to cut anything but my thin plywood down to size. That's mostly what I used it for anyway so I've just put up with it being that way. I've put money aside for a new one but this one just hasn't given out for what I needed it for. 

I wonder how well it'd work to glue up a panel and cut a frame out with my CNC router. Might look weird because the wood grain would be all the same direction. I could carve the rabbit out and then make the profile cut of the frame, LOL.  

[barb.j.enders]

14 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

Frank, you mentioned dusting the joint with sawdust to fill any gaps. Along that same line, I picked up a hint while watching the old Japanese guy I've been following on YOutube. He adds salt to his glue up to keep the wood from "sliding" on the glue. I thought that looked like something that would be helpful to pass along.

 

Steve Good has also mentioned using salt, just a few grains, for glue ups.

[FrankEV]

1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

Thank you for your wonderful process of making frames.. Now I have a good excuse to buy a new table saw,  . My table saw motor is very weak as about 4-5 years ago a bearing locked up in the gearbox and smoke rolled out the motor. I took it apart and replaced the bearing but ever since then the motor doesn't have power enough to cut anything but my thin plywood down to size. That's mostly what I used it for anyway so I've just put up with it being that way. I've put money aside for a new one but this one just hasn't given out for what I needed it for. 

I wonder how well it'd work to glue up a panel and cut a frame out with my CNC router. Might look weird because the wood grain would be all the same direction. I could carve the rabbit out and then make the profile cut of the frame, LOL.  

A good table saw with a good quality brand thin kerf min 8o tooth carbide blade is the best tool you can have in your shop.  I'd recommend buying the best one you can afford and don't skimp on the quality of the blade.

Cutting a frame out of a panel is a waste of good wood!  I've seen it done and it just does not look correct.

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, FrankEV said:

A good table saw with a good quality brand thin kerf min 8o tooth carbide blade is the best tool you can have in your shop.  I'd recommend buying the best one you can afford and don't skimp on the quality of the blade.

Cutting a frame out of a panel is a waste of good wood!  I've seen it done and it just does not look correct.

What blade do you recommend Frank? I'm thinking about a Diablo 80 tooth.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, FrankEV said:

A good table saw with a good quality brand thin kerf min 8o tooth carbide blade is the best tool you can have in your shop.  I'd recommend buying the best one you can afford and don't skimp on the quality of the blade.

Cutting a frame out of a panel is a waste of good wood!  I've seen it done and it just does not look correct.

What's your thoughts on this table saw? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-10-in-Job-Site-Table-Saw-with-Rolling-Stand-DWE7491RS/204512007

This is the one I've had my eye on for a long time.. Is there something better for the money? I have the space and money for larger unit however I want something somewhat portable and easy to move around. I quite often condense my shop to make auto repairs etc.. especially now that I just bought another project car to build.. Too many hobbies, LOL 

While the money and space is there.. doesn't mean I want to use it on a table saw that mostly only use it for cutting down large sheets of plywood down to scrollable sizes. I don't see myself making a ton of portrait type projects (frames) as they're harder to sell than a functional piece like a clock, puzzle, or low cost Christmas ornaments.. as I've been there done that with portrait stuff.. but mostly bought custom frames from Hobby Lobby and mostly had customers ask for unframed anyway.. I only wanted to make this frame for my friend just so I could say I made the frame too.. in other words I'm not planning to go into frame making. I would however use the table saw to make cutting boards again.. they're good sellers too.  but I don't need a huge $1000 table saw for cutting boards either, LOL

[kmmcrafts]

2 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

What blade do you recommend Frank? I'm thinking about a Diablo 80 tooth.

That's what I use on my table saw.. also use the same brand for my miter saw but I think maybe that one is a 60 tooth.. can't remember now but it does a wonderful nice clean cut.. 

[FrankEV]

31 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

What's your thoughts on this table saw? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-10-in-Job-Site-Table-Saw-with-Rolling-Stand-DWE7491RS/204512007

That is the one I have for my small shop.  I works great for a portable contractor type saw.  Also the price is good. I like the fact that the rip fence is built in and is very accurate.(*)   When I had my big shop in NC, I had a big professional saw with outfeed tables and a very accurate digital set rip fence. Not needed for most of us, but sometimes I wish I stll had it 

Edit:  (*)  Accurate as to square.  Don't trust the measuring tape on the saw, especially when using a thin kerf blade.  Always measure to the tooth of the blade to insure  an accurate measurement.

Edited March 19, 2022 by FrankEV