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Posted
1 hour ago, Rolf said:

I created this Beveled inlay guidelines chart for myself.

I would still do a test cut 

 

 

Inlay angle guide.jpg

Thanks Rolf. That will save a lot of time and create a great start point. Experimentation still a necessity but this will save headaches.

Posted

Another thing to consider when cutting inlays is the direction in which you cut. Because of the angle of the cut, a very sharp (pointed) turn can try and force the blade to cut across itself. I don't think I am explaining this very well, but if you set the blade at an angle and try and cut a sharp point in one direction, then the other, you will see what I mean.

Posted
8 hours ago, Rolf said:

Take your time when cutting inlays and make sure not to push sideways. 

These were 1/4 into 1/4 inch material. Olson 2/0 R 28 TPI

 

 

Copy of DSCN2447.JPG

DSCN2214.JPG

Very nice Rolf.
I have a dozen of each of these type of hinges, circular and rectangle. Have had them in a box for years, just never got around to using them.

 

Posted
13 hours ago, timelett said:

Beautiful work is this a pattern? 

The designs were something I created from clipart.  The box designs are John A. Nelson with some modifications by me.

I bought the hinges from https://www.nationalartcraft.com/product-index.asp  I don't think the rectangular ones are available any more.

I stopped making them as they wasted a lot of wood.  Having said that, I still have some of the hinges and should use them up. 

This was my collection. 

s-l500.jpg

Copy of DSCN2452.JPG

Posted (edited)

This is an interesting question and discussion.  Rolf's graph is helpful.  I do have a question about the graph.  I think the width of the kerf is the important variable rather than the blade thickness. I have tried measuring the kerf and found it always to be a bit more than the blade.

I measured kerf by taking a piece of wood about 2" long, cutting in two and remeasuring  it.  

For anyone with a calculator----

I think that the angle equals the inverse sin of the kerf divided by board thickness.

Edited by Sycamore67
Posted (edited)
On 4/2/2022 at 10:23 AM, Sycamore67 said:

This is an interesting question and discussion.  Rolf's graph is helpful.  I do have a question about the graph.  I think the width of the kerf is the important variable rather than the blade thickness. I have tried measuring the kerf and found it always to be a bit more than the blade.

I measured kerf by taking a piece of wood about 2" long, cutting in two and remeasuring  it.  

For anyone with a calculator----

I think that the angle equals the inverse sin of the kerf divided by board thickness.

Thanks for that info. Unfortunately, 63 years have passed since the last time I used that sort of math so I'll just have to take your word for it. Lol.

 

nostalgic-old-pictures-5-5fe0c25623bd7__700.jpg

Edited by OCtoolguy
Posted
20 hours ago, Sycamore67 said:

This is an interesting question and discussion.  Rolf's graph is helpful.  I do have a question about the graph.  I think the width of the kerf is the important variable rather than the blade thickness. I have tried measuring the kerf and found it always to be a bit more than the blade.

That is why you need to do test cuts. Since different blades have different tooth offsets.  Also the quality and adjustments of a saw also impact the kerf. 

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