Can we just talk about 2/0 blade use!

[Blaughn]

I recently started using the FD Ultra reverse 2/0 blades.  As one committed to not swearing - this was a real test!    When it comes to tight corners the blade just twists - none of the traditional "snap" I am used to from other larger blades.  Any words from the wise?

Bruce

[Joe W.]

Hmm, maybe go slower on the turn?

Plus, I guess the type of wood/thickness has something to do with it too.
My 2/0 use - so far - has been minimal.

Perhaps the amount of tension too may be affecting the turning quickness.

Pretty sure some long-timers have some tidbits of wisdom on this.

[OCtoolguy]

Maybe a bit more tension? Not sure as I've not used that brand or size. Just thinking about what I'd try. Maybe a bit of info regarding what you are cutting would help. Wood, thickness, species etc. Saw brand/type too.

 

 

Edited April 10, 2022 by OCtoolguy

[crupiea]

I use them quite a bit.  They are very flimsy so get it as tight as you can and use thin wood like 1/8".  Even at that it can still be agrivating. 
 

Going really slow is key as well. 

Now, if you want those tight corners with a stiffer blade then try the 2/0 jewelers blades.  They have a ton of teeth, are stiffer and can cut super tight corners without the aggrivation. Plus they are like $20 for a gross on amazon.  I use the pike brand like most people do.  They come in a gold package. 

The downside of these is there are no reverse teeth so it will made a terrible mess on the back side.  The way to fix this is to tape a piece of backing scrap to your piece and cut them both at the same time.  The blade can cut two pieces of 1/8" stock with a bit of care.  You have to go slow as possible though. 
 

Once I stumbled onto this method, it was hard to go back to regular scrollsaw blades.   I still use thes jewelers ones 90% of the time. 

[NC Scroller]

If the blade is twisting, then you are turning the piece too quickly and not allowing the blade to cut through the turn.  The smaller the blade the more careful you have to be.  You can solve this by a combination of speeding the blade up and slowing the rate you are turning the wood.  Also be careful not to ne lifting the wood off the table as you are turning it.

[Blaughn]

38 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

Maybe a bit more tension? Not sure as I've not used that brand or size. Just thinking about what I'd try. Maybe a bit of info regarding what you are cutting would help. Wood, thickness, species etc. Saw brand/type too.

 

 

I am working with 1/4" Cherry on my new pattern.  I think faster blade speed with slower feed makes sense.  I am using an Excalibur with the upgraded Pegus blade holders.

[WayneMahler]

Sometimes trying to make the turn too quickly will give you an issue. Especially with thinner blades. When this starts happening I normally stop at the corner and wait for the blade to catch up and not be flexed. We're talking maybe half a second so burning should not be an issue. I fully agree with keeping proper tension on the blade. 

[OCtoolguy]

15 minutes ago, Blaughn said:

I am working with 1/4" Cherry on my new pattern.  I think faster blade speed with slower feed makes sense.  I am using an Excalibur with the upgraded Pegus blade holders.

Beautiful work there. I like the pattern.

 

[FrankEV]

I never have any trouble turning tight corners when using #2/0 blades...then I use spirals most of the time.

When using any flat MGT R blade, and have a very tight inside corner I tend to use the double cut method.  Cut to the intersection, back out cut a cross over to the opposite line and cut into the intersection.  Turn the piece around the free blade and proceed to cut the line.  No difficulty with any blade. 

For very pointy outside corners I do a loop pattern beyond the point and start the scecond side cut just beyond the point to get a very sharp point.  

Edited April 10, 2022 by FrankEV

[dgman]

I have never had any luck with FD UR 2/0 blades. I use mostly FD UR blades except the 2/0. When I need  a small blade, I go back to Olson 2/0 r blades. I have better control with them 

[Norm Fengstad]

4 hours ago, FrankEV said:

I never have any trouble turning tight corners when using #2/0 blades...then I use spirals most of the time.

When using any flat MGT R blade, and have a very tight inside corner I tend to use the double cut method.  Cut to the intersection, back out cut a cross over to the opposite line and cut into the intersection.  Turn the piece around the free blade and proceed to cut the line.  No difficulty with any blade. 

For very pointy outside corners I do a loop pattern beyond the point and start the scecond side cut just beyond the point to get a very sharp point.  

You have the right idea Frank sometimes I will put slight back pressure as I turn a corner

[Dak0ta52]

I use Pegas blades but when using the 2/0, I turn the speed of the blade up and slow my cuts. When I get to a corner, I stop to make sure the blade has caught up, apply back pressure and make the turn with the piece trying not to move the blade back but keeping it at the intersection. Once I've made the turn, I proceed again slowly to the next intersection. Never had any problems with blade twist. I do make sure I have good tension and if I see the tension lessens during the cut, I'll stop, reset the blade and apply the correct tension again.

[Wichman]

I use FD Polar blades about 90% of the time. I like the stiffness of the Polar blades. With the type of pattern you're cutting I cut to the point and use the back of the blade as the pivot point, IMHO the burr on stamped blades helps in this situation, as you pivot the blade (in the direction of the burr) the burr will help with the cut.

 

When I am cutting a pattern with waste areas, I will use Franks technique or

Cut to the point back out of the cut about 1/4" then rotate the blade 180 (just inside the waste side) then back the blade to the corner and then shift the blade and cut the sharp point.  

Which technique just depends on the pattern, the wood, and how I feel on a particular day.:)

 

[TAIrving]

i use the techniques described by Frank and Wichman.  

I use the Pegas 2/0 blades and find that I have to reduce the tension because they are fragile.  I have had brand new blades snap just from applying full tension.  

[Bill WIlson]

15 hours ago, dgman said:

I have never had any luck with FD UR 2/0 blades. I use mostly FD UR blades except the 2/0. When I need  a small blade, I go back to Olson 2/0 r blades. I have better control with them 

Apparently FD UR 2/0 blades are historically notorious for being difficult to control.  I experienced this myself many years ago and I avoided FD blades in general for some time, due to the bad experience I had with the 2/0.  However, over the years I've heard this complaint from several other veteran scrollers, confirming the fact that there is a distinct difference between FD 2/0 and other brands.  In fact, a few of us were discussing this very issue at our last scroll saw club meeting a couple weeks ago.

I've sometime wondered if the "problem", if there was one, ever got resolved.  I haven't tried an FD UR 2/0 in a long time.  I still use Olson 2/0, but mainly FD's for other sizes and types of blades.

[edward]

I had the same problem with the 2/0 reverse in fact I ruined  a piece because they were to aggressive on the turns, looks like I will go back to the regular FD 2/0 which I was happy with and no problems.

[Blaughn]

On 4/10/2022 at 1:24 PM, crupiea said:

I use them quite a bit.  They are very flimsy so get it as tight as you can and use thin wood like 1/8".  Even at that it can still be agrivating. 
 

Going really slow is key as well. 

Now, if you want those tight corners with a stiffer blade then try the 2/0 jewelers blades.  They have a ton of teeth, are stiffer and can cut super tight corners without the aggrivation. Plus they are like $20 for a gross on amazon.  I use the pike brand like most people do.  They come in a gold package. 

The downside of these is there are no reverse teeth so it will made a terrible mess on the back side.  The way to fix this is to tape a piece of backing scrap to your piece and cut them both at the same time.  The blade can cut two pieces of 1/8" stock with a bit of care.  You have to go slow as possible though. 
 

Once I stumbled onto this method, it was hard to go back to regular scrollsaw blades.   I still use thes jewelers ones 90% of the time. 

Thanks for the recommendation, Tony.  I have ordered a batch.

 

Bruce

[Joe W.]

18 hours ago, Wichman said:

Which technique just depends on the pattern, the wood, and how I feel on a particular day.:)

 

Roger that!

Today I cut on 3/4" pine, 1/2" red oak, and 1/4" Baltic Birch.  The differences in cutting speed, feed rate, and blade lasting sharpness was noticeable. 

[stoney]

I see nothing in that pattern that I could not cut efficiently with a #1 or even a #3 blade.  I have been scrolling for many years, cut some highly detailed patterns and don't believe I have used a full dozen 2/0 blades.   I would suggest your issues would diminish or disappear with a larger blade. JMHO 

[OCtoolguy]

5 hours ago, stoney said:

I see nothing in that pattern that I could not cut efficiently with a #1 or even a #3 blade.  I have been scrolling for many years, cut some highly detailed patterns and don't believe I have used a full dozen 2/0 blades.   I would suggest your issues would diminish or disappear with a larger blade. JMHO 

I use Pegas # 5 for almost everything. I don't do much fretwork though. I have tried using the #3's but not often.