Bad day in the workshop.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Not a good day in the workshop messed up a pattern Again. Went back and checked the saw out (Wen) last week I replaced the tension rod, as always here in S A agents have no stock, tried Ryobi (same part) firstly the “sales” person did not know what I was asking for despite quoting the Ryobi part number, after nearly 45 minutes sorry we don’t have stock. So I looked at the tension rod it’s a 1/4” left hand thread rod, so I bought 3 x 40” rods cut them to size ( made 5 spare) reassembled tested every works fine very nice and quite. 

I get the feeling whilst cutting its as if the blade is “attacking” the wood ( 1/8 double stacked Birch Ply grade B/BB) checked blade direction, stand is level in both directions saw table level in both directions, saw blade 100% square to the table top, but it still just did not feel good, don’t know what else to check. Very disappointed don’t feel like going into the workshop tomorrow or the next few days. So much effort amounts to nought.

Any advice would be welcome and Please don’t tell me to get another saw, we only have three or four choices all the same but just different brands. I’m a pensioner for me to import a Seyco or Pegasus into S A with courier fees and our corrupt governments imports duties the saw would cost me $2850.

[John B]

Don, I know bugger all about that model of saw, but it sounds to me like the blade has a lot of backward and forward motion. I don't know if there is a way of adjusting this on a Wen. Move the blade to it's lowest point and place a piece of wood or a rule against the back of it, then move the blade to it's highest point and see how much the wood moved or the gap between it and the blade.
That's about all I have to offer, sorry mate. Hope you get it sorted soon

[Insane Dust Maker]

John, thanks for that it worth looking at considering that I have checked about as much as I can, if I do see movement on the wood then I’ll strip it down again and recheck. The back of the saw is tilted 4” as recommended on another site, I don’t thick that matters, I don’t know I only recently changed to the tilt position, for the past year I always cut with the saw flat on the stand, someone on the other group I belong to suggested lowering the saw a bit but I don’t think that has anything to do with the way the saw is cutting.

[Wichman]

Have you checked the blade for square to the table front to back?, if the top of the blade is positioned either in front or behind the bottom of the blade, you will get more aggressive cutting. This can be caused by a misalignment when putting the saw back together, by clamping at the wrong place on the blade clamp or reversing one of the blade clamps.

Are you using pinned blades or pin less? If you are using pin less blades try some pinned or the reverse. See if there is a change.

Let us know how it goes, what works and what doesn't.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Whicman, checked as per John suggestion the blade at the back was about 1/64” out on the blade alignment (front & back) adjusted my pin less blade adaptors I made, rechecked everything for square to the table top, all good, remade my blade holders during the week and am not getting any blade slippage, done some test cuts and the cuts are dead straight, so for now it looks good will have to do some more cutting to be absolutely sure.

[WayneMahler]

Sounds like you got it worked out Don. Happy to hear that. Keep us posted how it all works out for you.

[OCtoolguy]

I'm glad that you have the mechanical aptitude and ability to "fix" your problem. Those saws have been the reason many beginners get frustrated and give up a great hobby. It's a darned shame that your country's government makes it so difficult to access better equipment. 

[Insane Dust Maker]

Wayne,

While I scroll I spend the time listening to music, but most importantly I sit and scroll and have conversations with God, the Holy Spirit focuses my eyes and places his hands on mine and we scroll together. I’m self taught there’s no scroll saw help here in S A.

[FrankEV]

Sorry to sound contrite, but I think a simple solution may be to slow your cutting speed.  High speed equal ahressive cutting.  Also. Possible tooooooo agressive blade selection for the wood you are cutting.  Thin wood means use small blade.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Frank, so if I’m cutting 1/8 Birch Ply, what blade should I be using bearing mind our blade availability here S A is very poor. I can probably get #2/0, 3/0 is straight blades, nothing thinner in reverse tooth, and you can forget spiral, our supplier only starts a #3.

And what would I use if I double stack to 1/8, tried #1 and that’s where I had all my problems, it seemed to attack the wood. 
 

I currently cutting a Russ Beard Leopard using 1/4” Birch Ply and cutting with a #2 straight and it looks dam fine.