Other Fiinishes?

[new2woodwrk]

Thought i posted this the other day. If dupe, please remove...

I'm on the hunt for a new finish for the puzzles I make.

I currently follow the @Iguanadon school of puzzle making and finishing (Food grade mineral oil + 1 or 2 coats Shellac). I use water colors and food dyes on various puzzles for coloring, but that does not provide for a nice finish and end up spraying them with shellac

The finish was fine for the longest time, but I would like to try a different finish. Something more "shiny" that won't impede putting the puzzle together.

I've used spray Acrylic, poly urethane (spar as well) on other projects but for puzzles the finish is too thick.

Does anyone know of another medium that I can try that would give the wood a nice sheen without interfering with the puzzle pieces?

Thanks as always in advance

[lawson56]

Really wish I could help ya, Sorry. I haven't done a puzzle is quit some time. And when I did i used a Spray urethane.

[new2woodwrk]

44 minutes ago, lawson56 said:

Really wish I could help ya, Sorry. I haven't done a puzzle is quit some time. And when I did i used a Spray urethane.

I find Spraying Urethane of any sheen impedes the puzzle pieces. Did you not find that as well when you did them?

[Roberta Moreton]

Danish oil works. It does not give a high shine. My only suggestion is use a slightly larger blade. 

[dgman]

I cut a lot of stand up puzzles using various hardwoods from 3/4” to 1”. I use a #3 Flying Dutchman Polar blade for these. I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits to bring out the color and grain. Then when dry, usually in 24 hours, I’ll spray a topcoat of spray lacquer. I used to use Deft lacquer, but I can’t find it anymore. So I use minwax spray lacquer found at Lowes. It comes in satin, semi gloss and gloss. I like the semi gloss. Two coats is good for me with no issues assembling or taking apart the pieces.

[OCtoolguy]

I don't do puzzles but I top coat most everything I make. after danish oil I spray a coat or 2 of Zinnser's spray shellac. Give it a try.

[new2woodwrk]

11 minutes ago, OCtoolguy said:

I don't do puzzles but I top coat most everything I make. after danish oil I spray a coat or 2 of Zinnser's spray shellac. Give it a try.

That's what I do now. Looking for a different finish than shellac

 

[new2woodwrk]

22 minutes ago, dgman said:

I cut a lot of stand up puzzles using various hardwoods from 3/4” to 1”. I use a #3 Flying Dutchman Polar blade for these. I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits to bring out the color and grain. Then when dry, usually in 24 hours, I’ll spray a topcoat of spray lacquer. I used to use Deft lacquer, but I can’t find it anymore. So I use minwax spray lacquer found at Lowes. It comes in satin, semi gloss and gloss. I like the semi gloss. Two coats is good for me with no issues assembling or taking apart the pieces.

You don't find the Lacquer causes the pieces to stick together?

I've used lacquer in the past and the puzzle pieces were too difficult to get apart and put back.

[new2woodwrk]

1 hour ago, Roberta Moreton said:

Danish oil works. It does not give a high shine. My only suggestion is use a slightly larger blade. 

Unfortunately a larger blade does not give the detail of the puzzle for which our customers have become familiar. Larger blade would equate to larger gaps between the pieces - not an option for us.

[dgman]

18 minutes ago, new2woodwrk said:

You don't find the Lacquer causes the pieces to stick together?

I've used lacquer in the past and the puzzle pieces were too difficult to get apart and put back.

No I do not. Disassemble the puzzle before you spray. Two lite coats, 30 minutes apart. Let the puzzle dry before you put it together. One consideration is I am in Southern California, we don’t have the humidity you have in Florida, so that might be an issue. You may have to wait longer to let the lacquer to dry.

Edited May 21, 2022 by dgman

[FrankEV]

5 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

Thought i posted this the other day. If dupe, please remove...

I'm on the hunt for a new finish for the puzzles I make.

I currently follow the @Iguanadon school of puzzle making and finishing (Food grade mineral oil + 1 or 2 coats Shellac). I use water colors and food dyes on various puzzles for coloring, but that does not provide for a nice finish and end up spraying them with shellac

The finish was fine for the longest time,

 

5 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

Does anyone know of another medium that I can try that would give the wood a nice sheen without interfering with the puzzle pieces?

 

Try spray lacquer.  Hard, clear, shinny or satin and not a very thick build up, so it  should not interfere with puzzle assembly.

[Millwab]

4 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

I find Spraying Urethane of any sheen impedes the puzzle pieces.

Jes, have you considered spraying the puzzles before cutting them apart?  This would give you the sheen you want without binding the pieces. 

[Wichman]

2 hours ago, FrankEV said:

 

Try spray lacquer.  Hard, clear, shinny or satin and not a very thick build up, so it  should not interfere with puzzle assembly.

Frank,

     I really not trying to be difficult (although I am). Which lacquer (brand and type specific, please) are you using?  In the current market the term "lacquer" is a catchall that includes many variations. What you are using may be very different than what others may find on the shelves.

 

[Roberta Moreton]

12 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

Unfortunately a larger blade does not give the detail of the puzzle for which our customers have become familiar. Larger blade would equate to larger gaps between the pieces - not an option for us.

However, my point is because it makes the puzzle too tight your way, my way should loosen it just enough. You won’t know until you try. 

[dgman]

10 hours ago, Wichman said:

Frank,

     I really not trying to be difficult (although I am). Which lacquer (brand and type specific, please) are you using?  In the current market the term "lacquer" is a catchall that includes many variations. What you are using may be very different than what others may find on the shelves.

 

If you read my first reply, I state that I use minwax semi gloss spray lacquer. I disagree that the term lacquer is a catchall. Lacquer is lacquer.

[FrankEV]

12 hours ago, Wichman said:

Frank,

     I really not trying to be difficult (although I am). Which lacquer (brand and type specific, please) are you using?  In the current market the term "lacquer" is a catchall that includes many variations. What you are using may be very different than what others may find on the shelves.

 

I have used many of the popular brands of rattle can spray in both clear gloss and satin (most often Gloss), Minwax being the most readily available almost everywhere.  However, I am a fan of Deft Brand that I get at my local Ace Hardware.   The cans do not clog,  drys very quickly with little blushing, lays fairly smooth needing only a very light sanding with 1500 grit paper after the initinal coat with no or very little sanding needed after additional coats and enhances wood color while not adding any yellowing, like poly does.  I dont have the ability to use a spray gun these days but did when I had my shop in NC where I also use DEFT brand bulk Lacquer.  Used it often for furniture pieces. 

I will occasionaly use a lacquer sanding sealer on solid wood projects that need a sanding and shaping, especially on softer woods, although most often on even Hard Maple.

For Black Lacquer the only brand I can find it in locally is Krylon,  but not too happy about the final finish.  Tends to run and/or not cover with a nice uniform coat. 

As and aside, I prefer Wipe-on Poly to spray poly.  Using a fine grit paper to apply and rub in the WO, I get get very rich smooth poly finish w/o the thick apperance that make things look like flooring. 

I hope this info helps.

[new2woodwrk]

20 hours ago, Millwab said:

Jes, have you considered spraying the puzzles before cutting them apart?  This would give you the sheen you want without binding the pieces. 

No, I have not even considered doing it this way. Wouldn't the finish dull/stick to the blade?

[new2woodwrk]

Lots of great suggestions and greatly appreciate everyone's input

I have some canned spray lacquer I may give that a try this week on some test subjects

I have too many customs this week to knock out, so it may have to wait until next week

I'll update once I do a few runs

Lacquer here is a bit expensive however.

[Gonzo]

Have ya tried Kevin’s recipe of beeswax and mineral oil? It’s one of my two favorite finishes. Shiny? No. However, this  finish gives a “deep” luster. Easy to apply and very forgiving. I apply it with a brush or by hand, use a hair dryer to get it in the nooks and crannies, and then hand rub the piece.  I use it on all of the puzzles that I make that are not painted. 
An added plus, is that it is a good lotion for dry hands. (Big smile).

My other favorite finish that you might want to try is Minwax Antique Oil Finish.  Again, it’s not shiny, but will give a deep luster. This finish will definitely make the grain “pop”.

 

 

[John B]

I use a gloss lacquer on all of my toys and puzzles. This gives the best protection, while being quick drying and also allowing the puzzle/toy etc to be wiped over with a damp cloth if it should ever require it.

[Sycamore67]

I use Danish oil in a Ziploc bag and then wipe excess off.  I use two coats and let thoroughly dry.  After dry, I use a Butchers wax and a buffing wheel on my drill press.  Gives a nice look and feel to the pieces.

[John B]

On 5/22/2022 at 8:04 AM, new2woodwrk said:

Lacquer here is a bit expensive however.

It's not cheap, especially in the pressure packs. I purchase it in 4 litre cans. It does work out not to bad a price as it is usually thinned about 2 to 0ne.

[Millwab]

On 5/21/2022 at 8:01 PM, new2woodwrk said:

No, I have not even considered doing it this way. Wouldn't the finish dull/stick to the blade?

Not a problem as long as you let it cure before cutting. I routinely spray my jigsaw puzzles before cutting and have never had a problem. 

[kmmcrafts]

On 5/21/2022 at 9:10 PM, Gonzo said:

Have ya tried Kevin’s recipe of beeswax and mineral oil? It’s one of my two favorite finishes. Shiny? No. However, this  finish gives a “deep” luster. Easy to apply and very forgiving. I apply it with a brush or by hand, use a hair dryer to get it in the nooks and crannies, and then hand rub the piece.  I use it on all of the puzzles that I make that are not painted. 
An added plus, is that it is a good lotion for dry hands. (Big smile).

My other favorite finish that you might want to try is Minwax Antique Oil Finish.  Again, it’s not shiny, but will give a deep luster. This finish will definitely make the grain “pop”.

 

 

A plus to the beeswax mineral oil is that it makes the wood feel silky smooth as the wax sort of fills in the pores / grain of the wood.. also the puzzle pieces are slick to slide together or fall apart ..  There are tons of methods as you can already see from the comments.. The beeswax / mineral oil mix isn't the fastest method to apply to the puzzles though. 

[new2woodwrk]

18 hours ago, Millwab said:

Not a problem as long as you let it cure before cutting. I routinely spray my jigsaw puzzles before cutting and have never had a problem. 

I doubt I have the time to let them cure completely before cutting. We create on a 1 week turn around for stock inventory items and customized on a 1-3 week turn around