3d cut question

[new2woodwrk]

I've done a few 3d cuts, nothing worth posting yet, but I do have a question

In all the reading I've done in regards to blanks - the articles all talk about making the blank square or at least the size of the pattern

My question though is: Is this really necessary since you are cutting out the stock anyway.

What I mean is: Say you have a 1" x 6" pattern with a fold but your blank is 1 1/2" x 8" does that extra 1/2" really matter when you're cutting it?

Seems to me, it would not matter

Thoughts?

 

[Roberta Moreton]

I have cut quite a few compound cuts. Yes, it matters.  The problem CAN come with the proportions on the opposite cut.  Remember, you tape it all back together before cutting the opposite side. That little 1/4” or 1/2” can really change the outcome. 

[Dan]

My experience is no, it doesn't matter if the material is slightly larger. Of course, that means you may be cutting through more material than you need to which can cause the blade to wear faster and if you push too hard it could be difficult to remove your gem on the inside. The important thing is to make sure the pattern halves are lined up at the same corner, otherwise, like Roberta said, it will be not as expected. This is all assuming you are talking about a pattern that is 1" x 1" x 6".

[OCtoolguy]

Makes no difference at all. As long as your block is perfectly 90 degrees on the two faces your pattern is on and your fold line is exactly on that square edge. 

[Sycamore67]

It makes a difference in how hard it is to cut. The extra half inch makes it significantly more difficult to cut and get the finer details.  With thick wood you have to go much slower and will wear out blades quicker.  

[OCtoolguy]

14 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

Makes no difference at all. As long as your block is perfectly 90 degrees on the two faces your pattern is on and your fold line is exactly on that straight edge. 

Let me clear up what I wrote. I said that the 2 pattern sides had to be square to each other. Wrong! All 4 sides must be square. The side that is down and in contact with the table is what dictates how perpendicular the cutting is to the blade so it must be parallel to the top side. 

As to the question of how much extra wood you have that is not part of the pattern, it just makes sense to trim off the excess so as not to be cutting wood unnecessarily. 

[Bill WIlson]

No the stock doesn't necessarily need to be square, in the sense that all 4 sides are the same dimension.  It's easier to cut that way, but not necessary.  

What is necessary, in terms of the stock being square is that all 4 sides are exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the adjacent side(s).  Along this requirement, the blade also has to be square to the saw table and the pattern has to be placed properly and precisely on the blank to ensure that the finished piece ends up even and proportional.

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, Bill WIlson said:

No the stock doesn't necessarily need to be square, in the sense that all 4 sides are the same dimension.  It's easier to cut that way, but not necessary.  

What is necessary, in terms of the stock being square is that all 4 sides are exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the adjacent side(s).  Along this requirement, the blade also has to be square to the saw table and the pattern has to be placed properly and precisely on the blank to ensure that the finished piece ends up even and proportional.

You said it correctly. That's what I meant but phrased it wrong.