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Americana 12 (2 of 2)


Dak0ta52

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On 5/30/2022 at 1:18 AM, wombatie said:

Amazing work.  Love the way you only colored the truck.

Marg

The color is actually the result of an accident... burning fuzzies with a torch and the wind blew the flame through the grill area of the truck. Tried light sanding but the char was too deep. Decided to try the darker stain. I'm happy with the results.

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11 hours ago, Dak0ta52 said:

burning fuzzies with a torch and the wind blew the flame through the grill area of the truck. ..

Always use a piece of hardwood or MDF behind (if standing up) or below (if laying down flat) the cut panel when torching fuzzies.  Never try to burn the fuzzies off without a back up board to prevent the flame from licking through and charring the good side.  Clean up fuzzies first with a sanding mop and then use the torch moving it quite quickly like spray painting to get the last remnants of fuzzies.

BTW, great work.  Very well done.

Edited by FrankEV
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1 hour ago, FrankEV said:

Always use a piece of hardwood or MDF behind (if standing up) or below (if laying down flat) the cut panel when torching fuzzies.  Never try to burn the fuzzies off without a back up board to prevent the flame from licking through and charring the good side.  Clean up fuzzies first with a sanding mop and then use the torch moving it quite quickly like spray painting to get the last remnants of fuzzies.

BTW, great work.  Very well done.

Thanks, Frank. I didn't know that about using a "backer board" for the front when burning. I'll give that a try next time. Started a pretty big piece that I'm sure will require a lot of cleaning once complete.

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2 hours ago, Dak0ta52 said:

...will require a lot of cleaning once complete.

I use my sanding mop frequently as I proceed on a large project.  Maybe every 1/8 to 1/4 of the cutting area.  I find by doing so, I get less drag on the cut panel allowing it to slide more smoothly while cutting.  I use the torch for the final fuzzie removal.  I also wax my table as soon as I feel any drag occuring.

Edited by FrankEV
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Thanks Dave. I was fortunate that I have a friend who bought out a picture framing company. He had lots and lots of framing boards and decided he wanted them out of his shop. I was happy to take them off his hands. I'm also learning every time I cut a new frame. I built a framing jig for my table saw that helps a lot. My miter saw isn't true enough to give me good 90 degree angles. I have created a few frames from regular boards and routed my notch.

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On 6/2/2022 at 1:53 PM, FrankEV said:

Always use a piece of hardwood or MDF behind (if standing up) or below (if laying down flat) the cut panel when torching fuzzies.  Never try to burn the fuzzies off without a back up board to prevent the flame from licking through and charring the good side.  Clean up fuzzies first with a sanding mop and then use the torch moving it quite quickly like spray painting to get the last remnants of fuzzies.

BTW, great work.  Very well done.

Interesting! What a good idea, never would of thought of that. 
I agree, that piece is very impressive DakOta52! 

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Well done pard. The touch of color adds a great deal to the portrait, even though it began as an accident. And the rough wood frame fits the portrait perfectly.

As to fuzzies, I use FD Ultra Reverse blades for just about everything I cut, and there are almost no fuzzies. That style of blade is 2 down and 1 up in repetition throughout the entire blade length, so the up-cut teeth keep the fuzzies to a minimum. The few that are still present can easily be removed with a Mouse. I have uesd a torch at times in the past and while it is an effective way to remove fuzzies, you just have to be cautious.

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8 hours ago, Jim Blume said:

Well done pard. The touch of color adds a great deal to the portrait, even though it began as an accident. And the rough wood frame fits the portrait perfectly.

As to fuzzies, I use FD Ultra Reverse blades for just about everything I cut, and there are almost no fuzzies. That style of blade is 2 down and 1 up in repetition throughout the entire blade length, so the up-cut teeth keep the fuzzies to a minimum. The few that are still present can easily be removed with a Mouse. I have uesd a torch at times in the past and while it is an effective way to remove fuzzies, you just have to be cautious.

Thanks Jim. When I'm cutting something with smooth, straight-line cuts, I typically use Pegas MGT which is good for removing fuzzies. On this piece, and most of those I cut using large, difficult patterns, I use Pegas spirals. My saw only has a 16-inch throat so you can imagine how difficult it would be spinning a piece such as this one on that small saw. Especially with the number of cuts it has. Occasionally I will put on a straight blade to make a cut I feel is critical to have a sharp angle.

By the way, I started the Western Stagecoach but had to put it aside for some commission work.

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