Ornament Branding Signature Etc.

[kmmcrafts]

While this method won't really work with fretwork / scroll sawn ornaments I was wondering what your thoughts are on placing stickers or signing your work on the back side of ornaments. This is a custom personalized photo lasered ornament for a client and I placed the sticker ( custom made from Vistaprint from the return address template )on the back side which is blank. My wife says she don't like it that way, I've always wanted a way to mark my ornaments ( really difficult with scroll sawn ornaments so don't do it on those ) for the customers or gift recipients to know where it came from etc. I could very easily just flip the ornament over and engrave my website on the back etc. However doing that ties up the laser from doing more engraving. Stickers are quick.. but at the same time don't want to cheapen my product by being quick if that makes any sense. It's not like this is a hand wood burned engraving etc. so I feel like personalized with a hand burned signature really isn't warranted. Maybe I just need to sign it with a Sharpe pen like I do my clocks and other handmade / scroll sawn items.. The sticker was just a idea I thought I'd try. Wondering what your thoughts are for this. I'm guessing you'll say hand signed with Sharpe. Too late now on this one as I clear coated over the sticker,   

Edited June 8, 2022 by kmmcrafts

[barb.j.enders]

Kev,  I think I would have preferred the hand signing.  I think the sticker makes it look "cheap".  Not really the word I am looking for but not sure what works better.  It just looks "wrong".

[BadBob]

I agree with @barb.j.enders . If you really want to use a sticker please make it removable. So the buyer can easily remove it if they don't like it.

I don't care for the blank back on the ornament. I would have engraved both sides with the same or another photo. The back of the car comes to mind.

[WayneMahler]

Not a fan of the sticker. I would sign them like other pieces.

[kmmcrafts]

2 hours ago, barb.j.enders said:

Kev,  I think I would have preferred the hand signing.  I think the sticker makes it look "cheap".  Not really the word I am looking for but not sure what works better.  It just looks "wrong".

Thank you, I sort of felt the same way but only after I clear coated it, LOL.. actually I did try to peel it back off once i put it on but it was trying to rip and not come off so I stuck it back down and cleared over it. 

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, BadBob said:

I agree with @barb.j.enders . If you really want to use a sticker please make it removable. So the buyer can easily remove it if they don't like it.

I don't care for the blank back on the ornament. I would have engraved both sides with the same or another photo. The back of the car comes to mind.

Yeah, when I first started doing laser work I thought the same thing.. I've tried to engrave both sides but many times end up ruining it because it don't take hardly any movement to get it off center then the back side looks worst because it's not engraved in the correct spot. I now have a method / template or jig that might make that process go better.. the issue is every photo crops differently and isn't always the same size.. so the jig would need to be made for each photo engrave.. I haven't found any super easy way to line everything up perfectly to do both sides yet, still working / thinking on that.. I might figure it out at some point. 

[new2woodwrk]

Here's the thing for me... First I agree with the "not a fan of the sticker" but I think for a different reason

Reputation is everything IMO, and you do some incredible work. Putting a sticker on it, "cheapens" it in my eyes and is beneath the quality and reputation you have built.

Hope that didn't offend

[Millwab]

10 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah, when I first started doing laser work I thought the same thing.. I've tried to engrave both sides but many times end up ruining it because it don't take hardly any movement to get it off center then the back side looks worst because it's not engraved in the correct spot. I now have a method / template or jig that might make that process go better.. the issue is every photo crops differently and isn't always the same size.. so the jig would need to be made for each photo engrave.. I haven't found any super easy way to line everything up perfectly to do both sides yet, still working / thinking on that.. I might figure it out at some point. 

Kevin, when I’m engraving multiples I use a "L" shaped piece weighted down so I doesn’t move to line things up. I set the inside corner of the "L" as my home position and then do a perimeter scan to make sure the engraving is going where I want it to. Once set you simply carefully slide the blanks into corner of the "L" and repeat your burn. 

[John B]

I tie a tag to my decorations so that the purchaser and if a gift, the recipient can see where it was made etc. It is easily removable. The tree decorations typically revolve when hung on tree, so the back will be visible. You will not find a sticker or branding on any of our decorations as the 1st thing I do when I get one is to remove them before hanging.

[Fab4]

Hi Kev:
I like John B's method - add a tag to it - have to agree with the above about the tag
Your work is awesome, so take the extra time it takes to make it look right even if it is only the backside
it will only benefit you in the end.  One last thing - does the hole have to be that big for the hanger?
Keep up the great work Kev
Fab4

[kmmcrafts]

9 hours ago, Millwab said:

Kevin, when I’m engraving multiples I use a "L" shaped piece weighted down so I doesn’t move to line things up. I set the inside corner of the "L" as my home position and then do a perimeter scan to make sure the engraving is going where I want it to. Once set you simply carefully slide the blanks into corner of the "L" and repeat your burn. 

I've had luck doing that with items that are square or have long straight edges.. I've taken the cut oval ornaments out while leaving the wood in the machine flip the ornament over and stick it back in the hole where I just cut it out of.. but the ornament is slightly smaller and has wiggle room in the hole that it was just cut from.. probably not a difference if I was engraving another photo but text can run crooked etc. doing it this way.. I may play around more with it as when I tried this was when I was brand new to lasering.. I struggled to get it to engrave where I wanted it too, LOL I might be able to do it now that I've kind of learned the machine and software etc. 

[kmmcrafts]

Just wanted to say thank you all for your honest opinions on this idea I had brainstormed, 

I normally don't add a signature of any kind to ornaments.. they normally get put into small jewelry gift boxes with a business card inside the box. Sometimes I use the stickers to sort of seal the box lid onto the box. I ended up sanding off the clear and sticker and re-coating the clear on this project. 

Sometimes I brainstorm ideas thinking they might be easier or quicker and in the end I really need to just keep doing what I do. Thank you all for talking me out of doing any more of these like this, sometimes I need outside opinions to keep me on track with quality products.  

[TAIrving]

On 6/8/2022 at 7:16 AM, kmmcrafts said:

 I could very easily just flip the ornament over and engrave my website on the back etc. However doing that ties up the laser from doing more engraving.

 

Kevin, @kmmcrafts

I bought a small, inexpensive laser (about $200) just to do engraving on the back of my projects.  As a bonus, I can make my logo larger or smaller to fit the piece I am engraving.  This would not tie up your expensive laser from doing other work.  

Thurman

[BadBob]

22 hours ago, TAIrving said:

I bought a small, inexpensive laser (about $200) just to do engraving on the back of my projects.  As a bonus, I can make my logo larger or smaller to fit the piece I am engraving.  This would not tie up your expensive laser from doing other work. 

Exactly what I want to do.

 

[rustynail]

I went to an office supply store were they make custom rubber stamps and for about $10 you can get a custom stamp made any size and put anything you want on it. Works good, fast, an cheap, and will last forever, you just need to reink the pad now and then.   

[kmmcrafts]

2 hours ago, rustynail said:

I went to an office supply store were they make custom rubber stamps and for about $10 you can get a custom stamp made any size and put anything you want on it. Works good, fast, an cheap, and will last forever, you just need to reink the pad now and then.   

Not a bad idea.. I can actually make rubber stamps with the laser.. I've heard it stinks bad cutting rubber but it'd be just a one time deal, LOL.. Imagine it'd take a long time to wear out the stamp.. LOL

[Millwab]

11 hours ago, rustynail said:

I went to an office supply store were they make custom rubber stamps and for about $10 you can get a custom stamp made any size and put anything you want on it. Works good, fast, an cheap, and will last forever, you just need to reink the pad now and then.   

Would you have to stamp it before a finish is applied or after?

[John B]

16 minutes ago, Millwab said:

Would you have to stamp it before a finish is applied or after?

It really depends upon the type of ink you use. Some will bleed if stamped direct to timber, and some will not.

[John B]

11 hours ago, rustynail said:

I went to an office supply store were they make custom rubber stamps and for about $10 you can get a custom stamp made any size and put anything you want on it. Works good, fast, an cheap, and will last forever, you just need to reink the pad now and then.   

This is exactly what I used on most of my products. I leave a space for my initials and or the date, depending upon the job.

 

[Millwab]

6 minutes ago, John B said:

It really depends upon the type of ink you use. Some will bleed if stamped direct to timber, and some will not.

That’s why I asked. Most of the stamps made today (that I’m aware of) come with the ink pad integral to the stamp. Not sure if you’d have a choice of ink. 

[John B]

3 hours ago, Millwab said:

That’s why I asked. Most of the stamps made today (that I’m aware of) come with the ink pad integral to the stamp. Not sure if you’d have a choice of ink. 

I don't use those, because they are to restrictive. I think you can get them inked with several types of ink, but a good rubber stamp and an ink pad does the job. You can then even use different colours

[BadBob]

 

I have tried the rubber stamp. You can get anything you want.

https://www.rubberstamps.net/

Ink bleeds on bare wood.

It is challenging to get the stamp on neatly.

They make ink that will stick to about anything, but it isn't cheap.

I currently don't sign or mark or sign my work. I was not too fond of the idea of signing my work and ruining the piece in the process.

 

[rustynail]

On 6/14/2022 at 8:44 AM, BadBob said:

 

I have tried the rubber stamp. You can get anything you want.

https://www.rubberstamps.net/

Ink bleeds on bare wood.

It is challenging to get the stamp on neatly.

They make ink that will stick to about anything, but it isn't cheap.

I currently don't sign or mark or sign my work. I was not too fond of the idea of signing my work and ruining the piece in the process.

 

These are the kinds of stamps I was talking about. if you are good at how much ink you use or ink and then stamp on paper first you wont get the bleed on the bare wood. Once its on the bare wood I do a very light spray of clear coat.

Richard

[rustynail]

I looked quick for ink that won't smug  and there are lots out there. Here's the first one I found so coast is not a factor. I have a small bottle of ink from 20 years ago I still use so I have not tried the smug less ink.

https://www.amazon.com/Ranger-AIP-31468-Archival-Ink-Pads/dp/B0056ETF8I/ref=sr_1_5_mod_primary_new?gclid=Cj0KCQjwzLCVBhD3ARIsAPKYTcTW1iKUXhXL21Bh3nFbKnstnJ3QWu9ARAdFT66rT9q6ucxcHS9rKwAaAoFMEALw_wcB&hvadid=598854021091&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9017139&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13341302947594531431&hvtargid=kwd-879601310375&hydadcr=21342_13367030&keywords=smudge+proof+ink+pad&qid=1655465712&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-5

Edited June 17, 2022 by rustynail

[John B]

Pigment ink doesn't bleed like alcohol does. Also some inks will try to pull away from finished surfaces, especially gloss, so It's just a matter of finding the correct one for your needs. An ink pad and a small bottle of ink can last years. Another tip is to store your inkpad upside down.