Millwab Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 Normally I use 3M77 to glue down patterns but I have a need to be able to fine tune the pattern position (the 77 tends to act like contact cement in that once it’s down it’s down). But then I need it to stay put once it’s in place. Has anyone used a "repositionable" spray adhesive? Will this work for what I need? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctutor Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 stopped using spray adhesive. I use 81/2 x 11 address label paper. Works well. Print directly on it and peel and stick. can get re positionable and permanent. Juan Rodriguez, OCtoolguy, danny and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 47 minutes ago, Ctutor said: stopped using spray adhesive. I use 81/2 x 11 address label paper. Works well. Print directly on it and peel and stick. can get re positionable and permanent. Try 3M45. It might not be as sticky. Also, use 1/10 th the amount you think you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 I use 3M77. It can be shifted when first applied. If you need to make an adjustment it can be carefully lifted and reapplied. But I normally cover that with packing tape. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, WayneMahler said: I use 3M77. It can be shifted when first applied. I have been able to remove it if I am cautious. I have never been able to reposition it. My definition of repositioning is when I need to move the pattern just a tiny bit, and I can slide it to the position I want. I have some that do this, but I will not recommend these as the solvent in the glue soaks through the paper and will desolve my pattern. Edited June 20, 2022 by BadBob OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crupiea Posted June 21, 2022 Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 I use 77 but just a lot lighter coat. Barely spray enough to get it wet. Wait a few minutes until it is just barely tacky. I wait 4 minutes. Then put it on the wood. It will stay on for the work but peel right off when you need it to. It takes a bit of practice to get the tacky feel just right but once you start doing it like this, you will love it. The trick is, barely tacky and no shine to it. barely tacky. Way less than a post it note, way less. John B and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted June 21, 2022 Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 I used to use this a good bit. I think I got it at Michaels. Haven't been there in some time, so I've been using other brands lately, but this stuff worked pretty well. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted June 22, 2022 Report Share Posted June 22, 2022 I find that by spraying one side only, the paper is easily removable and can be repositioned, but each time the adhesion gets weaker. For a permanent bond I spray both surfaces and once tacky, almost dry, place them together and apply pressure. Not never coming apart then crupiea and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted June 23, 2022 Report Share Posted June 23, 2022 I do mostly 3D cutting, and the advantage is that the pattern paper comes off with the scrap, since the item being cut comes out of the center of the block of wood, so removing the pattern from the finished work isn't a problem. For these, I use regular stationary store rubber cement. It isn't a spray. You have to brush it on, but it does come off with mineral spirits. The plus is that it is repositionable for a short time after the pattern is applied to the work. Not long though, maybe 20 seconds. I have used it for 2D work and it does come off by wetting the pattern with mineral spirits applied to the surface of the pattern and then waiting for it to soak through. Then a light sanding of the work piece removes any residual cement and it's ready for staining/finishing. Charley OCtoolguy and Gene Howe 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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