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Compound cutting question


jerry walters

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Before asking my question I want to thank you for your kind and helpful comments welcoming me to the scroll saw village. Because of your comments I have gotten hooked on General Scroll Sawing section.   Read one then another and before I know is't bedtime.  I don't even like to read.  Again, thanks for welcoming me.

I mostly do fret work on 1/4 and 1/2 wood, but have been thinking about compound cutting.  Since this is new to me I thought I would try a simple design on a pine 2x4, juse a simple car outline.  I have a Pegas scroll saw and used a Flying Duthman # 12 SR blade.  I found the cutting pretty hard and had quite a bit of chatter.  I determined the chatter was caused by the reverse teeth. but don't know for sure.  I would on occasion get chatter while cutting on 1/4 and 1/2 wood, but thought it was just me.  I read Shelia Landry's post on how to get a more aggressive cut, but since I am not mechanically inclined, I'm afraid to try it.

Maybe I'm using the wrong blade.  Any suggestion you have will be greatly appreciated.  I'm guessing this question has been asked before, if so, my apology for asking again.

Jerry

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G'day Jerry,
#12 is pretty aggressive blade! I have found a strange thing with blades in scroll saws. After a while as they get bigger they tend to give diminishing returns. What you think would cut faster and easier, does not always seem to be the case.

I Like FD blades for fine fret work, puzzles etc, but find that Olson PG blades are more suited for thicker timber. The Mach series does an excellent job.
Other's may of had differing results.
https://woodenteddybear.com/collections/olson-scroll-saw-blades

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I do a lot of compound cutting and  I use a #5.  Flying Dutchman Polar #5 or a Pegas #6 skip tooth is next.

Softer wood I try a Ultra reverse as I like the smoother finish.

For harder woods I find wrapping in box tape helps too.  

The real key is to go slower and not push too hard so the saw dust clears.

 

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For some good discussion on starting to try compound cutting, you may find this old thread from back in 2017 worth a good read. While, it initially mentions creating patterns, shortly after I asked questions in general on compound cutting and several members gave great detailed answers throughout that thread. It was thanks to them and the info provided that I gave it a try.

https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/24171-compound-cutting-wood/

Then, later when I posted my first attempts (in a different thread) I noted I had a bit of a problem when I forgot at first to use the skip tooth blades rather than my reverse teeth I used for most other cuttings I was doing. As I recall, like you, I was getting a lot of chatter and resistance. I asked if someone could explain the “why” and @Bill WIlsongave this information.

   On 12/15/2017 at 11:06 AM,  meflick said: 

 Interesting the difference,  if someone can explain the "why" of the difference I would appreciate knowing it.

“The simplest explanation is that skip tooth blades clear the kerf of sawdust better than reverse tooth blades.  There are deeper gullets between the teeth and generally fewer teeth per inch, so the teeth are spaced further apart.  This helps carry the saw dust away, preventing heat build up and allowing the blade to cut more aggressively.  Also, without reverse teeth on the bottom, the sawdust is more easily evacuated, instead of being trapped within the piece.”

a 2x4 is pretty big for most compound cut patterns. 😉 For some free patterns for compound cutting, and some more info/how to and even a plan for some clamps to use, you can check out Steve Good’s blog here (he has several pages so be sure to scroll through it all at you lesuire (I did a search for “compound cut”)

https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/search?q=“Compound+cut”

 

Edited by meflick
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I will echo the suggestion to work with a smaller blade.  I don't even stock the #12  blades.  A second consideration is the saw speed.  Too slow will result in chatter and too fast will make you feel out of control which can also result in chatter.  Start with a speed control at roughly 1/2 speed, drop down to a #3 blade and work from there. 

I do most of my work with FD Ultra Reverse #1, #3, and #5.  Larger blades are reserved for long mostly straight cuts on the edge of the plaques I like to make.  

The only fatal mistake in learning the scroll saw is fear of making mistakes.  🤪

Good luck!!!!

Bruce

 

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1 hour ago, Scrappile said:

I woke up last night and thought. maybe it is the simple as the old blade in upside down, that we all have experience.

Paul, I have read about folks putting the blades in upside down and thought to myself, I would NEVER do that. But strangely, it just happened the other day. Somehow, the blade twisted in my fingers and waddayaknow, it wouldn't cut worth a darn. LOL.

Edited by OCtoolguy
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