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Cutting Laminated Plywood with a Scroll Saw


bandsawman

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Does anyone have any experience cutting laminated plywood with a scroll saw? If so, which blades do you use? I have an almost endless supply of 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch thick laminated plywood. We have a HUGE cabinet shop in my town and you would not believe what they throw away. I have dumpster dived, with their permission of course, and retreived pieces of the above thicknesses as big as 36 x 36 and 4' x 6". I even got two 5 gallon bucks full of Oak and Popular that were 12" x 4" x 1" that I have made 11 pens sets for Christmas gifts. I can't stand to see that beautiful wood go to waste. Sometimes I come home with a trunk full. Any assistance will be appreciated.

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Thanks guys for the info. I am talking about laminated wood with plastic (I believe) veneer on both sides. I have tried a regular reverse tooth blade but the veneer chips badly. I have ordered some metal cutting blades with 40 teeth PI and will try those. I know from using my jig saw that if I use a metal cutting blade the finished cut is smooth as silk, so why shouldn't it work for a scroll saw blade?

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Have you tried putting down a layer of tape before cutting? The tape acts like a support for the laminate and reduces chipout.

 

Also try making a zero-clearance insert or table. I usually take a piece of plywood the size of the surface of the scroll saw bed, drill a tiny hole where the blade would go, and then using double-stick tape stick it to the bed of the scroll saw. This adds a lot of extra support.

 

You could also use a blade with more teeth per inch. That should help too.

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When you say tiney Travis do you mean about 1/8? I drilled a 1/32 hole in a piece of 3/4 BB and used that with jewlery blades (70tpi) when cutting a copper and 1/4ply sandwich.....well the hole filled up with metal and the blade broke into three pieces....one of which landed up stuck in my forehead....no harm done then....lol

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It doesn't have to be super small. 1/8 would work well. In fact, while you flex the blade, the hole will widen naturally. The idea is to add extra support around the cutting area (more support than a normal bed would provide). I do this especially when cutting really delicate projects.

 

I can see it being a problem if you're cutting metal. Metal would have a tendency to build up, whereas wood is more likely to be removed during the sawing process.

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Hi guys----Reference amazingkevin's post, lately when I go dumpster diving at the local cabinet shop I have been finding exactly what he is talking about. Have found all thicknesses with laminate on one side only as well as both sides. Last week I got a lot more oak pieces and a whole cabinet door out of oak that they had messed up the cut. The masking tape trick as mentioned by Travis works very well. I also use mostly flying ductchman blades with a few Ryobi pinned blades when I am cutting something without inside cuts. This forum has a ton of great information as well as patterns. I am glad I found it and I appreciate everyone's advice. Have a great Holiday Season.

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