Pegas question

[Badgerboy]

I am having challenges with the big black parallelism adjustment knob on my Pegas moving after an hour or so of cutting. The table is flat and level and it passes the standing nickel test for vibration. After I have verified and set upper arm parallelism lock in a blade and start cutting I eventually notice the knob has moved after an hour or so. Parallelism is gone and I need to go back through the process. 

Which nut or bolt needs to be retightened to eliminate this problem?  Thanks for the help  

 

[kmmcrafts]

Common issue with these type of saws. I had the same issue with my excalibur a few years ago. I'm not sure how to search for the topics but there are a few of them out there.. Most people fix it with a simple rubber band and wrap it around in a way to hold it from spinning. 

I took my saw apart and put a little blue colored loc-tite thread locker on the threads and put it back together.. been good for about 3 year or so now.. Here is a link to when I rebuilt my saw and there is a section on July 20th in that topic ( first page of the topic about half way down the page ) where I show pictures of the threaded block and how I put the blue stuff on the threads.. If you choose to go this route to solve the issue.. It's a bit of a job but as I said.. some use a rubber band. 

 

[OCtoolguy]

Mine both do the same thing so I painted a white stripe on the knob and every once in a while I check it. It usually moves and an inch every couple of hours. That small amount doesn't equate to much arm movement. I also cut a wood block that is the correct clearance at both front and back of the arm for a quick check.

[Badgerboy]

2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Common issue with these type of saws. I had the same issue with my excalibur a few years ago. I'm not sure how to search for the topics but there are a few of them out there.. Most people fix it with a simple rubber band and wrap it around in a way to hold it from spinning. 

I took my saw apart and put a little blue colored loc-tite thread locker on the threads and put it back together.. been good for about 3 year or so now.. Here is a link to when I rebuilt my saw and there is a section on July 20th in that topic ( first page of the topic about half way down the page ) where I show pictures of the threaded block and how I put the blue stuff on the threads.. If you choose to go this route to solve the issue.. It's a bit of a job but as I said.. some use a rubber band. 

 

Thanks Kevin!

[Badgerboy]

1 hour ago, OCtoolguy said:

Mine both do the same thing so I painted a white stripe on the knob and every once in a while I check it. It usually moves and an inch every couple of hours. That small amount doesn't equate to much arm movement. I also cut a wood block that is the correct clearance at both front and back of the arm for a quick check.

Thanks, I do have the white mark on the knob. It’s just frustrating as for two years it has taken weeks before I had to readjust now it’s multiple times a day. 

[OCtoolguy]

49 minutes ago, Badgerboy said:

Thanks, I do have the white mark on the knob. It’s just frustrating as for two years it has taken weeks before I had to readjust now it’s multiple times a day. 

Sounds like it's time to fix it. The easy way is to just wrap a heavy rubber band around the shaft just under the knob, twist it a couple of times and then stretch it down to the right side and find something to hook it to. That'll keep it from turning. Not a fix but sort of. The best way of course requires a tear down. Sounds like it has gotten really loose. Strange. You might give Denny a call and see if Pegas has gotten any feedback on the problem and maybe a fix from them. A re-engineered part or something. I doubt they want negative feedback on their saw.

 

[kmmcrafts]

Ray at Seyco told me it happens to all saws at some point. It’s caused when lowering the upper arm it puts a strain on the threads sort of like hammers at them and over several fretwork’s those threads take a beating. He said the fix is actually to change the threaded rod and the square block that it threads into. I just opted to save some money and since I had the blue thread locker on hand to try that. Been a few years and still going good. Mine was really bad too, like it’d turn a quarter turn during cutting, long cuts I’d have to stop and adjust it a couple times sometimes. Was basically useless lol. 

[Joe W.]

interesting and thanks for the post.  I got a Pegas a few months ago and at some point not long after saw a post about putting a piece of tape on the back knob and taping it to the arm to keep the knob from moving.  I've done that and so far, no problem.  No sign of the tape stretching or being pulled loose. 
But I'll keep looking out for what you are describing. 
Overall, very happy with the Pegas thus far - and I've put several hours on it - and look forward to many more.

[kmmcrafts]

I personally think if someone could put a bug into the manufactures ears to coat the threads with blue thread locker.. there probably would never be an issue.. 

I put around 200 hours on my saw before I took it apart for rebuild.. maybe it was 300 ish? anyway.. I had issues with the knob turning by itself within the first 100 ish hours..  Thread locker on the threads and since the rebuild the saw has had 453 more hours added.. no issues at all with that.. IF they did this from the get go I see no reason why they'd do it at all for a weekend hobby type running the saw for many years.. that's just my opinion based on what I did to fix the issues a few years back.. so take that with a grain of salt.. Just feel if it had that on the threads from the beginning.. also feel like the manufacture should and could make the upper arm parallel before they get boxed up.. no reason that I can see as to why this stuff couldn't be set up this far.. yes you may want to move the motor for a blade aggression of your style but no matter the blade aggression the arm is to be parallel for the initial set up. I see no reason to move that arm once it's parallel so what's the purpose of even having the adjustment.. Maybe some weird cutting style that I haven't done yet but I've never had to touch that knob ever other than because it kept moving on its own.. I realize maybe wear and tare might require a slight adjustment after many hours / years of use.. 

[Norm Fengstad]

Blue loc tit on the threads is the cure. I had that problem on my Seyco