Sam777 Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 Hi all, Whenever I scroll I mostly use 3/4" thick wood (Oak, Birch, Walnut). I am sold on the Pegas MGT blades but sometimes I get fuzz in the bottom depending on the wood. Would SKIP blades reduce that issue? Thank you in advance for any advice Sam OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 21 minutes ago, Sam777 said: Hi all, Whenever I scroll I mostly use 3/4" thick wood (Oak, Birch, Walnut). I am sold on the Pegas MGT blades but sometimes I get fuzz in the bottom depending on the wood. Would SKIP blades reduce that issue? Thank you in advance for any advice Sam I'm no expert but the idea of skip tooth blades, as far as I know is just to help clear the dust out of the kerf. The reverse teeth should be doing their job of leaving a clean cut on the underside. JMHO. Since the reverse teeth only go up about 3/4" and you are cutting that thickness you might be missing out on the effect. Try mounting your blades up as high as possible so that you are assured of getting some contact with the reverse teeth. Norm Fengstad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 Might be how your saw is set up too.. depending on what saw you're using. As Ray said, maybe if possible mount the blade up higher in your blade chucks. Some of the Jet saws have a issue where the table sits too high and the reverse teeth on many of them are not being utilized. I find myself doing this quite often on my Excalibur, I mount the blade way to low and then I get a lot of fuzzies etc. on the back side of the project. Can't do that on the Hawk.. as there is only one position to even be able to mount the blade.. something that really annoys me on the Hawk with pegas blades is they are not consistent with length.. some blades in the same bundle will have a thin piece on either end or both ends sometimes and very few blades are always the exact same length. On the Hawk you place the blade in the lower clamp until it bottoms out in the hole, then mount in the top clamp as it comes to the roll pin.. but some blades are too long which is easy to just snip off a small section.. but sometimes they're also too short to even mount in the saw unless I change the whole set up for that one blade, LOL very annoying to me.. I normally now just set those blades aside and use them on the Excalibur.. still frustrating though since you don't know until you already mount it in the lower clamp and then pull the upper arm down to find it's too short, LOL.. Nice sharp blades but sometimes wonder if they're worth the hassle on the Hawk saws.. Wish Pegas could make a uniform length and stick with it like the other companies do.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted October 16, 2022 Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 It's really the nature of sawing, you will end up with some "Fuzzies" on the bottom of a cut. Reverse teeth blades do reduce it considerably, but not entirely. I always run a sander over the reverse and that takes care of everything. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 16, 2022 Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 I was cutting some 3/4" walnut this afternoon and after reading your post, I took notice of how my cuts were coming out and it's true. I was getting some very minor fuzzies too. But, not bad enough that I ever felt there was a problem. After I got done with the cutting I got out my spindle sander and did a bit of shaping and that took care of what fuzzies I had. John B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted October 16, 2022 Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 9 minutes ago, John B said: It's really the nature of sawing, you will end up with some "Fuzzies" on the bottom of a cut. Reverse teeth blades do reduce it considerably, but not entirely. I always run a sander over the reverse and that takes care of everything. What John said. MGT blades are a reverse tooth blade that are designed to limit fuzzies, but will not entirely prevent them. A skip tooth blade will only make fuzzies worse. Stick with the MGT blades. John B, OCtoolguy, Dave Monk and 1 other 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Eicehelberger Posted October 16, 2022 Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 I also get fuzzies on some pieces . I take care of it with a sending mop. I made me one about 5 years ago and it still gets the job done. run the mop slow . I use it on fretwork on 1/4 ply with no breakage. it's a time savor. Bill OCtoolguy and John B 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted October 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 Thank you all for the comment and advice. My saw is Excalibur 16 and I don't pay attention to the position of the blade. I will from now on I will report the fuzz situation when I cut next. Thank again John B, kmmcrafts and OCtoolguy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm Fengstad Posted October 19, 2022 Report Share Posted October 19, 2022 Yep, fuzzies happen when I mount the MGT blades to low. so the bottom reverse teeth are not enetering the wood. John B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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