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Bandsaw


Eplfan2011

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I think I might be in the market for a new band saw! 

I found I like cutting solid wood a lot more than plywood, don't get me wrong there's nothing wrong with plywood but I like the results I get from real wood better. 

I've got quite a bit of nice 3/4 hardwoods in the 6 to 8in range and a absolute load of old barn timbers at my FIL farm which clean up real nice. My old 14 jet is on its last legs, I bought it secondhand as it is, and it's really not up to resawing a whole ton of lumber.

So when Christmas is over I'll start looking ! 

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I really like my Grizzly G0555LX.  I have used it for maple, oak, ebony, etc, and have re-sawed on it many times.  I have some birch logs that I will be cutting down for making bowls, and will be purchasing the riser kit for it.  This is one of two non-USA-Made machines in my shop, and I am fine with that.  The saw just keeps on going, and has no issues doing it.  All bearing guides and runs very quiet.  Smoothest cutting band saw I have ever owned, and I've owned a few.  Of course, the first thing I did before I even turned it on was to put a good blade on it.  The stuck blade was hardly sharp at all, which I expected. 

If you can find it on sale, which it does go on sale often, and you decide on it, snatch it up.  I don't regret mine

G0555LX.thumb.jpg.6971aa6dc5ad9ed5450770eb03b63f70.jpg

Dan

Edited by DRugerH
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I also have the same Grizzly as Dan but the anniversary black color addition, I bought the riser block and resaw fence for it as well.. I think I got it in 2014 or around that time.. no problems with it at all.. I don't do much bandsawing but mainly use it to resaw as needed... so it hasn't really been used a lot.. not commercially like I use a scroll saw type use anyway, LOL

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2 hours ago, DRugerH said:

I really like my Grizzly G0555LX.  I have used it for maple, oak, ebony, etc, and have re-sawed on it many times.  I have some birch logs that I will be cutting down for making bowls, and will be purchasing the riser kit for it.  This is one of two non-USA-Made machines in my shop, and I am fine with that.  The saw just keeps on going, and has no issues doing it.  All bearing guides and runs very quiet.  Smoothest cutting band saw I have ever owned, and I've owned a few.  Of course, the first thing I did before I even turned it on was to put a good blade on it.  The stuck blade was hardly sharp at all, which I expected. 

If you can find it on sale, which it does go on sale often, and you decide on it, snatch it up.  I don't regret mine

G0555LX.thumb.jpg.6971aa6dc5ad9ed5450770eb03b63f70.jpg

Dan

This is exactly what I've been looking at, everyone who has one says the same as you. If I do decide in this one I'll get the riser kit with it.

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The Grizzly is the one I have.  I have had no problems with it that were not operator error.  A band saw us something that I think you should have one for every blade you may use.. I HATE changing blades in a bandsaw.  But I think that is a good saw.  But it is the only one I have had with the except an old Craftsman I inherited from my Dad.  I added a 12 in riser to mine.. Don't do much re-sawing.. Want to try, but am not sure what is the best blade for it.

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I too have a Grizzly band saw and overall I have been very happy with it. I will offer one word of caution. If you need service as I did, there are only two authorized service centers in the country. One is in Missouri and the other is in Bellingham, WA. Technical support is very friendly and will do everything possible to help solve problems over the phone. However if service is needed your options are limited. I ended up having to drive my saw to the Washington location a round trip distance of over 1200 miles. That was still cheaper than trying to ship a 200 lb. saw. they fixed the problem for a reasonable price and it's worked great since. No other complaints.

Jim 

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1 minute ago, browders said:

I too have a Grizzly band saw and overall I have been very happy with it. I will offer one word of caution. If you need service as I did, there are only two authorized service centers in the country. One is in Missouri and the other is in Bellingham, WA. Technical support is very friendly and will do everything possible to help solve problems over the phone. However if service is needed your options are limited. I ended up having to drive my saw to the Washington location a round trip distance of over 1200 miles. That was still cheaper than trying to ship a 200 lb. saw. they fixed the problem for a reasonable price and it's worked great since. No other complaints.

Jim 

Jim I'm only about 3 hrs away from the Missouri one.

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I do not know what it is about your saw that you do not like, but you might try a few upgrades and tune it up and you might be able to bring it close to the performance of a new saw for a lot less money.  Some thoughts are new tires (polyurethane), new blade blocks or replace with ball bearing guides, new bearings in wheels, a more powerful motor, etc For resawing of wood wider than  6 inches, a riser block or a taller throat is necessary.  Of course buying new equipment is always good. For resawing Just be sure that the build of the new saw is heavier that the old one.

 

Edited by Phil Royer
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1 hour ago, Phil Royer said:

I do not know what it is about your saw that you do not like, but you might try a few upgrades and tune it up and you might be able to bring it close to the performance of a new saw for a lot less money.  Some thoughts are new tires (polyurethane), new blade blocks or replace with ball bearing guides, new bearings in wheels, a more powerful motor, etc For resawing of wood wider than  6 inches, a riser block or a taller throat is necessary.  Of course buying new equipment is always good. For resawing Just be sure that the build of the new saw is heavier that the old one.

 

 

Thanks Phil,

It's not that I don't like it but it's a bit like me old and wore out. As I said I bought it used over 10 years ago, it had been rode hard and put away wet.

 I upgraded it then but if I was to keep it now it would need a total rebuild bearings have play in them, one wheel has a slight wobble and the motors tired.  It's done it's duty and it's time for a new one, I was going to replace it last year....... besides who doesn't like a new Toy ! 🤣🤣🤣

Edited by Eplfan2011
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5 hours ago, DRugerH said:

I really like my Grizzly G0555LX.  I have used it for maple, oak, ebony, etc, and have re-sawed on it many times.  I have some birch logs that I will be cutting down for making bowls, and will be purchasing the riser kit for it.  This is one of two non-USA-Made machines in my shop, and I am fine with that.  The saw just keeps on going, and has no issues doing it.  All bearing guides and runs very quiet.  Smoothest cutting band saw I have ever owned, and I've owned a few.  Of course, the first thing I did before I even turned it on was to put a good blade on it.  The stuck blade was hardly sharp at all, which I expected. 

If you can find it on sale, which it does go on sale often, and you decide on it, snatch it up.  I don't regret mine

G0555LX.thumb.jpg.6971aa6dc5ad9ed5450770eb03b63f70.jpg

Dan

I have the Shopfox 1706. Identical to yours, same stamping, same fence setup etc.  Different color scheme and name plate.  I did add a 6” riser to it.  I have it about ten years. It does what it’s supposed to do.  I don’t think the motor is big enough after adding the riser. Plus, if I’m not mistaken, with this unit, you can only use 1/2” blades. 
One caveat, is I’ve never tried a carbide blade.  

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11 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Don't do much re-sawing.. Want to try, but am not sure what is the best blade for it.

Paul, I’ve done a bit of sawing over the years using an old Delta Milwaukee 14” that has to be close to 70 years old. They didn’t power them back then like they do now so I can’t bull my way through a cut. What I have found out is that using the right blade makes all the difference.  I now use Highland Woodworking’s "Wood Slicer" resaw blade.  I’ve cut even the hardest of woods with ease and with the right technique I have very little sanding to do. A couple passes through my thickness sander and it’s ready to go.  Here’s their info on it if you’re interested 

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Welcome+to+the+Highland+Woodworking+Community&utm_campaign=HTML+welcome+email+-+0320

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18 hours ago, Scrappile said:

A band saw us something that I think you should have one for every blade you may use.. I HATE changing blades in a bandsaw. 

I agree; I have two Shopsmith bandsaws, one saw setup for curves and the other for resawing. Both saws have different blade guides installed as well.

 

7 hours ago, Millwab said:

using the right blade makes all the difference

True for any saw.

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I second the wood slicer blades.. Timber Wolf blades from P.S. Woods was pretty good blades too but buying those Olsen blades locally was a total mistake for me, LOL

Also plan on throwing away the blade the saw comes with.. mine wouldn't even burn through.. 😂 Had to double check to see if it was on backwards..

 

Edited by kmmcrafts
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7 hours ago, Millwab said:

Paul, I’ve done a bit of sawing over the years using an old Delta Milwaukee 14” that has to be close to 70 years old. They didn’t power them back then like they do now so I can’t bull my way through a cut. What I have found out is that using the right blade makes all the difference.  I now use Highland Woodworking’s "Wood Slicer" resaw blade.  I’ve cut even the hardest of woods with ease and with the right technique I have very little sanding to do. A couple passes through my thickness sander and it’s ready to go.  Here’s their info on it if you’re interested 

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Welcome+to+the+Highland+Woodworking+Community&utm_campaign=HTML+welcome+email+-+0320

I have a small Rikon 324TG and use it mainly for resawing.  I have bought numerous brands of blades including two different high dollar carbide blades.   I was very disappointed on the quality of cut I was getting until I tried a 1/2" wood slicer. I had been 3/4" blades but I don't think I could get enough tension on them.   

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1 hour ago, BadBob said:

I agree; I have two Shopsmith bandsaws, one saw setup for curves and the other for resawing. Both saws have different blade guides installed as well.

 

Same here, Bob. Carter guides on both. When I first used those guides I was blown away by the improvement in accuracy. I no longer need to account for drift when resawing. Of course a good blade goes a long way in that regard. 

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On 11/18/2022 at 7:34 AM, Gene Howe said:

Same here, Bob. Carter guides on both. When I first used those guides I was blown away by the improvement in accuracy. I no longer need to account for drift when resawing. Of course a good blade goes a long way in that regard. 

I have the Carter Stabilizer on one saw and the Carter Guides on the other. The stabilizer doesn't work the same on a Shopsmith bandsaw as it does on other band saws but it does work. I cut this chicken from a piece of 2x4.

1608633266_20210102142807ToymakerShopChickenRoosterCarterGuide2x4.thumb.jpg.c874f49710cc09b5c7d3ce7c725fc8dc.jpg

1663373646_20210102143747ToymakersShopChickenRoosterCarterGuide2x4.thumb.jpg.77bec8360c65ec7b8ce8363b415ef8c4.jpg

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5 hours ago, BadBob said:

I have the Carter Stabilizer on one saw and the Carter Guides on the other. The stabilizer doesn't work the same on a Shopsmith bandsaw as it does on other band saws but it does work. I cut this chicken from a piece of 2x4.

1608633266_20210102142807ToymakerShopChickenRoosterCarterGuide2x4.thumb.jpg.c874f49710cc09b5c7d3ce7c725fc8dc.jpg

 

What blade are you using for tight turns like those?

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